Hardware Nintendo Switch, repairing damaged or lifted pads on USB-C port !

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FXDX

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@FXDX hey!

first, thanks for this great thread! :-)

I've got a switch wehre some pads are saying .OL in diode mode (1.png). I checked your initial post and followed the wires from pad 6 and 7 to the CPU.. do you think the CPU is damaged, or is there anything else which is causing .OL on these pads?

For additional infos please check out this post: https://gbatemp.net/threads/usb-c-pin-nr-5-has-got-only-3-volts-switch-wont-turn-on.562548/

thanks!

The measurements made with the motherboard mounted and the battery installed?
It is possible that on the tracks with the problem there is actually a short under the Tegra processor and it requires a reball. You can try a reflow to see what happens, if you do not have the opportunity to reball. I don't think the CPU has anything physical. It's probably just a matter of soldering between the processor and the board.
 
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seidolino

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hey!

the measurements were made without battery and not mounted, but I did some measures on a different board without battery etc.. and it has got the correct values.. so I guess it's really the cpu.

okay.. I removed a CPU in the past and I got off more or less smooth, but today I tried it on a differend board, I heated at the CPU with 400°C and some air flow and it didn't got off after 15 minutes! completely crazy, was a water damaged board. I'll try some reflow with flux. can you recommend for how long I should heat up the cpu?

thanks!
 
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FXDX

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hey!

the measurements were made without battery and not mounted, but I did some measures on a different board without battery etc.. and it has got the correct values.. so I guess it's really the cpu.

okay.. I removed a CPU in the past and I got off more or less smooth, but today I tried it on a differend board, I heated at the CPU with 400°C and some air flow and it didn't got off after 15 minutes! completely crazy, was a water damaged board. I'll try some reflow with flux. can you recommend for how long I should heat up the cpu?

thanks!

It depends on the hot air station you have. 380-420 degrees maximum is enough and with an air flow of 25-35%. A quality flux, Amtech 559 and working distance not very close to the processor. You start with a temperature of 120 degrees a minute then increase to 180 degrees for another minute and then go up to 400 degrees. After 6-8 minutes you could easily touch the processor to see if it moves it would mean that the tin balls have liquefied and theoretically you would have a successful reflow. It would be perfect if you had a reball station and then you had the temperature controlled with a correct diagram. You can use a diagram for a laptop CPU.
 
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seidolino

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thanks a lot for the detailed description, I'll try it tomorrow :-)

In the meantime I continued with the other (water damaged) mainboard, just for practicing. I wasn't able to get the CPU off the board again. I already got the CPU off of another board, just that you don't think I'm crazy, but I was able to get CPU off the board only by sheer force. I had to use tweezers unterneath it.. I guess there was some kind of glue, or the chip itself melted onto the board because of the water damage. Were you ever facing this such an issue?

As already mentioned I'll continue with the other mainboard tomorrow.
 

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FXDX

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thanks a lot for the detailed description, I'll try it tomorrow :-)

In the meantime I continued with the other (water damaged) mainboard, just for practicing. I wasn't able to get the CPU off the board again. I already got the CPU off of another board, just that you don't think I'm crazy, but I was able to get CPU off the board only by sheer force. I had to use tweezers unterneath it.. I guess there was some kind of glue, or the chip itself melted onto the board because of the water damage. Were you ever facing this such an issue?

As already mentioned I'll continue with the other mainboard tomorrow.

Watch here my video, maybe can help you :

https://gbatemp.net/threads/nintendo-switch-bsod-fix-reballing-emmc-soc-nvidia-tegra.563266/
 

seidolino

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@FXDX

I did a reballing today (took me the whole afternoon :-D) but still the same issue on these pads. I also checked the pins on the CPU itself, but there was no short. So can this issue be caused by something else?

thanks!
 

FXDX

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@FXDX

I did a reballing today (took me the whole afternoon :-D) but still the same issue on these pads. I also checked the pins on the CPU itself, but there was no short. So can this issue be caused by something else?

thanks!
Congratulations on reballing, but i do not understand..... Why did you reball to the processor? BSOD problems?
 

seidolino

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thanks :-) the switch won't turn on. I reballed the CPU because of these problems:

@FXDX hey!

first, thanks for this great thread! :-)

I've got a switch wehre some pads are saying .OL in diode mode (1.png). I checked your initial post and followed the wires from pad 6 and 7 to the CPU.. do you think the CPU is damaged, or is there anything else which is causing .OL on these pads?

For additional infos please check out this post: https://gbatemp.net/threads/usb-c-pin-nr-5-has-got-only-3-volts-switch-wont-turn-on.562548/

thanks!

or please check out my post from Apr 26, 2020
 

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guyman70718

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hello, I am curious as to why you left out SBU2, RX1, and TX2 from the pinouts. I found where they go, but are they not necessary for anything (docking, usb bluetooth dongle, etc)?
 

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Hi ,
dreds here
Just joined and am interested in this sort of thing ,
Done a few repairs a while ago on 360 s and a few PS4’s but I like the intricate work done on Nintendo switches ..
have a question for @FXDX
I have a switch with 3 pads left lol !! I tried to run wire to pads but not successful, I get 0.17- 0.20 where as before I got 0 ..
I have a feeling I’m going to have to run jumper wires from front pins and back ones also .. I have 0 pads left on the hidden pins ..
I see you put a bit of connector cable and soldered to that , could I solder directly to the pins , I know this is not going to be an easy task but I like a challenge
You did an amazing job on this port , !!!! Really amazing work !!
I’ll upload some pics

thank you
Dreds
4F14B18C-2C12-4E9A-B50C-772F00EB749C.jpeg
C20C8984-AB08-4325-92D3-77A487233FC1.jpeg
 
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FXDX

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I tried buying these and using them for usb pads but I cannot get them to stick down. I used UV curable mask and it does not cure below the pad so heat makes it move again.
When using UV mask, cover the pad with mask and after putting the UV lamp 2-3 minutes with a spatula, clean the hardening mask from the surface you want free for tining. It will work without fail. Look carefully at the video above to see what I'm talking about
 
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ppzikos

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IMG_123.JPG IMG_125.JPG IMG_131.JPG IMG_136.JPG IMG_149.JPG IMG_151.JPG IMG_153.JPG IMG_156.JPG IMG_157.JPG

100% ok charge good , dock good , rcm good! i use copper of ribbon cable removed with scalpel , solder with "TS100 + ILS" , + 4 hours of work.

edit : i use a fiberglass pen , it's wonderfull for this job.
edit 2 : use a ultra thin paintbrush for nails art, for uv mask , clean paintbrush with ipa.
the first black in picture :
https://www.amazon.fr/ENET-Ultra-Mi...&keywords=pinceau+fin&qid=1622844073&sr=8-103

thanks fxdx for this post , i look this often !!
 
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