HWFLY OLED install. I can't get the DAT0 connector to connect.

Peeta01

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One last thing, what type of soldering tip are you guys using? I seen some people use the IS. Is that better with trying get solder on point D?
 

Peeta01

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I recommend that you use a fine-tip.
Like these?
1670003509270.png
 
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HelloShitty

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Don't choose the tiniest or finest ones. At least in my case, the smallest I have is not very good or I don't have the skills to use it.
Remember that te smaller the tip the less surface there is to transfer heat. And that was a problem to me! When I thought I could be more accurate with a pencil shape tip, I end up not being able to melt solder properly because there wasn't enough heat on the tip to make it melt. At least it was the feeling I had while using these tips!
 
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Peeta01

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Don't choose the tiniest or finest ones. At least in my case, the smallest I have is not very good or I don't have the skills to use it.
Remember that te smaller the tip the less surface there is to transfer heat. And that was a problem to me! When I thought I could be more accurate with a pencil shape tip, I end up not being able to melt solder properly because there wasn't enough heat on the tip to make it melt. At least it was the feeling I had while using these tips!
Thanks!

Hm... heres the IS tips.
1670008857845.png
 

randy_w

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Personally I have the best experience with pointed tip and bent tip:

1670008843897.png

1670008876406.png


Because everything's so tiny and if you use a chisel or knife tip the contact point is larger than the smd component. Anyway start with a smaller tip first, if you don't like it change to a larger tip
 

Peeta01

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I think I only used pencil tip for point A on the console board, where there is a very tiny resistor and I was affraid to burn the resistor or let it loose wit eccess heat!
Since you mention that. What temperature are you guys using? I think one time i used too high and it burn out the padding on the ribbon. I dont know if it was that or cheap manufacturing.
 
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Since you mention that. What temperature are you guys using? I think one time i used too high and it burn out the padding on the ribbon. I dont know if it was that or cheap manufacturing.
I used 360ºC most of the time. For one of the points is known to be needed some more. Aroun 400ºC. I think it was for one of the GND points!
 

Peeta01

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Tested diode mode on chip points d = .73v A = .726v C = .73v 3v3= .74v gnd = 0 beep B check continuity it beeps. Flashing purple, flash green, flash purple and end with red light and boots onto original system. Can't figure where the issue is. sp1 and sp2 diode mode reads 0.013v with beeps. TIA.
 
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HelloShitty

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Tested diode mode on chip points d = .73v A = .726v C = .73v 3v3= .74v gnd = 0 beep B check continuity it beeps. Flashing purple, flash green, flash purple and end with red light and boots onto original system. Can't figure where the issue is. sp1 and sp2 diode mode reads 0.013v with beeps. TIA.
I think it's point B that needs to read 1.2v or something llike that. I didn't understand what you said for point B.
Are you following any tutorial?
 

Peeta01

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I think it's point B that needs to read 1.2v or something llike that. I didn't understand what you said for point B.
Are you following any tutorial?
Hmm i didnt get any reading on point B (diode mode). Not sure why. Even try reading directly from point B but i didnt see a reading. I read somewhere it say check for continuity only. But maybe thats where my error is. Ill try to desolder point b to see if i can get a reading. Thanks!
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Hmm i didnt get any reading on point B (diode mode). Not sure why. Even try reading directly from point B but i didnt see a reading. I read somewhere it say check for continuity only. But maybe thats where my error is. Ill try to desolder point b to see if i can get a reading. Thanks!
Yeah im not getting any reading on point B. Any reason this might be? Can i use another point?
 
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randy_w

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Hmm i didnt get any reading on point B (diode mode).
That's normal. Some multimeters won't push enough voltage in diode mode so it won't register. Iirc it's about 2-3V. Also point B is a big pad on the motherboard so it's hard to miss it.

Readings all look good, but the led pattern is a bit strange. Did it pass the initial training? It shouldn't flash purple if it's not trained before. Try to reset the chip and update the firmware
 
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That's normal. Some multimeters won't push enough voltage in diode mode so it won't register. Iirc it's about 2-3V. Also point B is a big pad on the motherboard so it's hard to miss it.

Readings all look good, but the led pattern is a bit strange. Did it pass the initial training? It shouldn't flash purple if it's not trained before. Try to reset the chip and update the firmware

I wasn't aware about that detail. I use a Brymen 869s. I always get over 1v on that point!
 

Peeta01

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That's normal. Some multimeters won't push enough voltage in diode mode so it won't register. Iirc it's about 2-3V. Also point B is a big pad on the motherboard so it's hard to miss it.

Readings all look good, but the led pattern is a bit strange. Did it pass the initial training? It shouldn't flash purple if it's not trained before. Try to reset the chip and update the firmware
Yes it went throught the inital training flashing yellow then purple then green/yellos purple and end with red. So... am i suppose to get anything reading from point B?
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I wasn't aware about that detail. I use a Brymen 869s. I always get over 1v on that point!
Yeah it stays on OL when testing Point B.
 

HelloShitty

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Yes it went throught the inital training flashing yellow then purple then green/yellos purple and end with red. So... am i suppose to get anything reading from point B?
Post automatically merged:


Yeah it stays on OL when testing Point B.

I wouldn't be confortable without a reading there.
OL means Open Loop or something like that! Does it checks for continuity? I mean, from the point on the console board to the point on the chip? I mean, to make sure the wire is not broken.
 

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