oh, it's easy. the "toolbox unlock" breaks boot0, so please use .uf2 unlock
my fault
my fault
I wouldn't use cheap or opinions..
Good old rule, measure twice, cut once..
Get the right tools, and you won't spend the time or need to fix things afterwards.
These are tiny components, you can easily knock something, over heat, bridge, etc etc.. if you're not skilled at soldering already, it'll be difficult for novices...
You can get a cheap scope/light for soldering on amazon, aliexpress, for 30-100$.
If you wear glasses, magnifying glasses get expensive to make it fit right over glasses, or replace your glasses all together (what I have).
I use a combination of both, however I prefer the scope.. it's much easier... but again.. I wouldn't go "cheap" route.. unless you're skilled, or have spares... or don't mind forking out a lot more money to fix things than to get right equipment
Wow, great job if you managed to soder those with just a magnifying glass.
What I did was that I put the phone in recording mode with flash on ( so the screen won't shut off and the light stays on). Then suspended the phone on top of 2 soda cans and worked my way with solder in pcb. Midway through this I orderd a microscope because I was not sure I will be able to finish the work since I was knocking my phone over with the solder every 20seconds
I have a phone with really good macro lens so if I find a decent way of mounting it with a big led light it should be fine for this kind of thing?
Could anyone tell me what guage of wire should be used? the enamel copper stuff isn't in normal guage size it's in mm. Also which double sided tape? Or is it all non conductive? Or should I get kapton tape ?
Last edited by rskL,
Ok well ill be waiting
Post automatically merged:
I'm using the latest version
Look, Mom, No Microscope!!!!
Will tidy up the wirings and remove the type C port after i fully test firmware v2.6. Waiting for its release..
Thanks everybody!
Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk
Will tidy up the wirings and remove the type C port after i fully test firmware v2.6. Waiting for its release..
Thanks everybody!
Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk
Last edited by everyonesweird,
My phone flashlight did a good job (just start recording with flash on and you are set).
I think it was 30awg for power and 34awg for the rest.
Here is the chart for awg to mm
Attachments
30-34 AWG.. 24-28AWG for Power/GNDs.
Kapton Tape -- heat resistant and non conductive.. (just loop it, or tape it down)
Flux.. is a must..
Solder + Low Melt Solder (for making removing things easier)
Solder Braid/Wick.. (for removing excess solder/clean up)
70-99% ISO Alch to clean..
Cheap microscope... 99$ CDN..
After I flashed uf2 to zero, I reset the zero and the LED goes BLUE(3s)->PURPLE(1s)->off, is this normal? If I short the color jumper, it becomes BLUE(3s)->CYAN(1s)->off. I read from the AIO thread that the color should be red after flashing uf2?
BLUE->PURPLE is a correct switch position
RED is a short blink right after you copy the .UF2 file
When I change back the tx-chip,everything works well.
Post automatically merged:
The left is original boot0, right is changed boot0.The right one is backuped after boot failure.
Last edited by master_0123,
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I have made a board with 47ohm resistors.
such issues like you describe happen because of eMMC lines noise. for example, it could be the excess capacitance caused by your flat cable and header.
the resistors solution was made for rp2040-zero board and direct wires. it may not fit for your board. if possible, place resistors on the other end, closer to the eMMC
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