Yeah - I know.Diode? Hence the arrow-line symbol?
I kinda freaked out & rationality went out of the window.
I got a test replacement in just now.. so will reinstall the fly tomorrow & share the result.
Yeah - I know.Diode? Hence the arrow-line symbol?
Can you confirm that is a 5.6V 200mA schottky or something else?Yeah - I know.
I kinda freaked out & rationality went out of the window.
I got a test replacement in just now.. so will reinstall the fly tomorrow & share the result.
I'd still try to harvest chips\components from itHello yes hi I accidentally dropped my Switch through a wood chipper plz revive it
Getting off topic but I'll show ya how i killed the slims....I'd still try to harvest chips\components from it
Lol, like clients are ever that honest anyway XD
Southern Cali clients be like:
*Drops bag on counter* "Fix it."
True story actually, I was 'elbow deep' into a solder job and a customer did ^that w\ a controller. I will never work a front counter again XD
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@floxcap @Gosnik I put the "?" marks cause I was honestly unsure. I see now it could've been read dick-ish.
I have a Lite board I can check. Besides trying to see the marks under a scope, is there a way to identify what it is?
Getting off topic but I'll show ya how i killed the slims....
Compared to my oled XD
Getting off topic but I'll show ya how i killed the slims....
Compared to my oled XD
Bro u can still touch it there no problem as long as u dont grind on it everything is fine XdMy first post-APU grinding Switch OLED. Works like a charm, and glitches in less than a second. boots into hekate.
I used the shield as GND. Won't be touching anything in the APU other than the two caps. Lesson roughly learned.
Yep, i guess they did. Just ordered 3pcs but it will take some time until they arrive.@QuiTim I just noticed that RP2040-Tiny is selling on aliexpress again. Did Waveshare fix the resistor problem already?
I took mine off because I thought I saw a bridge from the nearby cap and it literally slid off my multi-meter probe. So I'm replacing this now but I'm not sure what it is exactly. 8A!? Fuse maybe!? Either way, taking it off and booting up now has a black screen oppose to a blue screen. Who knows might be the culprit because blue screen is, in my experience, to do with shorts (amongst other problems). Going to find this component (that was probably damaged) and then check. If normal boot works again then that LITE ground point (on the cap) is too risky (for me anyways) and will just reinstall RP2040 with a new ground point (like on top of USB-C charging point or something). Any clues as to what this component is anyone!?I Think - what's been pointed out to me - that it is probably a diode.
I've done quite a bit of searching and haven't found any direct information on it yet.
There seems to be a few places around that are selling "switch lite diode".
I suspect though that it might be a schottky diode of some value - hopefully that means that the value doesn't matter too much - so I don't have one on hand that will fit - but I'm going to test my theory (hopefully) tonight with an ugly hack:
(Schottky 2A 30V 380pF - is all I have on hand).View attachment 374682
Why not just mask off areas you don't want solder on?I took mine off because I thought I saw a bridge from the nearby cap and it literally slid off my multi-meter probe. So I'm replacing this now but I'm not sure what it is exactly. 8A!? Fuse maybe!? Either way, taking it off and booting up now has a black screen oppose to a blue screen. Who knows might be the culprit because blue screen is, in my experience, to do with shorts (amongst other problems). Going to find this component (that was probably damaged) and then check. If normal boot works again then that LITE ground point (on the cap) is too risky (for me anyways) and will just reinstall RP2040 with a new ground point (like on top of USB-C charging point or something). Any clues as to what this component is anyone!?
I always mask all my points once I check the values in continuity mode but whats the difference in the beep from the dmm of a short or ground!? And just looking back at my photos, i did use a blob on that Cap. Maybe the diode/fuse next to it is more sensitive than I thought.Why not just mask off areas you don't want solder on?
View attachment 374730
No no, I put that kapton tape down before soldering, THEN solder, and removed the kapton tape.I always mask all my points once I check the values in continuity mode but whats the difference in the beep from the dmm of a short or ground!? And just looking back at my photos, i did use a blob on that Cap. Maybe the diode/fuse next to it is more sensitive than I thought.
Thanks but it's tough getting solder into that point, and psychologically I just don't want to touch it anymore. this is how I do it now and it works great. ThanksBro u can still touch it there no problem as long as u dont grind on it everything is fine Xd
but congrats
I took mine off because I thought I saw a bridge from the nearby cap and it literally slid off my multi-meter probe. So I'm replacing this now but I'm not sure what it is exactly. 8A!? Fuse maybe!? Either way, taking it off and booting up now has a black screen oppose to a blue screen. Who knows might be the culprit because blue screen is, in my experience, to do with shorts (amongst other problems). Going to find this component (that was probably damaged) and then check. If normal boot works again then that LITE ground point (on the cap) is too risky (for me anyways) and will just reinstall RP2040 with a new ground point (like on top of USB-C charging point or something). Any clues as to what this component is anyone!?
I did do that with the CPU flex cable (to solder the middle part of the ribbon pins), on the v2 i did a while back but its a good shout nontheless to kapton it off on sensitive points but man....if this doesn't work....then im just selling the damned thing for spares/repairs and trying again with a new ground point....just to see if it was me/my soldering iron or that point? So many questions....I know.....poooooooooNo no, I put that kapton tape down before soldering, THEN solder, and removed the kapton tape.
Yes. He went on and on about how good his grinder was and that he "can't work without it" So Logically I thought it was the solution to any tough solder point.@FreeLander did you grind because you saw a 'Tuber do it?
I just watched Northridge Fix grind a smart vacuum board to expose traces and turned the video off. Great, now we've got NF showing people 'look, grinding ez' and TronixFix paying too much for broken systems thus driving up market prices (among other cringe, the PERFECT amount...).
every little helps