Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

A-Hacked-Soul

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Cheaper than the hwfly that’s all I know
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A mosfet 3 47 ohm resistor and the raspberry pi zero (rp2040) so 15 or 20 usd
I remember reading a bit back that it has to be specefic gauge for the wires, is that still correct? I have not encountered that before in any previous mods I have done.
 

impeeza

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As always on micro electronics, you need keep the wires short as possible and use the thickest wire you can, on this case you should use AWG between 28-32 or enamel ones, they shouldn't be so thick they ripoff your test points or traces on the board.
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Wait you say mosfet or flex is optional? Is install safe without it?
The flex cable for the CPU have the mosfet on it, you can use directly soldered mosfet or use one of the mods described two pages ago. the important post have some ideas for connecting it also.
 
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everyonesweird

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As always on micro electronics, you need keep the wires short as possible and use the thickest wire you can, on this case you should use AWG between 28-32 or enamel ones, they shouldn't be so thick they ripoff your test points or traces on the board.
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The flex cable for the CPU have the mosfet on it, you can use directly soldered mosfet or use one of the mods described two pages ago. the important post have some ideas for connecting it also.
i have hwfly V1/v2 cables. i saw only one wire going from it to the RP2040. Which point of the cable do I sodder to RP2040?
 

mrdude

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For those trying to save space and not wanting to remove buttons or the usb port - This should also work,

Pimoroni PGA2040
https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/pga2040
https://coolcomponents.co.uk/products/pga2040-an-rp2040-breakout-board

pga2040_1024x1024.png
 
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bbsan2k

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Now that the firmware is out (although not being OSS) I guess someone will create an own PCB for it, as you can make it even better integrated and still way cheaper than HWFLY.
 
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nqtal

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Hi all! Help is needed. Somehow unsuccessfully put rp2040, blinked blue, then purple and stopped turning on. I checked all the soldering, I didn’t find any problems, I was busy half the night, it didn’t start. As a result, the chip was removed, but now, when turned on, the Nintendo logo appears for only a few seconds, then a black screen and no reaction. When charging is connected, the battery charge indicator also appears for a few seconds and also a black screen, the battery itself is 60% charged. What are the options and assumptions?
 

marhalloweenvt

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Now that the firmware is out (although not being OSS) I guess someone will create an own PCB for it, as you can make it even better integrated and still way cheaper than HWFLY.
I have already designed one but final cost can't compare with widely available rp2040-zero. Just do it for fun and fit inside console easier.
 

Adran_Marit

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Hi all! Help is needed. Somehow unsuccessfully put rp2040, blinked blue, then purple and stopped turning on. I checked all the soldering, I didn’t find any problems, I was busy half the night, it didn’t start. As a result, the chip was removed, but now, when turned on, the Nintendo logo appears for only a few seconds, then a black screen and no reaction. When charging is connected, the battery charge indicator also appears for a few seconds and also a black screen, the battery itself is 60% charged. What are the options and assumptions?

Sounds like something went wrong and you have bricked with I'm guessing a bad boot0 file.

Please post picture of your soldering work.
 
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