Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

abal1000x

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==* CPU always reach BCT check (no glitch reaction, check mosfet)
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10160687
Also in lite, i remember facing this problem.
You could try to reset while on joycon, if its work, then you need sda/scl or change your mosfet.
Post automatically merged:

Yes in oled.

I use flex cable, and double check it. Its not mosfet.
And my instinct tell me its the dat0 adapter, since i experiment on it.
And its really is the dat0 adapter.
Sorry @Takezo-San i think this is wrong.
Maybe i forgot, i try to find my post, but not found anything like that on dat0. Maybe my memory trick me or i just simply forgot.
 
Last edited by abal1000x,

BlueBeans

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==* CPU always reach BCT check (no glitch reaction, check mosfet)
I followed this in the directions and it actually ended up working.
 

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Mr Skinner

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Led code: * = *Exists?

In summary: I turn on the OLED, long blinks blue, blinks fast yellow, long blink yellow and at the end fast blink yellow.

After repeating the cycle twice, the rp2040 does not turn on. Maybe a faulty pico?

Edit: attached video.
 

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jkyoho

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Hello! I managed to replace the pico with a new one so I can use the latest v2.74 and now I can see the error clearly!! It's ==* which means CPU always reach BCT check (no glitch reaction, check mosfet). I desoldered and re-soldered the two MOSFETs multiple times and replaced them just in case they were bad, but I keep getting the same error and then the Switch boots normally, so idk what to check.


Here I attach photos of my setup, sorry if it looks a bit messy, I can guarantee that is well insulated and the MOSFETs seem well soldered (even if it's not clear in the images).
what is the component you put between drain and source at the mosfet for?
 

Takezo-San

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Led code: * = *Exists?

In summary: I turn on the OLED, long blinks blue, blinks fast yellow, long blink yellow and at the end fast blink yellow.

After repeating the cycle twice, the rp2040 does not turn on. Maybe a faulty pico?
*=* No eMMC block 0 read (eMMC init failure?)
 

mlucianoeze

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Try to check the dat0, maybe its SC with others.
In Oled i experience the same.

You might try to increase the resistor of CMD/CLK/Dat0 to around 100ohm. Usually by add another 47ohm.
I can try increasing the resistors, I don't see any SC. I'll try it tomorrow
Post automatically merged:

Just search in here theres lot of successfull mosfet alt.

This is my note (from message post in this thread):

AON7400A
Not Work/ Not Strong Enough to Glitch
It give false positive so cannot work reliably, one unit returned from customer with systomp can only boot to stock.

AON6414A
Not Work/ Not Strong Enough to Glitch

AON S36312
Works, Reliable But large package 5x6, Single Mosfet Install

AON 6512
Works, Reliable But large package 5x6, Single Mosfet Install

AON 6792
Works, Reliable But large package 5x6, Single Mosfet Install

FDMC 7672
Works, Reliable, Perfect 3x3 package, Single Mosfet Install
Good to know!! If I ever give up with this one, I'll definitely take a look on these.
 

mlucianoeze

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Buy bigger mosfet 5x6 mm package should be easy enough.
I hope, I'll try a bit more with the one I have and if I give up I'll buy a bigger one.

Also buy Wire Wrapping, you use all enamel and with that quality of soldering there is a high chance of cold joint in those point.
Yes, only using enamel for now, thought it would be best to avoid big chonky cables, and I couldn't find smaller alternatives in my country (for now at least).

also please isolate Dat0 point from ground thats not safe at all.
Use cable jumper to isolate it.
Yes, I'd never keep it near ground, if you can see there's some kapton tape below the resistor, maybe it's hard to notice but it's safe.
 

cgtchy0412

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perfect space to stay picofly does not hinder anything in future maintenance^_^
Considering future maintenance then it isnt perfect as you loose usb port dan boot button, otherwhise perfect, almost as you need to line up the wiring for perfect score, and that was still overlapping.
 

mlucianoeze

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what is the component you put between drain and source at the mosfet for?
Those are the original caps on the APU, I took them off a few weeks ago when my Switch didn't boot thinking they were bad, but it was just a bad install, when removed everything it worked just fine. I bought some new ones and put them there (they're to big to put them back on the APU) and I thought they would fit nice near the MOSFETs, it's the same when it comes to the connections themselves.
 

Mr Skinner

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Not until you post a full image of your job. But most likely solder joints.
Thx takezo-san for the help, in any case I'll wait for a new rp2040 to extend the tests, I believe this one really got damaged. I had the same error with another switch using this pico, and I think it was damaged. If not, I'll return.
Try to check the wiring, recently had this code when i reversed clk rst point.. hahaha.
Had reversed 3.3v Ground also.. result BSOD, nothing smoke though.:rofl2:
Damn mate, you made me run to check the order of the wires and luckily, I didn't make that mistake! hahaha

In any case, I don't seem to have reversed any wires, I think this pico died, I had the same problem with another oled using this 2040, which didn't show any change with another sealed one I used.

And just out of curiosity, has your BSOD reversed? Did you fix it? or game over for your switch?
 
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