No even if you choose hwfly you still need to solder to those 2 pointsThat two points you talk about I only need to solder something if I choose pico, if I choose hwfly, that is not need right?!
No even if you choose hwfly you still need to solder to those 2 pointsThat two points you talk about I only need to solder something if I choose pico, if I choose hwfly, that is not need right?!
Like Tafty said, depends on the Switch. OLED is the hardest, but that doesn't mean Lite or V1/V2 are "easy".That two points you talk about I only need to solder something if I choose pico, if I choose hwfly, that is not need right?!
is someone can confirm the point is ok for erista and mariko flex.
I use the diagram for flex lite to do this picture.
But I have no flex lite, so I can't make a continuity test for to be sure.
you remove the cap and solder to the top pad isolating the pad below?You should be able to do a continuity test using the legs of the mosfet, no?
similar to the pics for V1 and V2 in this post:
https://gbatemp.net/threads/pikofly-a-probably-fake-hwfly-modchips-or-not.622701/post-10066639
View attachment 352216
V1
View attachment 352215
V2
That is correct for V2you remove the cap and solder to the top pad isolating the pad below?
you dont need to actually remove it if you run jumper wire from mosfet to top pad of the cap right?That is correct for V2
Correct. It’s not removed when using the HWFLY flex cable. They are simply getting the components as close to the caps as possible. You could introduce jumpers for more clearance. I would secure it somehow as you don’t want things flopping around in there.you dont need to actually remove it if you run jumper wire from mosfet to top pad of the cap right?
if your OLED had issues where it wouldnt boot the problem isnt the chip its the way it was installed....Most Likely the Dat 0 wasnt installed correctly.just a question guys, in case things end up working with this picofly thing, will it be just like the hwfly does its thing, with the light leds when it turns green (launching ams) and stuff.
i had hwfly v4 on an oled, i was not a big fan honestly, whenever id reboot it to launch into OFW to play some Mk8d online or some other stuff online i'd dread rebooting it again as at times it would get stuck on purple(or i think lime) and what not , wouldnt boot into ams, it was pretty trash.
i had to send it back to the modder, and even tho he fixed it , i decided to sell it.
i just thought that hardmods kind of wacky (not so stable) ticking time bombish.
sound good, the hwfly are still pricey.if your OLED had issues where it wouldnt boot the problem isnt the chip its the way it was installed....Most Likely the Dat 0 wasnt installed correctly.
so this problem would also exist on picofly if its not installed correctly.
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one good thing about the current leaked firmware for pico is that it has a different colour led depending on which part is at fault. so if it flashes one colour its dat0 another for clk and another for cmd...the hwfly doesnt really have this...it just flashes one colour to say you have a problem with one of those points...it will defo be easier for a novice installer to troubleshoot if they install it wrong as it basically tells you where the issue lies.
My switch are V2. Mariko.Like Tafty said, depends on the Switch. OLED is the hardest, but that doesn't mean Lite or V1/V2 are "easy".
i keep seeing people mention the cost of install being steep and to be honest it rubs me the wrong way....the whole reason why you pay for someone else to do it is usually because your not skilled enough to do the work yourself.sound good, the hwfly are still pricey.
if it was not just that cost id put it on my stock oled.
installation costs are steep too.
so is the installation of pico less tedious than a hwfly and would cost less you think?
or is it similar?
your going to need to manually solder the points on the mariko, as no QSB exists for this....so its just as involved as doing an oled HWFLY....My switch are V2. Mariko.
thx , you are right ofc i admit better way to be safe then break it trying it yourself without even all the tools etc loli keep seeing people mention the cost of install being steep and to be honest it rubs me the wrong way....the whole reason why you pay for someone else to do it is usually because your not skilled enough to do the work yourself.
if you cant do the install yourself what makes you think the install cost is steep? thats a genuine question not trying to start an argument.
remember alot of modders (myself included) arent new to this...your paying for my skillset and 20 years of experience in this field.
and would you rather A) do it yourself and break your console....or B) let someone who knows do it and mitigate the risk.
and in all fairness the pico is more involved then the hwfly.... especially on mariko and lites...OLED installs will be the same
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your going to need to manually solder the points on the mariko, as no QSB exists for this....so its just as involved as doing an oled HWFLY....
i havent seen a chip break a console...but i have seen dead chips.....thats more of a quality control issue though from both SX and HWfly over the years. ive had brand new chips be DOA.thx , you are right ofc i admit better way to be safe then break it trying it yourself without even all the tools etc lol
also the modder that did it for me actually only charged me about 60$ xd
i think im just bit paranoid thinking the chip could break the switch at some point?
also what do you think of pico vs a hwly will the pico be a safer/better chip over the hwfly or not really ?
in short at the momment its not working..Hi, someone can do a recap about the situation with pokofly ? Whats is the "leak" ?
Yes 2 of themdoes the hwfly flex cpu already have the mosfet?
Ok I see. Thanks for the reply and I hope it will be possible one dayi havent seen a chip break a console...but i have seen dead chips.....thats more of a quality control issue though from both SX and HWfly over the years. ive had brand new chips be DOA.
the pico will be as good as a hwfly probably....but with one major difference....THE COST. which means if the chip does die for what ever reason at least its only a couple of dollars to replace.....also i would like the think at the end of this the firmware will be open source.....so we dont need to keep paying hwfly for chips.
because they have milked the situation with there clones.....
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in short at the momment its not working..
there was a leak of a dump from a "working picofly" console that is currently being reversed engineered by the some of the guys in here(this doesnt work at all flashed onto another pico as its encrypted)
and we have another firmware bin that allows us to boot hekate but HOS doesn't work because there is an issue with the bootloader/sd loader or both.
we are in the very early stages currently
Yes, but is I go with hwfly, I only need to solder the flex. Not to complicated as pico.i keep seeing people mention the cost of install being steep and to be honest it rubs me the wrong way....the whole reason why you pay for someone else to do it is usually because your not skilled enough to do the work yourself.
if you cant do the install yourself what makes you think the install cost is steep? thats a genuine question not trying to start an argument.
remember alot of modders (myself included) arent new to this...your paying for my skillset and 20 years of experience in this field.
and would you rather A) do it yourself and break your console....or B) let someone who knows do it and mitigate the risk.
and in all fairness the pico is more involved then the hwfly.... especially on mariko and lites...OLED installs will be the same
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your going to need to manually solder the points on the mariko, as no QSB exists for this....so its just as involved as doing an oled HWFLY....