Picofly AIO Thread

calishooter

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I used the 2 file version on a v1 patched and all good - There is a combined one as well I havent tested.

All uf2s are same install - Plug zero in copy 2.5fw then repeat for unlock uf2. Just like trinket/gemma/et
I read that the 2.5fw gets flashed first right? So when do you use unlock.uf2?
 
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linuxares

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Plug zero in

Drag n drop 2.5 uf2

I like to unplug then plug in again

Drag n drop unlock uf2

Thats it
For those who aren't sure how most of these devices work with uf2.

When you copy it over, it will auto-flash whatever uf2 that got copied over.


So 2.5.uf2 flashes the firmware.
the unlock.uf2 flash the unlock parts.

You could say the unlock file is a patch.
 

kylum

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I’m specifically looking to avoid the hassle of having to “readjust” the dat0 adapter for the Hwfly every now and then just so my OLED boots up to LED colour green vs ( orange/yellow or red colour…sometimes and not booting to Hekate….can u please point me to a link or keywords to search that in the topic here in gbatemp…please anyone?
Multiple installs including my own and have not had any issues with the Dat0 adapters. Minus a few at the beginning that did not have solder anchors. Definitely not have had readjust once working. If it was properly installed you should not have to adjust it. Maybe go for the 4 anchor point version next round. Though if you already have an Hwfly inside I wouldn’t bother. It would be a waste of time and money for the same results.
 
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Adran_Marit

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Quick question...so there's two files (fw_2.5_nw.uf2 and unlock.uf2) that need to be used. How do you use each one? Thanks!
Use the one I recommend which is the merged file

hi, How many hwfly adapters exist between the normal, lite and oled consoles? there are compatible with each other?
V1 flex, lite flex, oled flex and v2. I'm not 100% sure but i think the last 2 are interchangeable
Post automatically merged:

just its not very clear :P
  • 47-50 ohm resistors - SMD 08085 or smaller isnt it easier to write it as a SMD 0805 47R Resistor
  • Mosfet (IRFSH8342 MOSFET) Is actually IRFHS8342
  • And which hwfly cpu flex cable? and how is it actually installed with the flex cable and not the mosfet?
  • soz just trying to build myself a list of stuffs to possibly have a play

The hwfly for the switch you are chipping. If you have a lite then a lite flex, old then an oled flex. etc etc. The flexes already have the mosfets on them, hence you don't need to solder the mosfets
 
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frozenboy

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For those who aren't sure how most of these devices work with uf2.

When you copy it over, it will auto-flash whatever uf2 that got copied over.


So 2.5.uf2 flashes the firmware.
the unlock.uf2 flash the unlock parts.

You could say the unlock file is a patch.
Sorry for the question but I wondering why we need the fw and the patch in 2 files. We are unable to merge the fw and the patch into a single one, are we?. 2 file sometime make me confused a bit
 

Adran_Marit

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Sorry for the question but I wondering why we need the fw and the patch in 2 files. We are unable to merge the fw and the patch into a single one, are we?. 2 file sometime make me confused a bit
This is a single file

the GitHub has the individual files AND a pre-merged file, I've stated that direct download link the the first post
 

calishooter

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Another quick question...is there another way to update the fw even though you remove USB port from your rp2040-zero? Can you update threw Hekate?
 

TechCentreUK

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Hi guys switch lite install here I’m getting blue led then purple/pink led and a normal ofw boot. Confirmed soldering of cmd and clk are correct I’m using 47ohm resistors on cmd, clk and d0.
 

Kid4life79

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@Adran_Marit can you please add the info on how to reconnect USB & flash the chip after removing the USBC, Boot & Reset Buttons? I think with the 2.6 coming out a lot of people will need the info. These were from the post that helped me out in the other thread.
 

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jkyoho

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Hi guys switch lite install here I’m getting blue led then purple/pink led and a normal ofw boot. Confirmed soldering of cmd and clk are correct I’m using 47ohm resistors on cmd, clk and d0.
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10090767
”PURPLE = eMMC boot failure, check CMD / CLK”
double check your solder work, I had same purple blink then HOS before, and my CMD line solder is not perfect(measured resistance with DMM) even my eye tells me clear :rofl:
 

Hayato213

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@Adran_Marit can you please add the info on how to reconnect USB & flash the chip after removing the USBC, Boot & Reset Buttons? I think with the 2.6 coming out a lot of people will need the info. These were from the post that helped me out in the other thread.

Would be interesting if someone create a payload to allow the pikofly to update the uf2 that is on the chip, SAMD21 Modchip had a update payload that put the switch into uf2 update mode.
 
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Dee87

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Multiple installs including my own and have not had any issues with the Dat0 adapters. Minus a few at the beginning that did not have solder anchors. Definitely not have had readjust once working. If it was properly installed you should not have to adjust it. Maybe go for the 4 anchor point version next round. Though if you already have an Hwfly inside I wouldn’t bother. It would be a waste of time and money for the same results.
could u link me some good ones for my Oled ?

not really that familiar with reballing the emmc
 
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