Picofly AIO Thread

FreeLander · May 28, 2023

MegaDeKay said:
A good tip won't help you if the iron itself is putting a high voltage out of the main body of the iron. The tip will conduct that voltage to whatever you are working on. We had to throw away a lot of our old irons at work some time ago because they were not ESD safe.

I suppose the other possibility is that you've made the same mistake on all the units with the problem? Like getting mixed up and soldering to DAT1 instead of DAT0? Triple check all the connections you've made to the pictures in the guide to make sure they are all to the correct points.

I took a deep moment while reading your comment, and I remembered something that I always do when installing MOSFETs that I saw nobody does.

I GRIND , with a grinding pen , the ground point on the APU to put solder on it. Sometimes I'd grind a bit too much. Could this be the reason?

I'm talking about the point in the arrow.
@Dee87 , @deep , @rehius I'd appreciate your opinion on this.

Dee87 · May 28, 2023

FreeLander said:
I took a deep moment while reading your comment, and I remembered something that I always do when installing MOSFETs that I saw nobody does.

I GRIND , with a grinding pen , the ground point on the APU to put solder on it. Sometimes I'd grind a bit too much. Could this be the reason?

I'm talking about the point in the arrow.
@Dee87 , @deep , @rehius I'd appreciate your opinion on this.

NEVER GRIND ON THE APU

just heat it up till it sticks maybe scratch a bit but NEVER GRIND THERE

MegaDeKay · May 28, 2023

FreeLander said:
I GRIND , with a grinding pen , the ground point on the APU to put solder on it. Sometimes I'd grind a bit too much. Could this be the reason?

And you didn't think to mention this before??? If @Dee87 says never do this, then never do this.

lightninjay · May 28, 2023

FreeLander said:
I took a deep moment while reading your comment, and I remembered something that I always do when installing MOSFETs that I saw nobody does.

I GRIND , with a grinding pen , the ground point on the APU to put solder on it. Sometimes I'd grind a bit too much. Could this be the reason?

I'm talking about the point in the arrow.
@Dee87 , @deep , @rehius I'd appreciate your opinion on this.

If I were watching over your shoulder, that's EXACTLY when I would have screamed.

cicci084 · May 28, 2023

cicci084 said:
Hi guys, I wanted to share this setup.
For the APU > Mosfet connections I used the self-sealing cable that I used for the PS1/PS2.
I stripped the section I needed first, then I soldered very easily as there was no need for a high temperature to melt the "lacquer/varnish" of the lacquered/varnished cable.
I photographed all the welding points so that novice users can get the clearest possible idea and can take a cue (it's not presumption, I write it because I read too often users who have problems and find broken consoles after installation ).
By the way, the last 10 consoles I've modded all worked with the single mosfet.
Both OLED, both Lite and classic switch.

Small curiosity: In this installation, on first start the rp2040 did not flash but remained fixed on the blue led for about 10 seconds and then switched to yellow. It's normal? I seem to remember that the other SWITCHES always flashed blue/cyan and then turned green (until fw 2.67) or yellow (FW2.73).

The 3/4 start, on the other hand, is lightning-fast, about 2 seconds scarce.

I post everything below.
First boot is video of 38s time.

Here is a problem for me too.
The console that I installed yesterday, is that yesterday had a first boot different from the others.
After the first start everything went fine.
Today however, if I try to boot, the Rp2040 flashes blue first, then several times yellow, but the console always boots OFW.

I specify that I have successfully booted hekate several times, created backups (all, boot0, boot1, keys, mmc).

I confess that I have also installed various roms, I say this to specify that Emummc worked for several hours.

Now it always starts in OFW.

Should I check the mosfet?

The work performed is the one mentioned.

I send video of led.

FreeLander · May 28, 2023

lightninjay said:
If I were watching over your shoulder, that's EXACTLY when I would have screamed.

See?. Like you said, it’s never the mod, it’s us. This mistake has cost me 2 Lites, 3 OLEDs, and one V1. I’d say that’s enough punishment.

LogicalMadness · May 28, 2023

FreeLander said:
I took a deep moment while reading your comment, and I remembered something that I always do when installing MOSFETs that I saw nobody does.

I GRIND , with a grinding pen , the ground point on the APU to put solder on it. Sometimes I'd grind a bit too much. Could this be the reason?

I'm talking about the point in the arrow.
@Dee87 , @deep , @rehius I'd appreciate your opinion on this.

...aaannnnddd..... you just shot metal dust particles all over... your switch, table, floor, etc....

Dee87 · May 28, 2023

FreeLander said:
See?. Like you said, it’s never the mod, it’s us. This mistake has cost me 2 Lites, 3 OLEDs, and one V1. I’d say that’s enough punishment.

well the switches might be savable i know a guy would maybe be able to help u getting those fixed if u want i can get u guys in touch if hes felling like it

@LogicalMadness

Adran_Marit · May 28, 2023

LogicalMadness said:
I hope you still have those dead soldiers and keep trying to revive them over the years

Post automatically merged: May 28, 2023

Possible scenario?:
'Bad' SD card(cheap\fake\old\dead) or reader (dirty\broken), corrupts the 1st glitch, creates BSOD.

