It should work if it the same console boot0, since boot0 has some console specific data.
https://gbatemp.net/threads/is-boot0-1-console-specific.522415/
That's it.
Oled clk is 1/4 the size of a slim 360 pll point.
Also I've seen plenty of failed rgh3 attempts, people dont have the right equiment or are impatient and mess up... short a wire they shouldn't etc etc.
Just cause a mod is cheap doesn't make it easy.
Hey, finally had time to resolder all the points and clean everything up from flux. I had removed the USB port, but I bodged in a USB cable and bootsel button for now to reflash the chip and verify everything. Same issue as before. Video attached.
Is there any chance it's looking for a specific sector size on the SD card? Special setup of FAT32? Very specific payload.bin? I'm a bit lost after reflashing both with the individual firmware and then unlock.bin, as well as trying to reflash with just the 2.5 firmware+unlock.bin. Any thoughts? I tried 22k on RST, which just prevented the console from booting, and then 47ohms, which changed nothing compared to having no resistor. If I disconnect VCC from the RP2040, it starts up just fine though into retail HOS.
Trying three different ways of making
machine.unique_id() legible hex in MicroPython all gave me the same result of DE 62, or if it's somehow backward, 2C 6E.Safe to say the 4MB flash is of the 'wrong' starting portion.
Pray forgive that even with search tools it's difficult to find things in a thread this large.Could also use this instead of trying to build it
Confirms the suspicions,
DE 62.
There is a tutorial here on gbatemp for creating a boot0 from scratch you don't get a full functional but one which works
Nop, it's not console sepcific, especially on mariko.
Erista has console specific part named 'keyblob' or 'EKS', but it is unused on fw 7.0.0 or higher.
Last edited by HenryMin,
you are using the cap above the SD slot, not sure if I've seen anyone confirm this works for Pico
https://gbatemp.net/threads/tutoria...oint-for-switch-lite-modchip-installs.610654/
You just need d+ d- vcc gnd then connect boot button wire to ground will enable it
I am truly grateful to those who have answered many of my questions! With my naked eye, beginner-level soldering skills, and patience, I was finally able to boot Hekate on my V2 Mariko. I was so happy that it could be started even with such rough soldering! Pikofly is amazing!
Attachments
I'd recommend shortening the blank ends so that only the blank part is actually on the solder spot, especially on the pico. Otherwise they can snap off and also cause short circuits. Only remove as much insulation as you actually need.
For now, I didn't worry about the length of the wires because I wanted to immediately backup things like NAND and boot0. I plan to adjust the length later on!
Wowwwwwwwwww
That was literally it. VCC must have been switching at that point, or maybe it was interrupting the 3.3V input to the SD card. That cap is way too damn small to be using as a permanent point though, going to have to find another option.
Thanks a bunch!
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