Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[dzdncfsd]

Strange thing happening with my Switch. It's been working just fine since the above mod, but last night when I tried to use it, the screen was black, despite it being on and otherwise functional. I can hear the UI sounds when I move the joysticks, the touchscreen works (I can hear clicking when I tap it). I've tried turning the console off completely. When I power on the switch from off, there is no display at any point. I've tried using a flashlight to see if its a broken backlight, and suspect it might be - I can see the UI. If I plug it into a dock, the green light glows, and I can see output on the TV.

I opened it up and disconnected and reconnected the battery, but no change. I've checked the connections and they seemed okay. The M0 end of the USB strap wire seemed a little loose, so I re-soldered it, but still no change.

Any suggestions what the problem might be? Like I said, the Switch was working fine for several days before-hand, so unsure why this might have suddenly occurred.

*Fixed!*. Don't know what caused this issue in the first place, but I disconnected the battery for a while, wiggled the ribbon cables again, and the screen came back. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯.

Edit 1: initially said I couldn't see UI with a flashlight, but on further inspection, was able to.
Edit 2: initially said I couldn't get anything up on the TV when docked, but have now been able to.
Edit 3: fixed for now.

This has happened again today. Both times the issue presented itself after I had the Switch charging for some period of time, though I can't say for sure that it has any relevance. Any suggestions what the problem might be? Is it possible this is some kind of software or power/battery issue where the Switch isn't thinking it needs to turn on the backlight?

 

[Maikaeli]

So I just attempted this mod and tried to do the original 3.3v connection, but bridged it with the point right above where you're supposed to solder (I've linked a picture of what I did). I freaked out, and tried to boot my switch after I noticed the bridge. It didn't turn on.

Since I messed up, I decided "I already messed up this board, let's keep connecting" so I soldered up all the wires just in-case I come back to this switch and fix it one day. Well, after I soldered all 7 wires I wanted to use, and a new 3.3v point (I used the one under the eMMC module), I decided "hey lets try to turn on the system" and what do you know, it booted!

The only problem that I'm getting is that once I turn on the console, it works, but if I turn it off and boot into RCM, it won't boot CFW/be recognized by a computer. I've tested for a couple hours and came to the conclusion that I've having the same problem as this:

This has happened again today. Both times the issue presented itself after I had the Switch charging for some period of time, though I can't say for sure that it has any relevance. Any suggestions what the problem might be? Is it possible this is some kind of software or power/battery issue where the Switch isn't thinking it needs to turn on the backlight?

I can only turn on my Switch after being powered off after I disconnect the battery cable in the switch. Do I need to unbridge this connection? Is it safe to continue using my switch with this bridged? (I've ordered flux to help desolder the bridged connection already). Thanks for the help in advanced!

 

[dzdncfsd]

Potential differences with my setup are that:

• I did six wires (I didn't attach the Vol+ strap)
• I didn't even attempt the typical 3.3V connection to the tiny capacitor, I have connected it to the EMMC from the get go. For what it's worth, I'm convinced the 3.3V connection works because even with the switch off, if I press the Trinket's button through the back case, I see it light up.
• My Switch is turning on, the screen's backlight is not though. I can see the menus etc if I shine a flashlight directly onto the screen, and I can hear the UI response sounds when moving the sticks or pressing buttons.

The weird thing for me is that twice now it's behaved as I'd expect, and then 5-6 days later, the backlight no longer works. I'm planning to open the back again this weekend and disconnect the battery for a while to see if it comes back again. But, it'd be nice to know if there's anything else I can do to try and rectify this

 

[dzdncfsd]

Left the switch battery unplugged overnight, No luck getting the backlight lit. Spent some time today checking solder points. They all seemed okay but I re-did a few anyway. I also tested connections and it seems they are working. Still not getting the backlight back . One more thing I've noticed - when the Switch is on, and I can hear the UI sounds generally with the volume turned up, I don't hear a disconnect or connect sound play with the right joy-con, like I do with the left. The right joy con does work though, both connected and wirelessly. Is that expected?

Any other suggestions as to what I might do to try and fix this? (thanks if you are around @mattytrog or @pyorin for any suggestions).

SOLVED! Thanks to a youtube video relating to a Switch with a backlight problem, I realised one of the two ribbon cables near the joy con strap is what gives the backlight power. I disconnected it and gave it a bit of a clean, and we're back in business!

 

[Magic009]

How can i install rcmloader into my switch? I have solderind station.

 

[Magic009]

What you think guys?
1-The blue give 0.12 in both (i think are D+ and D-).
2-The black give 0.00 and 0.01(i think that is GND).
3-The red give 3.31 (i think that is vdd).

 

[Hayato213]

What you think guys?
1-The blue give 0.12 in both (i think are D+ and D-).
2-The black give 0.00 and 0.01(i think that is GND).
3-The red give 3.31 (i think that is vdd).

Use one of the chip on the list, like a trinket m0.

 

[Magic009]

What you think guys?
1-The blue guve 0.12 in both (i think are D+ and D-).
2-The black give 0.00 and 0.01(i think that is GND).
3-The red give 3.31 (i think that is vdd).

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

What you think guys?

1-i think blue are D+ and D- (both in 0.12).
2-i think black is GND because mark 0.00 or 0.01.
3-Red maybe can be the VDD because mark 3.31.

Use one of the chip on the list, like a trinket m0.