Have you tried a different card? What model card are you using? Inspect the card reader?

The slims will probably be converted to super slims as the cd controllers are dead and the ps1 I'm not sure can be revived

kapranos · May 28, 2023

Hello everyone, I have installed Picofly in a Lite, with its CPU strip, I checked the soldering well before turning on and everything is correct.

The problem is that when I turned on, I saw the logo Insert SD Card Picofly but suddenly began to smoke out of the point where soldering GND,

The chip flashes the LEDs correctly but the screen is black, I understand that the resistor has been burned, right? should I repack or what can I do? thanks

QuiTim · May 28, 2023

kapranos said:
Hello everyone, I have installed Picofly in a Lite, with its CPU strip, I checked the soldering well before turning on and everything is correct.

The problem is that when I turned on, I saw the logo Insert SD Card Picofly but suddenly began to smoke out of the point where soldering 3.3 v,

The chip flashes the LEDs correctly but the screen is black, I understand that the resistor has been burned, right? should I repack or what can I do? thanksView attachment 374521 View attachment 374520

View attachment 374519

The inductor close to 3v3 seems damaged (might be bad photo)
Also check for short on the resistor side in pico

kapranos · May 28, 2023

QuiTim said:
The inductor close to 3v3 seems damaged (might be bad photo)
Also check for short on the resistor side in pico

Thanks.I understand that this component has made contact with the resistor on the right and has burned, can it be replaced? what is it called? thanks

QuiTim · May 28, 2023

Looks like a diode but i'm not sure

kapranos said:
Thanks.I understand that this component has made contact with the resistor on the right and has burned, can it be replaced? what is it called? thanksView attachment 374534

FreeLander · May 28, 2023

My first post-APU grinding Switch OLED. Works like a charm, and glitches in less than a second. boots into hekate.
I used the shield as GND. Won't be touching anything in the APU other than the two caps. Lesson roughly learned.

abal1000x · May 28, 2023

kapranos said:
Hello everyone, I have installed Picofly in a Lite, with its CPU strip, I checked the soldering well before turning on and everything is correct.

The problem is that when I turned on, I saw the logo Insert SD Card Picofly but suddenly began to smoke out of the point where soldering 3.3 v,

The chip flashes the LEDs correctly but the screen is black, I understand that the resistor has been burned, right? should I repack or what can I do? thanksView attachment 374521 View attachment 374520

View attachment 374519

If i were you, i rather choose 3.3v on the right side of ram rather under the flex. First its on the pad not capacitor, second its secured mechanically because its 2 pad. Compared to solder to the cap which you relied on the chemical bond between the conductor and the cap.

Also for ground i never using component like cap. Soldering in there just give risk on destroying the component cause the heat. Or in your case risk shorting other component. I rather use the gnd pad.

For lites its well known to use on top of the emmc. Its perfectly fit with the alyminium shield.

kapranos · May 28, 2023

abal1000x said:
If i were you, i rather choose 3.3v on the right side of ram rather under the flex. First its on the pad not capacitor, second its secured mechanically because its 2 pad. Compared to solder to the cap which you relied on the chemical bond between the conductor and the cap.

Also for ground i never using component like cap. Soldering in there just give risk on destroying the component cause the heat. Or in your case risk shorting other component. I rather use the gnd pad.

For lites its well known to use on top of the emmc. Its perfectly fit with the alyminium shield.

Thanks, can you elaborate where is this 3,3 point on the right side of the ram?

I will need to replace this component right?

What bad luck, I got to see the Picofly logo on the screen and then black screen forever

QuiTim · May 28, 2023

kapranos said:
Thanks, can you elaborate where is this 3,3 point on the right side of the ram?

I will need to replace this component right?

What bad luck, I got to see the Picofly logo on the screen and then black screen forever

It's on the Guide man, you should have read that first

https://gbatemp.net/download/a-definitive-picofly-install-guide.37968/

abal1000x · May 28, 2023

kapranos said:
Thanks, can you elaborate where is this 3,3 point on the right side of the ram?

I will need to replace this component right?

What bad luck, I got to see the Picofly logo on the screen and then black screen forever

If you use search on lite 3.3v it will popup in lot of post.

It seems that a resistor. If its broke you need to replace it.
Simple check is using diode mode, if its zero its probable to be broken. To be sure by taking it out and check the resistance value.

naldo29 · May 29, 2023

looks good guys?

lightninjay · May 29, 2023

naldo29 said:
View attachment 374572
looks good guys?

If it works for you, then great, but I'm still more partial to this way

Picofly AIO Thread

Well-Known Member

Attachments

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Attachments

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Walküre's Hacker

Member

Well-Known Member

Attachments

Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Attachments

Well-Known Member

Member

Well-Known Member

Attachments

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Similar threads

Popular threads in this forum