Hardware Power off after Nintendo logo, but ONLY when plugged in.

TrashQueen

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Hi everyone!
I'm new to this community, brought here after my own device became "bricked."
The main symptom is in the title. Doesn't matter if it's plugged into the wall or either of my two laptops- when I press the power button, it'll show the Nintendo logo and shut off (no backlight after that). I know it's off because when I press the power button again, the same thing happens.

I've never used a 3rd party dock or charger, aside from a Macbook Pro 2017 charger. Before all of this happened, I've never tried to put a mod on it or put it into AutoRCM. I bought it directly from Target mid 2019. The serial number starts with XAW1-008645, possibly patched according to ismyswitchpatched.
Before the error first happened, I've always kept the system up to date. I've never been interested in moding this device.

Here's what I've tried so far. Warning: lots of text.

When my switch first crashed, the Nintendo logo wouldn't even show up. These are the things I tried:
  1. Injecting Hekate. Some nice people on Reddit told me that it could be in RCM. They were probably right, because my computer could recognize it as an APX mode, and TegraRcmGui detected: RCM OK. However, after clicking inject, the switch stayed on its black screen and Tegra said "Smashed the stack with a 0x0000 byte SETUP request." This probably means the switch is patched, right?
  2. Injecting TegraExplorer
  3. Injecting a bunch of other things I found on this forum, like BiskeyDump and LockPick (none of the injections worked)
  4. Putting AtmosphereOS on an SD card and injecting Hekate, even though I've never tried to do this before.
  5. Taking out the NAND chip module and plugging it back in. (apologies if I'm misusing the terminology)
And finally, the last thing I tried before the Nintendo logo would show up is the "Upgrading/Downgrading Manually With a PC" on the Homebrew Guide website (can't post links, as I'm new).
No, I didn't have any backups of NAND or Boot0/Boot1, nor did I have any way to make a backup, since injections didn't work.
No, I don't have my device's biskeys.
No, I have no idea if my switch is Ipatched.
No, I had no idea if I could even launch RCM payloads.
I downloaded textfiles of someone else's keys, and needless to say, I got stuck on step 6.

But now my device isnt booting to RCM, and at least the nintendo logo shows up? I honestly haven't found anyone else whose switch does this weird logo only when powered up thing.

And if you want the full story, here's what happened in full. A drama in 3 acts.

--ACT 1: Black screen of death---
Around January of this year, I was playing on it while charging with the original Nintendo charger.
In the middle of playing, I got a black error screen. Mistake #1: I didn't write down. It wouldn't turn back on, and putting it into the original dock would make the green light flash once.
Now, I have a little experience with electrical engineering, so I borrowed my dad's Fluke multimeter to poke around in there after watching some videos by My Mate Vince on Youtube. I will admit that aside from knowing what resisters are and what "ground" means, I didn't really know what I was doing. I might've shorted something - I'm not sure if that matters too much, BECAUSE

--ACT 2: UBreakIBreak--
Mistake #2: I took it to UBreakIFix, a 3rd party electronics repair chain with good reviews and brick-and-mortar locations. I took it there instead of sending it to Nintendo because I thought it would be faster, and because I was afraid they would refuse to fix it, as I had opened it up and poked around in there. (Will elaborate if needed). Well, was I wrong.
When I went back to pick it up, they told me it was the charging port, which they replaced. BUT when I tried to turn it on in the store, it wouldn't turn on, even after we tried to charge it. So I left it there so they could try to figure it out.

Weeks go by, they tell me it might be a mod. I give them the SD card I'd used on it (which, mistake #0, I hadn't formatted before putting it into my switch). More weeks go by as the technician supposedly "tries to find which mod was on it". I smell bs because they should've been able to boot into hekate. Right??

Finally, about a week ago, they sent it back.

---ACT 3: Trusting the internet---
Now, I've been trying to figure out this "mod" situation on my own. Some nice people on Reddit told me that my switch is on AutoRCM, and that I just had to launch hekate and turn it off. This is when I tried all the things above.

So my next steps are to try to put this thing in RCM mode again and try pushing Hekate. I've ordered a jig, but I'm not sure if this will even work. See #1 in the first spoiler.
I'm also thinking about buying a NAND to SD Card breakout board for low voltage NANDs. This will allow me to solder the NAND module soldering my NAND to that converter, and reading what's on that NAND. I'm not sure if I'll get any useful info out of that.

Or, since the nintendo logo is showing up and none of that RCM stuff is happening, sending it to nintendo. This would risk either of these two outcomes.
  1. Them not fixing it since I've messed around inside and with injections. This would just waste my time - not the biggest concern.
  2. Them replacing the whole device and my save files being gone. If that happens I will cry.
Is there anything I can try until my jig gets here? I have a spare battery from Amazon, so maybe I can try to plug that in and turn it on. Would that even help?
Or I could get one of those USB C voltage readers and see what happens on bootup.

Another note, I'm not at my parents' house anymore, so I cant borrow that Fluke multimeter.
 

technomancer

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I have 2 units with the same problem (powers on to Nintendo logo then black screen). From what others have posted, there isn't a reliable fix for this issue. If you got "Smashed the stack with 0x0000..." it's patched. There are a couple of sites out there you can check your serial number against to confirm.

As for trying to fix it, some have suggested replacing one or more of the usual suspect chips (M92T36, BQ24193, and P13USB) has solved the issue but others have tried with no success. I am waiting for some P13USB chips to come in myself to give it a try but I'm not particularly hopeful. Other than that, I haven't heard of any way around this save perhaps a mod chip (don't know if that would work either though).
 

de9ed

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It's definitely patched, it's probably one of the IC causing this issue. If you are in Canada,I could lend you a hand on the diagnosis.

I would get a usb c tester meter and see if the switch even accept charges first of all. If you are adventurous, get a ph00 and y00 screw driver open up and search for the fault yourself
 

TrashQueen

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As for trying to fix it, some have suggested replacing one or more of the usual suspect chips (M92T36, BQ24193, and P13USB) has solved the issue but others have tried with no success. I am waiting for some P13USB chips to come in myself to give it a try but I'm not particularly hopeful.

Good luck with your chips- I don't have a rework station myself, but let me know if it works for you!


It's definitely patched, it's probably one of the IC causing this issue. If you are in Canada,I could lend you a hand on the diagnosis.

I would get a usb c tester meter and see if the switch even accept charges first of all. If you are adventurous, get a ph00 and y00 screw driver open up and search for the fault yourself

I do have the appropriate screw drivers and have opened up my device. I didn't know what to look for, though. Should I be testing the fuses? Or the caps around the chips that tecnomancer suggested?
 

de9ed

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Good luck with your chips- I don't have a rework station myself, but let me know if it works for you!





I do have the appropriate screw drivers and have opened up my device. I didn't know what to look for, though. Should I be testing the fuses? Or the caps around the chips that tecnomancer suggested?

Those are the 3 most prone to damaged IC. I would check shorts around those 3. And just quick check the fuse and the coil ( right side of the usb port) for continuity
 

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