Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

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RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

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ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

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Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[Daddy_Daycare]

I haven't made it home yet but in thinking about things I wanted to make sure I programmed the gemma correctly.

I connected to the PC. Pressed reset 2 times and then copied part 1 of fusee.
After it copied and the gemma rebooted I pressed reset 2 times and then copied part 2.

 

[edwardsalazar97]

I haven't made it home yet but in thinking about things I wanted to make sure I programmed the gemma correctly.

I connected to the PC. Pressed reset 2 times and then copied part 1 of fusee.
After it copied and the gemma rebooted I pressed reset 2 times and then copied part 2.

I have no doubt about the gemma since you indicate the correct blinking of the led, that is showing that it is not injecting the payload of the chip, not even that of the sd but rather the chip itself, so I fear some failure in its connection data

 

[Daddy_Daycare]

I have no doubt about the gemma since you indicate the correct blinking of the led, that is showing that it is not injecting the payload of the chip, not even that of the sd but rather the chip itself, so I fear some failure in its connection data

About as good a pic as I can get.
It was really pretty when I first soldered it up but I've messed with it so much the pads are starting to come up.
I'm about done with it honestly. I have no clue. I have tried the USB pads on both sides of the switch mobo with no luck. Currently have the connections going to the back.

 

[edwardsalazar97]

About as good a pic as I can get.
It was really pretty when I first soldered it up but I've messed with it so much the pads are starting to come up.
I'm about done with it honestly. I have no clue. I have tried the USB pads on both sides of the switch mobo with no luck. Currently have the connections going to the back.

What I see at the moment is that you do not have the USB data cables connected, I imagine that for the photo, another important point is that the cables you use are too long.

 

[Daddy_Daycare]

What I see at the moment is that you do not have the USB data cables connected, I imagine that for the photo, another important point is that the cables you use are too long.

Thanks for your help. I think I'm just going to call it. I don't know if something got messed up when my son yanked the charging cord out but I have tried both sets of data points on the switch mobo. Front and back. I've also soldered and resoldered the points on the gemma and nothing changes.

 

[pure3d2]

Thanks for your help. I think I'm just going to call it. I don't know if something got messed up when my son yanked the charging cord out but I have tried both sets of data points on the switch mobo. Front and back. I've also soldered and resoldered the points on the gemma and nothing changes.

Does your Switch still work (charge from USB-C port with original charger)?

 

[vincentallen2]

hey guys, I have a RCM-X86 coming in the mail, so i'm finally going to tackle this project.

I have a question about soldering straps to one of the alternate 3V pads next to the joycon pads. are we supposed to bridge the points together or just one of the points? this same question goes for the Joy-con pads too. The diagrams on the OP show just one of each pad circled, but I've seen pictures of people bridging the twom points together and then strapping that point. ive also seen pictures of the user just soldering one of the two pads on each of the points im referring too.

I'll attach pictures.

 

[pure3d2]

hey guys, I have a RCM-X86 coming in the mail, so i'm finally going to tackle this project.

I have a question about soldering straps to one of the alternate 3V pads next to the joycon pads. are we supposed to bridge the points together or just one of the points? this same question goes for the Joy-con pads too. The diagrams on the OP show just one of each pad circled, but I've seen pictures of people bridging the twom points together and then strapping that point. ive also seen pictures of the user just soldering one of the two pads on each of the points im referring too.

I'll attach pictures.

Probe the points with a multimeter. If you hear a beep, it means they're the same point, so they're already connected somehow.

 

[vincentallen2]

Probe the points with a multimeter. If you hear a beep, it means they're the same point, so they're already connected somehow.

Thanks! I was hoping that someone who has already soldered to these points or is knowledgeable would be able to give me a little advice, but I'll definitely probe them once my chip arrives if no one is able to help me before then.

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk

 

[PizzaBitez]

Thanks for the tutorial!.

 

[Dolphin678]

Okay so I've got a bit of trouble with my Trinket. I have Fusee Suite flashed to it, but while booting it up I guess I held down the vol + or something because now a red light blinks 9 times after the green light shows after injecting a seemingly nonexistent payload or failing to find RCM. Because of that, now it doesn't boot using the Trinket from RCM. I can still get to stock while booting the Switch normally. Would anyone happen to know how I can get this back to normal?

 

[Trixzy]

anyone know why it says usb strap not detected, i’ve tried using both points on the motherboard to the trinket and got the same result for both

 

[Drallert]

Hey guys, I'm a bit lost with all this "modchip" stuff, I just want to know if following this procedure I will be able to load CFW on a Mariko Switch (with RCM exploit patched) so that I can load some homebrew (you know, save and theme managers and stuff like that).

Thank you very much in advance

 

[Dolphin678]

Hey guys, I'm a bit lost with all this "modchip" stuff, I just want to know if following this procedure I will be able to load CFW on a Mariko Switch (with RCM exploit patched) so that I can load some homebrew (you know, save and theme managers and stuff like that).

Thank you very much in advance

I do not believe that there is any Mariko support as of yet.

 

[Purple_Heart]

For mariko you need SX Core

 

[Drallert]

I do not believe that there is any Mariko support as of yet.

For mariko you need SX Core

Oh okay, thank you for the info. I guess I'll have to keep waiting. Just one more thing, is there any powerful reason to go through all this trouble (opening the console, soldering components, etc.) when it's only appliable to non-patched consoles? My point is, why would you want to do all of this if you can just boot into RCM via jig and load whichever CFW you want from there?

I don't intend to offend anyone, I just want to know the reason for all this setup; I've been doing some googling and haven't found a good reason, at least for me.

Again, tyvm in advance

 

[Dolphin678]

Just one more thing, is there any powerful reason to go through all this trouble (opening the console, soldering components, etc.) when it's only appliable to non-patched consoles? My point is, why would you want to do all of this if you can just boot into RCM via jig and load whichever CFW you want from there?

I don't intend to offend anyone, I just want to know the reason for all this setup; I've been doing some googling and haven't found a good reason, at least for me.

Again, tyvm in advance

It's mostly convenience, so you don't have to carry a jig and payload injector everywhere and so it's always right there. I've found mine to be quite useful, until it started acting up, and I don't quite know how to fix it besides replacing it. This also does allow booting whatever CFW you want with Fusee Suite, just as long as the payload is named payload.bin on the root of the SD card.

 

[Drallert]

It's mostly convenience, so you don't have to carry a jig and payload injector everywhere and so it's always right there. I've found mine to be quite useful, until it started acting up, and I don't quite know how to fix it besides replacing it.

Ah okay, okay, then it makes sense. It surely must be pretty annoying to carry everything, especially when you have that setup with the CFW emunand and the clean sysnand. Anyway, thanks for the clarification.

 

[Dolphin678]

Ah okay, okay, then it makes sense. It surely must be pretty annoying to carry everything, especially when you have that setup with the CFW emunand and the clean sysnand. Anyway, thanks for the clarification.

No problem! I've actually switched to just booting CFW on the sysNAND and I haven't been banned yet, as I don't install any NSPs. I mostly use it because of sys-tune overlay, but save editing Animal Crossing on occasion is also fun.

 

[kermit84]

Hi i have a question is these pink marked capacitor 2,2uf beginn 6,3v too ?