In theory it should work, as long as someone makes the code and the pins (3.3v etc) are matching.
Picofly AIO Thread
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It would still be very large and difficult to make fit. The PZero is too big, as-is. Seems like going even bigger is shooting yourself in the foot. That is, unless someone uses CAD and makes a different backplate for the Switch.
Oh yes of course, the size is a different story. I mean you could cut the shield.
But for the chip itself to work, it should just be new pins and adapt the code.
The Rpi Pi Pico is much larger than the RP2040-Zero, even if you can get it to work Im not sure how people would get it to fit onto the board, at most you need something like Trinket M0 size.
Outside modchip?
That could also work if people can inject from the USB C port.
i paid 45e for a complete instinct modchip thnks to picofly. Prices are really gonna drop and i expect picfly chips on aliexpress soon
This looks like a nice DIY way to mod the switch, I'm quite looking forward to giving homebrew a go.
I've ordered 2 x flex cables to do my OLED model, along with a sample pack of 0805 resistors for this.
What would the best choise of wire be for this? Is 36 guage too thin, it doesn't look like there is much current?
Is insulated or enamelled wire preferred or is it a case of each having their own pro's and con's?
I've ordered 2 x flex cables to do my OLED model, along with a sample pack of 0805 resistors for this.
What would the best choise of wire be for this? Is 36 guage too thin, it doesn't look like there is much current?
Is insulated or enamelled wire preferred or is it a case of each having their own pro's and con's?
till a tidy version is brought out 45e is fair i paid as much as a game card...
Its sadly one of the harder installs on oleds. Its super small and if you aren't used to small soldering, it can cause issues.
I take zero credit for this formation!
The below is for the OLEDs, as those are all I have installed experience with, out side of some trinkets/ unpatched installs. I do not have erista or mariko to test. Though I would assume they would be the similar. I also have not tested with an rp2040 since I plan on waiting for a proper pcb to be produced (if).
If the information I provided does get added to the OP I would like to add that diode readings should be taken for the other connections as well after the install. Testing once soldered to the rp2040 and before booting. Points should be tested on the rp2040. Obviously, do not test with the 3 resistors being between the the probe points or the resistor with change the values you get. Test where the wire is soldered. This will help to verify proper connections and mitigate having to troubleshoot your work.
Clk, Dat0,cmd, and 3.3v points should all range from .420 and .850 in diode mode. RST should read 2.7 or 0 in diode mode.
Thank sthetix for the images pulled from his video. Note: HWFLY in the example pics
Last edited by kylum,
I have an ignorent question, can you install the mosfet IRFHS8342 to the RP2040 directly and wire the mosfet IRFHS8342 to the switch CPU? and not have the mosfet inside the CPU. maybe it easier, maybe it necesary for the wires to not cause problems.. I'm thinking of getting things to try this mod and that was one thing i wanted to try, to wire thee CPU to the mosfet and connect the mosfet to the RP2040.. or is that too crazy?
Keep in mind that data 0 connection could have good readings and still not work. I find 420ish red probe on ground always working. 500ish is kinda high and can work on some but if you have any issues on re assemble I would check this again.
The consensus on this is no. I’m not fully sure but I think that the longer the source and drain leads are the likely hood it will not glitch/train…. There is a reason SX and HWFLY have the mosfet so close to the APU.
Friends do you have a good hekate/ams build for picofly, i have issues with original ams and builds like hats
That's correct if you put the Mosfet to far from the CPU's caps will be parasitive currents and timing issues.
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