Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

mrdude

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How could you easily program it?
Temp solder a usb cable onto it, you only need to flash it once.
pga2040-4_1500x1500.jpg
 
Last edited by mrdude,

DankBreak270

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Man I know why I love modding switch’s now I just spent 4 hours trying to figure out why my wifi wasn’t working after getting preparations done for my rp2040 that arrives tomorrow I must have turned on my switch 30 times hoping for the Wi-Fi to work now I don’t know if replacing the caps near the apu or reflowing the Wi-Fi card fixed it but I’ll take it the joy you get when it works is so great
 
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mrdude

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Man I know why I love modding switch’s now I just spent 4 hours trying to figure out why my wifi wasn’t working after getting preparations done for my rp2040 that arrives tomorrow I must have turned on my switch 30 times hoping for the Wi-Fi to work now I don’t know if replacing the caps near the apu or reflowing the Wi-Fi card fixed it but I’ll take it the joy you get when it works is so great
I once spent about an hour trying to figure out why my wifi wouldn't connect and the switch would crash trying to connect to my wifi, then I remembered I'd changed the DNS settings - doh!
 

SorataVP69

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Latest firmware here

ChangeLog:

v2.0 + Active MMC communication
v2.1 + Toshiba support
v2.2 + Fix Toshiba boot fail
v2.3 + SanDisk support
v2.4 + Faster Toshiba boot
v2.5 + fix OFW boot

must be RED after USB write. if you see green, set "RGB mode" jumper

WHITE = eMMC write
BLUE = glitch
PURPLE = eMMC boot failure, check CMD / CLK
YELLOW = eMMC write failure, check D0 / unsupported eMMC
CYAN = no reaction to glitch, check mosfet wire
GREEN = success



Q: What is supported?
A: Erista (v1), Mariko (v2, Lite, OLED)

Q: eMMC types support?
A: Tested on Hynix, Samsung, Toshiba, SanDisk

Q: GREEN, but instant reset
A: Check your soldering, clean flux. If does not help = add 20K-30K to RST

Q: Do I really need 47 Ohm resistors?
A: You can skip them, however in this case you will have to use emuMMC due to the line interference, sysNAND would not boot.

Q: Does the firmware has learning? How to reset statistics
A: Short pin 0 to either 1 or GND during start for chip reset. The statistics is collected each boot. The more you start it - the better it boots.

Q: open source?
A: no

Q: why you made it?
A: to prove it possible!

Q: run Atmosphere?
A: no piracy

By using the Atmosphere unlock tool you agree to use it for homebrew only.

Way 1 (USB): flash the unlock.uf2 into chip by USB
Way 2 (no USB): run picofly_tb from Hekate, need unlock.bin on the SD card

Boot into Full Stock and perform a full system reset.
hello, if I have the flex cables of the hwfly for the V2, Lite or Oled, should I still solder "irfsh8342" and the resistors? thanks for the great job btw
Post automatically merged:

Latest firmware here

ChangeLog:

v2.0 + Active MMC communication
v2.1 + Toshiba support
v2.2 + Fix Toshiba boot fail
v2.3 + SanDisk support
v2.4 + Faster Toshiba boot
v2.5 + fix OFW boot

must be RED after USB write. if you see green, set "RGB mode" jumper

WHITE = eMMC write
BLUE = glitch
PURPLE = eMMC boot failure, check CMD / CLK
YELLOW = eMMC write failure, check D0 / unsupported eMMC
CYAN = no reaction to glitch, check mosfet wire
GREEN = success



Q: What is supported?
A: Erista (v1), Mariko (v2, Lite, OLED)

Q: eMMC types support?
A: Tested on Hynix, Samsung, Toshiba, SanDisk

Q: GREEN, but instant reset
A: Check your soldering, clean flux. If does not help = add 20K-30K to RST

Q: Do I really need 47 Ohm resistors?
A: You can skip them, however in this case you will have to use emuMMC due to the line interference, sysNAND would not boot.

Q: Does the firmware has learning? How to reset statistics
A: Short pin 0 to either 1 or GND during start for chip reset. The statistics is collected each boot. The more you start it - the better it boots.

Q: open source?
A: no

Q: why you made it?
A: to prove it possible!

Q: run Atmosphere?
A: no piracy

By using the Atmosphere unlock tool you agree to use it for homebrew only.

Way 1 (USB): flash the unlock.uf2 into chip by USB
Way 2 (no USB): run picofly_tb from Hekate, need unlock.bin on the SD card

Boot into Full Stock and perform a full system reset.
hello, if I have the flex cables of the hwfly for the V2, Lite or Oled, should I still solder "irfsh8342" and the resistors? Thanks for the great job
 

DankBreak270

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I once spent about an hour trying to figure out why my wifi wouldn't connect and the switch would crash trying to connect to my wifi, then I remembered I'd changed the DNS settings - doh!
When the switch came out and I was still like 12 I left airplane mode on didn’t know I couldn’t connect for a week
 
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Phantomas77

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hello, if I have the flex cables of the hwfly for the V2, Lite or Oled, should I still solder "irfsh8342" and the resistors? thanks for the great job btw
Post automatically merged:


hello, if I have the flex cables of the hwfly for the V2, Lite or Oled, should I still solder "irfsh8342" and the resistors? Thanks for the great job
The MOSFETs are already present in the cable, you should be just good to go with it only.
The resistors are necessary for filtering signal interference and for booting into SYSMMC, more info just few pages ago.
 
Last edited by Phantomas77,

marhalloweenvt

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has anyone seen seeed XIAO rp2040, is this chip also compatible? - Seems it’s hard to buy RP2040-Zero in UK unless anyone has any best places to buy from?
For the current fw, Xiao is not supported due to lack of pin out:
- Pin 25 for setting RGB/GRB led mode (important for debugging)
- Pin 15 for CPU data line (important for glitching)
 
Last edited by marhalloweenvt,

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