Picofly issues on Switch Lite

rdlf4

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I soldered a Picofly (RP-2040) onto my Switch Lite board. When the process was done, I was excited to power on the device and see the "No sd" screen, which didn't happen and my Switch Lite was booting straight to OFW instead. I then tested both ends from every single cable for continuity. I found that DAT0 somehow wasn't firmly soldered to the resistor. Fixed that. And then it worked and the screen of a Raspberry pi with wings showed up. I was happy but that was not the end of multiple troubles to come.

Picofly Firmware v2.61 was flashed to the RP-2040.
To get started I was told to follow this guide, which provided me with all the folders, payloads & files: - it features HATS, or (H)ekate + (A)tmosphere + (T)infoil + (S)uper. I got it extracted to my microSD card, which is formatted in FAT32 (because I saw a video from ModzvilleUSA who mentioned it needs to be in this format, not exfat. It's a 512GB microsd card).

First order of business was to set up EmuMMC as and SD partition.
All of the content from HATS.zip, which they claim it's "always the latest" on their Github was extracted to the root of my 512 MicroSD card.

ss01.png


Upon powering on my Switch Lite, I was greeted by a Hekate bootloader, which then led me to hekate v6.0.4.
Partitioning went smoothly but the good news stop here. Next, I created "SD Partition emuMMC", which finished successfully but popped up a warning after completing the process letting me know my eMMC is initialized in slower mode.

ss02.jpeg


This is my second microSD card I'm attempting this with. It was the same deal with the first one, which was a 256GB one. Anyway, I did as it suggested and went to Console info > eMMC to show you what it has to say about it:

ss03.jpg


At this point, I have been locked out of my OFW because upon launching it, I get red and white text on black background.

ss04.jpg


But curiously, launching EmuMMC gets me to the Atmosphere logo, which then boots the system correctly and I get to the games screen. Some games are there but they aren't installed so trying to download them will always result in the 2137-8058 error code.
I tried getting Tinfoil to work, which it does but right outta the gate it says it failed to read from BOOT0.

So now I can't use my OFW, I can't launch or download the games I own and Tinfoil won't be able to write anything to my sdcard or read anything from BOOT0.
Someone on a discord server told me about the unlock file, but I don't know what it has to do with anything. There is a .BIN and .UF2 version with the same name. I think the uf2 version is supposed to be used via USB flashing but not sure about the BIN one. He mentioned I need the picofly toolbox to flash that without having to rework the USB-C port and pointed me to this file https://github.com/Ansem-SoD/Picofly/blob/main/Firmwares/picofly_toolbox_0.2.bin - so I placed it in /sdcardroot/bootloader/payloads but launching it from hekate breakes it and I'm left with a screen that shows nothing. I asked him about that but got no more answer. I also found another picofly firmware v2.72 from the picofly toolbox page.

I don't know what to do. Should I flash the unlock file? (Remember I'm still on v2.61) If so, how do I do that without having to rework the usb-c port? picofly toolbox isn't working for me.
What about firmware v2.72? Should I update to that version? I think it's possible to do it from the handheld because there is an "update.bin" file on https://github.com/Ansem-SoD/Picofly/tree/main/Firmwares
I was told to keep this file at the root of the card and then get to it via picofly toolbox but it's broken..
What about fusee? This thread mentions a guy having problems launching OFW, same deal as mine, then someone tells him to update fusee. What is fusee after all?

I'm sorry for the long post.
 

hartleyshc

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Dont use video guides. Don't use "packs"

The reason to not use them is the same for both. They're both outdated.

Go to the actual atmosphere, hekate, and whatever else github and get the latest versions.



You're running 16.0.3 and your software is outdated, at this point the HATS pack is already 2 releases behind atmosphere, and this software needs to be updated every time you update your official firmware.
 
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CMDreamer

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The biggest mistake many users make is following "video guides". In the end they will come here and ask for help because "something went wrong", instead of searching for a real guide provided by one of the many users here willing to help. Video makers on YT don't care about if you successfully modded or not your console, they only care about getting views, period.

So then, search here for some thread with the same problem as yours, because believe me, you're not the only one.
 
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rdlf4

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@rdlf4 have you fixed the issue?
Yes, I have. It was about the cables I soldered. Look at the pic. Somehow the end of these two (CMD & CLK) were touching; As soon as I got that fixed, I then managed to get to write data and the "your emmc is initialized in slower mode" error message was no more.
Here's how it was before:
short.png


And for those who're wondering, Yes, I did cut off the cable coming from the cartridge slot and kept the portion of the headphone jack, it works normally. I installed the Picofly board onto the cartridge's spot because I wanted to #1) keep the USB-C port, #2) hunting for cartridges on the switch is a complete waste of time and #3) I also wanted to keep the "heat spreader" making contact with the heatsink. At the end of the day it's a low-end NVIDIA product, and those love to go hot so let's not give it any reason for that to happen.
 

izy

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Yes, I have. It was about the cables I soldered. Look at the pic. Somehow the end of these two (CMD & CLK) were touching; As soon as I got that fixed, I then managed to get to write data and the "your emmc is initialized in slower mode" error message was no more.
Here's how it was before: View attachment 384518

And for those who're wondering, Yes, I did cut off the cable coming from the cartridge slot and kept the portion of the headphone jack, it works normally. I installed the Picofly board onto the cartridge's spot because I wanted to #1) keep the USB-C port, #2) hunting for cartridges on the switch is a complete waste of time and #3) I also wanted to keep the "heat spreader" making contact with the heatsink. At the end of the day it's a low-end NVIDIA product, and those love to go hot so let's not give it any reason for that to happen.
emmm hate to brake it too you

the metal plating shielding doesnt any heat dissipation, its just an efi shield

also if you wanted better thermals you would remove the copper sticker and have the heatsink directly on the cpu die.

also the mariko chip in the lite/v2 oled runs much cooler than the stock v1 switch in comparison .

and you could either just cut the metal shielding with scissors to fit the pico or at least installed the picofly rotated to access the usb c port via the cartridge slot
 

Guyton100

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emmm hate to brake it too you

the metal plating shielding doesnt any heat dissipation, its just an efi shield

also if you wanted better thermals you would remove the copper sticker and have the heatsink directly on the cpu die.

also the mariko chip in the lite/v2 oled runs much cooler than the stock v1 switch in comparison .

and you could either just cut the metal shielding with scissors to fit the pico or at least installed the picofly rotated to access the usb c port via the cartridge slot
I am new to this community so pardon if my question is stupid. Can I really remove the game cartridge reader to install Pico fly if I never Want to use cartridge?
can have you came across something like this?
 

izy

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I am new to this community so pardon if my question is stupid. Can I really remove the game cartridge reader to install Pico fly if I never Want to use cartridge?
can have you came across something like this?
yes you can he literally did it above in this thread, smart of him also hutting the flex and keeping only the headphone jack
 

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