Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

abal1000x

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I actually am currently experiencing this with one of my Nephew's switch lites that I recently modded. The last few days both nephew's switch lites have been glitching and booting to CFW fine (albeit a bit slower than I might like) but they were also my first consoles to have XIAO 2040's in them. One still seems to be fine, but the other boots straight to OFW, as if there is no glitch occurring.

Both are on 2.73 firmware, and after letting it sit for a while (read as several hours) I tried turning it on and got it to glitch successfully one time. Turned it off, then back on again and it booted to OFW.

I plan to swap out the XIAO 2040 with a Waveshare 2040-tiny once it comes on Tuesday, till then, I guess the XIAO might be failing?
My first attempt using zero also like that. Its heat whenever, the switch on heat, the glitch off. After cool down its running fine again.
 
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HackMan37

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I see that to restore the nand i need the prod.keys, but i cant get into lockpick_rcm, there's another way to do it?

i only get the ums mode, i already backup the rawnand.
 

jmmc

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I actually am currently experiencing this with one of my Nephew's switch lites that I recently modded. The last few days both nephew's switch lites have been glitching and booting to CFW fine (albeit a bit slower than I might like) but they were also my first consoles to have XIAO 2040's in them. One still seems to be fine, but the other boots straight to OFW, as if there is no glitch occurring.

Both are on 2.73 firmware, and after letting it sit for a while (read as several hours) I tried turning it on and got it to glitch successfully one time. Turned it off, then back on again and it booted to OFW.

I plan to swap out the XIAO 2040 with a Waveshare 2040-tiny once it comes on Tuesday, till then, I guess the XIAO might be failing?
2040-tiny points are the same as zero? Excepting included resistors if they are corrected in new batch, right?
 

cicci084

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My first attempt using zero also like that. Its heat whenever, the switch on heat, the glitch off. After cool down its running fine again.
I will check tomorrow and update you thanks for now
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This is one of my double mosfet installs. What are the chances both gates aren't closing?
I will check tomorrow and update you thanks for now
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I would not bet on it, I mean what are the chances of Xiao failing while doing almost nothing for most of the time..
Could it be that the mosfet gate isn't closing?
Does Xiao give same set of error codes (never had one so I don't know)?
At least it's not bsod :D
I will check tomorrow and update you thanks for now
 

lightninjay

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2040-tiny points are the same as zero? Excepting included resistors if they are corrected in new batch, right?
You tell me...
1685316820865.png
1685316830687.png
 

Xoloth

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u need to heat it up long enough so it sticks to the ground apu ;-)
i tried heating it up for long enough but then i thought if i heat it up for that long it might damage the solder balls underneath and soldering ground to the shield resulted same.
 

QuiTim

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i tried heating it up for long enough but then i thought if i heat it up for that long it might damage the solder balls underneath and soldering ground to the shield resulted same.
Good flux + 0.2mm iron at 380°/400° for 2-3 seconds max should work every time
*Edit: This is very important, always go for "high heat-short time" instead of "low heat-long time" when you solder on sensitive components.
 

SylverReZ

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I set my soldering iron to 275C so i wont rip the pads. Next time i will try that method.
I use my iron at 300C to do my mods. Best to use a small iron tip, some good solder and a iron. I'm using a Quicko soldering station.
 

QuiTim

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I set my soldering iron to 275C so i wont rip the pads. Next time i will try that method.
Just to be clear 380°/400° just for that stubborn point on APU. For everything else 350° should be more than enough (especially if you are using lead solder alloy)
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Oh man, am I the bad guy here, defaulting to 380?
Hahaha I guess you are one step ahead, me and @abal1000x are getting there, 5° at a time :D
 
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lightninjay

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Just to be clear 380°/400° just for that stubborn point on APU. For everything else 350° should be more than enough (especially if you are using lead solder alloy)
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Hahaha I guess you are one step ahead, me and @abal1000x are getting there, 5° at a time :D
Nah, I'm just some hick with a hot piece of iron in his living room torturing electronics.
 
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Takezo-San

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ok so i found this big fat B*****d shorting out but im not sure if replacement of this would be wise because maybe the chip next to it is bad and i might be wasting time replacing the cap (too which i have no idea what the value is anyway)? What is that chip responsible for? BTW, seems to be the only short on this 'short' hunt...get it....short....haha
 

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QuiTim

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ok so i found this big fat B*****d shorting out but im not sure if replacement of this would be wise because maybe the chip next to it is bad and i might be wasting time replacing the cap (too which i have no idea what the value is anyway)? What is that chip responsible for? BTW, seems to be the only short on this 'short' hunt...get it....short....haha
Thats an inductor, it is supposed to be shorted i think (if we are talking about the circled one)
 

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