In theory an rp2040-one will work but either the flash id has to match (which given the size and vendor mismatch it likely won't) or wait for 2.6 to come out
noice.
i will check it if it's gonna arrive.
i just do a lite one first because i can buy it cheap and my little brat gonna be happy with that too.
i gonna do a zelda tears of kingdom limited oled for myself in may.
Hey all, just finished the install on my switch lite, and I can get to the Hekate no SD screen, but as soon as I put a payload.bin on an SD card and put it in, it seems to just boot loop. Black screen, but the picofly seems to be successfully glitching multiple times. Seems to end in a bright red light on the pico though at the end of each cycle with nothing on screen. If I pull the SD card, it instantly comes up with the no SD error again. I can try booting to OFW, but halfway in after the Nintendo logo appears, the picofly seems to kick in and try to take over, killing the boot and starting the no SD screen again. Haven't seen any obvious posts about that kind of issue, so figured I'd ask here. If it helps, I have a Samsung EMMC, so no Toshiba silliness. Using a lite CPU flex cable as well, so doubting it's an issue with the MOSFETs. I used the ufw file with unlock integrated as well if that matters.
Thanks!
Thanks!
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what resistors did you ues?
what payload,bin version in your SD,matching the OFW ?
Also what chip and from where?
Amazon zero works and has a WS logo on front
Ali zero works and has no WS logo on front
Both confirmed by me personally
I used 47 ohm resistors on DAT0, CMD, CLK. No resistor on RST. I used the latest version of Hekate, though I honestly don't remember my OFW version and I don't think it matters at the bootloader stage, only the horizon stage.
Post automatically merged:
I used the waveshare RP2040 Zero from Amazon. It has the WS logo. As noted, it boots up to the Hekate IPL No-SD screen, it just can't get past it.
usually that happens when you have much flux around RST
but in the very rare cases you have to add a resistor to the RST point (up to 20K)
Pi pico uses one of the pins this fw needs for an internal temp sensor, if you're good with the iron you can remove the temp sensor and solder to the pad
Last edited by Dee87,
I've read it a couple of times in the previous posts that the resistors need to be 0805 or smaller. I don’t know if this matters but I just wanted to point it out since it seems that this mod is way too sensitive and small variations are creating very different outcomes. Cheers
I wasn't really active in the Switch scene for months now.
So Picofly allows Modding of OLED Switches and Switch Lites, right?
Is there a Guide on how to do that?
So Picofly allows Modding of OLED Switches and Switch Lites, right?
Is there a Guide on how to do that?
The size of the resistor doesn’t really matter it’s the amount of ohms that matter I used through hole resistors and they worked fine of course you probably don’t want to use anything smaller than 0603 because it’s difficult to solder to a small resistor
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To long and to short wires seems to be the cause not 100% sure about that tho
Currently you can mod any switch with this method. everything you need is in this thread. @Adran_Marit created a Picofly AIO Thread (/picofly-aio-thread.628951/) , that is a great place to start.
Yes all models of switch can be modded with a pico you need to connect dat 0 for it to work and on oleds that can be difficult
Thank you very much to both of you!
I'll give it a chance!
When I first heard about the Modchip, I ordered 4 which are on my Desk rn. Gonna test it after work
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