Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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Daddy_Daycare

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Does your Switch still work (charge from USB-C port with original charger)?

Hey man. Sorry I didn't respond. I haven't been on the site since my last post. Pretty much gave up.
It will charge but only in one direction. If that makes sense. Pins in the USB c port got damaged so now it only charges if you plug it one way not either way. So the port isn't bidirectional. Video out and the USB don't work either. That's why I was hoping this would work since I can't use my dongle or computer to boot into cfw.
Is there a chip responsible for the USB data I could try and replace?
 

pure3d2

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Hey man. Sorry I didn't respond. I haven't been on the site since my last post. Pretty much gave up.
It will charge but only in one direction. If that makes sense. Pins in the USB c port got damaged so now it only charges if you plug it one way not either way. So the port isn't bidirectional. Video out and the USB don't work either. That's why I was hoping this would work since I can't use my dongle or computer to boot into cfw.
Is there a chip responsible for the USB data I could try and replace?

I think either some traces going to the USB port on the motherboard got damaged during your Trinket install attempt or the port itself got damaged (less likely).

I also don't think a chip got damaged, otherwise your Switch won't even charge at all. At this point, I think you're better off having someone experienced with repairing Switches take a look.
 
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vincentallen2

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Update: the issue is fixed.

Hey everyone! I need a little assistance.
So my RCM-X86 finally arrived in the mail yesterday, and I installed it as soon as could on my unpatched gen 1 switch.

After getting everything done and set up on the software side (UF2 files), I was successfully able to boot up SXOS like normal.

The issue is, when I tried to check for game updates on Tinfoil, I noticed the logs saying there was an internet connection. I also didn't see the new games category.

I checked my internet settings, and wifi connects successfully to both of my homes 2.4ghz and 5ghz, as well as my mobile Hotspot.

I went into the patched YouTube, and it wasn't able to connect either.

After this, I booted into sysnand and I had the exact same problem. I also noticed that both sysnand and Emunands clock times were incorrect.

These issues weren't present before I installed the chip. I went back in, resoldered my points, and checked the Wi-Fi antenna connections just to be sure, and I'm still having this issue.

Has anyone experienced anything like this?
Or better yet, know what my step is to fix this issue?

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note10+ using Tapatalk
 
Last edited by vincentallen2,

dekuleon

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@mattytrog Hey man... as you're the master of the Switch board, I came here humbly asking for your help.

I did a ReBug install but I forgot to remove the battery... and now the Switch doesn't talk with the PC or Dongle. I removed the Rebug and all the wires, I was doing the 5 Wire install.

The Switch in on AutoRCM but can't receive any payload, and the PC says it didn't recognize the USB thing plugged in.

A P13USB filter was open and my friend replaced it and it is still not working.

Any ideas? I came here asking for your help after trying, but now you're my hope.

Thanks in advance! :)
 

pure3d2

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@mattytrog Hey man... as you're the master of the Switch board, I came here humbly asking for your help.

I did a ReBug install but I forgot to remove the battery... and now the Switch doesn't talk with the PC or Dongle. I removed the Rebug and all the wires, I was doing the 5 Wire install.

The Switch in on AutoRCM but can't receive any payload, and the PC says it didn't recognize the USB thing plugged in.

A P13USB filter was open and my friend replaced it and it is still not working.

Any ideas? I came here asking for your help after trying, but now you're my hope.

Thanks in advance! :)

Does the Switch still power on and do fast charging? It's possible you fried the charge controller chip and/or the video chip and maybe the ReBug as well.
 

pure3d2

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The Rebug is removed.
It charges, yes, but it's in RCM mode and won't receive the payload from the dongle or PC.

How do you know it's in RCM mode? It's not even being detected by the PC. Does it even turn on? If you're not getting 3V on the 3V point, then it's not on. Have you checked for shorts on capacitors near the charge controller or the video chip?
 

dekuleon

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How do you know it's in RCM mode? It's not even being detected by the PC. Does it even turn on? If you're not getting 3V on the 3V point, then it's not on. Have you checked for shorts on capacitors near the charge controller or the video chip?
Because it was set to AutoRCM before.
I know it's ON because the PC doesn't detect anything but when I press power it detects a Unknown device.
 

kristal1991

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if I connect volume up to gnd of the chip I can make it work only when I take volume up but if I connect in charge it always turns up the volume, it would be nice if the chip would power it only if it is pressed the power key of the switch
 

pure3d2

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is it possible to power up the rcm chip when pressing the power button of switch?

if I connect volume up to gnd of the chip I can make it work only when I take volume up but if I connect in charge it always turns up the volume, it would be nice if the chip would power it only if it is pressed the power key of the switch

What's the name of your chip? The way it's wired, it can only be powered up when the Switch is turned on. That's the whole point of the mod.

There isn't a way to power on the switch without also turning on the modchip.
 