Yes, but, i think, this can run without problem, the sxpro dongle internal install.

 

[Hayato213]

Yes, but, i think, this can run without problem.

Except you don't have a pin layout that is the problem. We are not responsible if you bricked

 

[Magic009]

Except you don't have a pin layout that is the problem. We are not responsible if you bricked

I know, but sxpro dongle have pin layout?

 

[Hayato213]

I know, but sxpro dongle have pin layout?

Not on this thread this thread is specifically for the SAMD 21 Chipset. I know the SX OS dongle is doable but you need the correct pin layout, if you don't know, or can't source it. Use one of the chip from the opening post.

 

[Magic009]

Not on this thread this thread is specifically for the SAMD 21 Chipset. I know the SX OS dongle is doable but you need the correct pin layout, if you don't know, or can't source it. Use one of the chip from the opening post.

Where can i buy it?

 

[Hayato213]

Ok, where can i buy it?

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------


Where can i buy it?

You can get the trinket m0 on Amazon

 

[chronoss]

Hi !

Someone can tell me what'is the last file that i used with my Trinket ?

 

[Daddy_Daycare]

Need a little help if possible. Long story short the solder pads for the joy on strap got pulled up on my switch. So now the right joy on is not connecting when in the joy on rail. It still work but only via blue tooth. This also means I can't enter rcm.
Does anyone know another point on the board that I could use a jumper with that would solve my issue and get my joycon/rcm working again?
Thanks

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Sorry it's the joycon strap pads. Phone autocorrected.

 

[HarmonyUnited]

Hello friends, I have just spent the better part of a day researching how to get my Trinket M0 hard-modded Switch to power back on after accidentally allowing it to discharge fully. I have tried leaving it charging over night in dock and just with official psu direct. I have tried all manner of button combinations on start up. This is all happening after many many months of smooth trinket mo injecting e

Here is the behavior: I left it emulating mario 64 and put into standby, next day realized battery died. Plugged in over night... next day i go to turn on, hold volume up and hit power, payload light on trinket blinks and goes green as in a successful injection but the screen does not light up or boot. The trinket mo will stay on as when i press vol button the red light shines. Sometimes i can get the backlight to flicker but nothing past that. No bootloader menu... I do have auto RCM enabled on the machine. Not sure if my issue is the same as all the others on the forums out there...

Ive double checked wiring is all good... Any ideas would be so super appreciated!

Thanks for any help!

 

[pure3d2]

Hello friends, I have just spent the better part of a day researching how to get my Trinket M0 hard-modded Switch to power back on after accidentally allowing it to discharge fully. I have tried leaving it charging over night in dock and just with official psu direct. I have tried all manner of button combinations on start up. This is all happening after many many months of smooth trinket mo injecting e

Here is the behavior: I left it emulating mario 64 and put into standby, next day realized battery died. Plugged in over night... next day i go to turn on, hold volume up and hit power, payload light on trinket blinks and goes green as in a successful injection but the screen does not light up or boot. The trinket mo will stay on as when i press vol button the red light shines. Sometimes i can get the backlight to flicker but nothing past that. No bootloader menu... I do have auto RCM enabled on the machine. Not sure if my issue is the same as all the others on the forums out there...

Ive double checked wiring is all good... Any ideas would be so super appreciated!

Thanks for any help!

Is it sitting in the dock or have the USB cable/charger plugged into the Switch? If so, take it out of the dock or unplug the USB cable from the Switch.

If the Switch is fully off and you plug the USB cable/charger in, it will power up in RCM mode (black screen) and continue to be on there until the USB cable is unplugged.

 

[Daddy_Daycare]

Gemma Install
Stuck and could use some help

I am doing a gemma install. When I turn it on it goes into rcm but the screen just stays black. The gemma flashes yellow a few times then red then there is a slight pause followed by 1 last red flash. There is nothing on the screen. Sx loader is on my sd named payload.bin

Here is what I've done so far
Connected gemma to PC. Pressed reset 2 times and then copied the 2 uf2 files from the link in the instructions.
Then I connected all my straps using the guide. I have all of them connected vol +, joycon etc.
I have checked my USB connections multiple times.
I have no clue what I am missing.
My 4 year old broke the USB c port on my switch by yanking out the cord. It still charges but I can't boot into cfw that way any longer so I was hoping this would allow me to get back into cfw.
Thanks in advance.

 

[edwardsalazar97]

Gemma Install
Stuck and could use some help

I am doing a gemma install. When I turn it on it goes into rcm but the screen just stays black. The gemma flashes yellow a few times then red then there is a slight pause followed by 1 last red flash. There is nothing on the screen. Sx loader is on my sd named payload.bin

Here is what I've done so far
Connected gemma to PC. Pressed reset 2 times and then copied the 2 uf2 files from the link in the instructions.
Then I connected all my straps using the guide. I have all of them connected vol +, joycon etc.
I have checked my USB connections multiple times.
I have no clue what I am missing.
My 4 year old broke the USB c port on my switch by yanking out the cord. It still charges but I can't boot into cfw that way any longer so I was hoping this would allow me to get back into cfw.
Thanks in advance.

first as a tip try atmosphere, second attach a high resolution image of your installation to see what we have

 

[Daddy_Daycare]

first as a tip try atmosphere, second attach a high resolution image of your installation to see what we have

Ok I will as soon as I get home