Picofly AIO Thread

LogicalMadness

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Hello yes hi I accidentally dropped my Switch through a wood chipper plz revive it
I'd still try to harvest chips\components from it ;)

Lol, like clients are ever that honest anyway XD

Southern Cali clients be like:
*Drops bag on counter* "Fix it."

True story actually, I was 'elbow deep' into a solder job and a customer did ^that w\ a controller. I will never work a front counter again XD
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@floxcap @Gosnik I put the "?" marks cause I was honestly unsure. I see now it could've been read dick-ish.

I have a Lite board I can check. Besides trying to see the marks under a scope, is there a way to identify what it is?
 
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Adran_Marit

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I'd still try to harvest chips\components from it ;)

Lol, like clients are ever that honest anyway XD

Southern Cali clients be like:
*Drops bag on counter* "Fix it."

True story actually, I was 'elbow deep' into a solder job and a customer did ^that w\ a controller. I will never work a front counter again XD
Post automatically merged:

@floxcap @Gosnik I put the "?" marks cause I was honestly unsure. I see now it could've been read dick-ish.

I have a Lite board I can check. Besides trying to see the marks under a scope, is there a way to identify what it is?
Getting off topic but I'll show ya how i killed the slims....

Compared to my oled XD
 

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Dee87

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My first post-APU grinding Switch OLED. Works like a charm, and glitches in less than a second. boots into hekate.
I used the shield as GND. Won't be touching anything in the APU other than the two caps. Lesson roughly learned.
Bro u can still touch it there no problem as long as u dont grind on it everything is fine Xd

but congrats
 

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LogicalMadness

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@FreeLander did you grind because you saw a 'Tuber do it?

I just watched Northridge Fix grind a smart vacuum board to expose traces and turned the video off. Great, now we've got NF showing people 'look, grinding ez' and TronixFix paying too much for broken systems thus driving up market prices (among other cringe, the PERFECT amount...).
 
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Takezo-San

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I Think - what's been pointed out to me - that it is probably a diode.

I've done quite a bit of searching and haven't found any direct information on it yet.
There seems to be a few places around that are selling "switch lite diode".

I suspect though that it might be a schottky diode of some value - hopefully that means that the value doesn't matter too much - so I don't have one on hand that will fit - but I'm going to test my theory (hopefully) tonight with an ugly hack:
(Schottky 2A 30V 380pF - is all I have on hand).View attachment 374682
I took mine off because I thought I saw a bridge from the nearby cap and it literally slid off my multi-meter probe. So I'm replacing this now but I'm not sure what it is exactly. 8A!? Fuse maybe!? Either way, taking it off and booting up now has a black screen oppose to a blue screen. Who knows might be the culprit because blue screen is, in my experience, to do with shorts (amongst other problems). Going to find this component (that was probably damaged) and then check. If normal boot works again then that LITE ground point (on the cap) is too risky (for me anyways) and will just reinstall RP2040 with a new ground point (like on top of USB-C charging point or something). Any clues as to what this component is anyone!?
 

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lightninjay

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I took mine off because I thought I saw a bridge from the nearby cap and it literally slid off my multi-meter probe. So I'm replacing this now but I'm not sure what it is exactly. 8A!? Fuse maybe!? Either way, taking it off and booting up now has a black screen oppose to a blue screen. Who knows might be the culprit because blue screen is, in my experience, to do with shorts (amongst other problems). Going to find this component (that was probably damaged) and then check. If normal boot works again then that LITE ground point (on the cap) is too risky (for me anyways) and will just reinstall RP2040 with a new ground point (like on top of USB-C charging point or something). Any clues as to what this component is anyone!?
Why not just mask off areas you don't want solder on?
IMG_20230415_010421.jpg
 
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Takezo-San

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Why not just mask off areas you don't want solder on?
View attachment 374730
I always mask all my points once I check the values in continuity mode but whats the difference in the beep from the dmm of a short or ground!? And just looking back at my photos, i did use a blob on that Cap. Maybe the diode/fuse next to it is more sensitive than I thought.
 

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lightninjay

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I always mask all my points once I check the values in continuity mode but whats the difference in the beep from the dmm of a short or ground!? And just looking back at my photos, i did use a blob on that Cap. Maybe the diode/fuse next to it is more sensitive than I thought.
No no, I put that kapton tape down before soldering, THEN solder, and removed the kapton tape.
 

FreeLander

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Bro u can still touch it there no problem as long as u dont grind on it everything is fine Xd

but congrats
Thanks but it's tough getting solder into that point, and psychologically I just don't want to touch it anymore. this is how I do it now and it works great. Thanks
 

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LogicalMadness

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I took mine off because I thought I saw a bridge from the nearby cap and it literally slid off my multi-meter probe. So I'm replacing this now but I'm not sure what it is exactly. 8A!? Fuse maybe!? Either way, taking it off and booting up now has a black screen oppose to a blue screen. Who knows might be the culprit because blue screen is, in my experience, to do with shorts (amongst other problems). Going to find this component (that was probably damaged) and then check. If normal boot works again then that LITE ground point (on the cap) is too risky (for me anyways) and will just reinstall RP2040 with a new ground point (like on top of USB-C charging point or something). Any clues as to what this component is anyone!?

Here's what mine looks like:
IMG20230529103529.jpg


Doubt it'll help though :\
 

Takezo-San

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No no, I put that kapton tape down before soldering, THEN solder, and removed the kapton tape.
I did do that with the CPU flex cable (to solder the middle part of the ribbon pins), on the v2 i did a while back but its a good shout nontheless to kapton it off on sensitive points but man....if this doesn't work....then im just selling the damned thing for spares/repairs and trying again with a new ground point....just to see if it was me/my soldering iron or that point? So many questions....I know.....pooooooooo
 

FreeLander

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@FreeLander did you grind because you saw a 'Tuber do it?

I just watched Northridge Fix grind a smart vacuum board to expose traces and turned the video off. Great, now we've got NF showing people 'look, grinding ez' and TronixFix paying too much for broken systems thus driving up market prices (among other cringe, the PERFECT amount...).
Yes. He went on and on about how good his grinder was and that he "can't work without it" So Logically I thought it was the solution to any tough solder point.
 

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