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kristal1991

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[QUOTE = "pure3d2, post: 9198703, member: 409733"] se collego il volume fino al gnd del chip posso farlo funzionare solo quando alzo il volume ma se mi collego in carica alza semper il volume, si sarebbe bello se il chip lo alimentasse solo se viene premuto il tasto di accensione dell'interruttore

Qual è il nome del tuo chip? Il modo in cui è cablato, può essere acceso solo quando lo Switch è acceso. Questo è il punto centrale del mod.

Non è possibile accendere senza attivare anche il modchip.
chip rcmx86 amico mio del pulsante di accensione quale voltaggio è ?
 
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NeoLTK

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Hi, everything has been going well for a long time with the assembly I have ( method 3)

Today my trinket no longer seems to detect the rcm mode and does not inject me with a payload

what is strange is that I can flash it without problem the trinket from the usb C and Joycon and volume strap work well too
injection with tegrarcm also works.

After updating the triket flashes red at start-up then goes out

Do you have a clue as to which could cause this problem?

Update :

I tried to change the trinket and redo all the welding which was already good for me
Knowing that I did it on several machines still functional

in short It didn't change anything, always the same bug

Could this come from the welding of the Vol + strap which will touch another component?

seeing that this welding is complicated I did it only on my machine and no other (the most complicated for me)
 
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White_Raven_X

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Hi, everything has been going well for a long time with the assembly I have ( method 3)

Today my trinket no longer seems to detect the rcm mode and does not inject me with a payload

what is strange is that I can flash it without problem the trinket from the usb C and Joycon and volume strap work well too
injection with tegrarcm also works.

After updating the triket flashes red at start-up then goes out

Do you have a clue as to which could cause this problem?

Update :

I tried to change the trinket and redo all the welding which was already good for me
Knowing that I did it on several machines still functional

in short It didn't change anything, always the same bug

Could this come from the welding of the Vol + strap which will touch another component?

seeing that this welding is complicated I did it only on my machine and no other (the most complicated for me)
Sounds to me like your battery or ground connection may not be fully connected/soldered. Give that a look and let us know.
*edit*
If you don't want to "Re-solder" then use your multimeter and "ring" out your connections and monitor your resistance between your soldered connections and the trinket
 
Last edited by White_Raven_X,
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NeoLTK

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Sounds to me like your battery or ground connection may not be fully connected/soldered. Give that a look and let us know.
*edit*
If you don't want to "Re-solder" then use your multimeter and "ring" out your connections and monitor your resistance between your soldered connections and the trinket

indeed a resistance problem in the cable could explain the strange behavior

And so an oxidation of the cables could explain the sudden change in the correct functioning of the trinket which will cause the increase in resistance

* Since the change of the trinket it works very very rarely and most of the time when the switch is cold ( off for a while, about 12 hours after a game session )

My switch is turning into freemium with a crappy payment system xD

Thank you for your answer I check this
 
Last edited by NeoLTK,

AlexisPR1

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Hello :) !

Just finished to install Trinket M0 in my Switch V1 with all straps except Vol+. Trinket was flashed with last Fuse_suite UF2s.

With Vol+ and Power, the Switch just boot in OFW. But, if i put a JIG, works well (like it may work ...).

Do you have some Idea ?
Thanks a lot ! Alexis.
 

apomaresa

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Hello and greetings to all.

I come to thank you for such an excellent post, I have done it and everything worked correctly.

This was the configuration I used:

1 - Switch V1.
2 - Trinket M0
3 - Flash File Part2.
4 - Solder 4 wires (3V, GND, Data +, Data-)

On the micro SD, I have Heckate as payload.bin and set autoCRM to not have to use JIG. Atmosphere running in its latest version.

Some recommendations for those who want to try this, it is patience, delicacy and A MAGNIFIER! The contacts are very small and if you are not careful you can damage them.

In my case, I did not remove the metal plate, nor did I remove the microusb port of the Trinket. I placed the trinket on the metal plate, separating it with electrical tape and used a male microusb jack to connect and disconnect the Trinket without so much effort.

These are some images of my first attempt...

Img 1.jpg
Img 2.jpg
 
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White_Raven_X

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indeed a resistance problem in the cable could explain the strange behavior

And so an oxidation of the cables could explain the sudden change in the correct functioning of the trinket which will cause the increase in resistance

* Since the change of the trinket it works very very rarely and most of the time when the switch is cold ( off for a while, about 12 hours after a game session )

My switch is turning into freemium with a crappy payment system xD

Thank you for your answer I check this

Did you solve your problem? I just re-read your last message and I'm wondering if you always have the lights on your trinket when your switch is on? If so, that's a problem. You should only see the trinket lights on when your either injecting the switch manually or with the straps or if your plugged into your computer.
Please clarify for me. Thanks
 

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