Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[bobbyz]

I'm confused by this Gemma install pic... I haven't got my Gemma yet, and maybe it'll become more noticeable when I do... But do I have a but do I have a bunch of crap to remove from this board? What's the two things that are X'd... Battery holder top I think? Idk on the left/that red box? Do I remove the red box? Lol. Also, do I remove the USB port? It's not shown removed in this pic?

Yeah, you're going to want to remove all of the things that are X'd out. It's mostly to slim the thing down. The little red line shown under the on/off switch shows you where to solder a little bridge so you can remove that switch as well.

 

[bobbyz]

So I just finished a gemma m0 install with the full 7 wires and I'm really happy with it. Thank you so much @mattytrog and @pyorin and everyone else in this thread who posted support/feedback/pictures/etc for everyone. I skimmed through the whole 162 pages of the thread before installing and all the info definitely helped!

That said, I bungled something somewhere because my computer no longer recognizes the switch when plugged in via USB.

The one mistake I know I made is with two of the 100k resistors next to the USB power delivery chip. I think I fixed it properly, but not 100% sure. Could these two resistors have any impact on USB data? I figured they would be related to charging and not data. USB charging itself still works right now. I checked some of the other things that a couple other folks had issues with for USB data but nothing is sticking out to me. If these two resistors wouldn't be the culprit, then I'll dig deeper and capture some photos of my own board too.

If I can't figure it out, then I'll gladly trade USB data for the trinket, though!

 

[Scettles]

Yeah, you're going to want to remove all of the things that are X'd out. It's mostly to slim the thing down. The little red line shown under the on/off switch shows you where to solder a little bridge so you can remove that switch as well.

so do i not need to remove the actuayl usb plug in on the gemma? or just optional? like itll fit on the metal casing in the airway part

 

[bobbyz]

so do i not need to remove the actuayl usb plug in on the gemma? or just optional? like itll fit on the metal casing in the airway part

If you cut the metal casing, then it'll fit. If you want it to fit on top of the casing and want to use your stock case, then you're going to have to remove as much as possible to trim it down. I removed the thick power port, the USB port, the on/off switch, and even the reset button itself and it just barely fits on the metal casing without a bulge.

 

[Scettles]

If you cut the metal casing, then it'll fit. If you want it to fit on top of the casing and want to use your stock case, then you're going to have to remove as much as possible to trim it down. I removed the thick power port, the USB port, the on/off switch, and even the reset button itself and it just barely fits on the metal casing without a bulge.

Got any pics of ur install? Would love to see

 

[MaterTip]

i got a trinket M0 here that after i plugged in a few times it now dont enter any boot form and just gets hot to the touch when plugged in, is she blown or could capacitors be replaced?

 

[PTMD_GAMING]

Hi I was wondoring do you bridge the points for the on / off switch on the Gemma m0

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Hi I was wondoring do u have to bridge the on / off button on the gemma m0

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Hi I was wondoring do u have to bridge the on / off button on the gemma m0

 

[jeklnoo]

Hi I was wondering do u have to post the same thing 3 times

 

[PTMD_GAMING]

Hi I was wondoring do you bridge the points for the on / off switch on the Gemma m0

 

[Deleted member 512337]

Hey dudes. Im sorry if this sounds stupid, but the volume+ alternative solder point is the same as the volume+ strap right? Do some of the alternative solder points only work on certain chips? Thank you.

 

[pure3d2]

Hey dudes. Im sorry if this sounds stupid, but the volume+ alternative solder point is the same as the volume+ strap right? Do some of the alternative solder points only work on certain chips? Thank you.

Yes. Alternative solder points means it's another choice you can make if the main one isn't to your liking. You just choose 1 out of all of the alts, though.

 

[Deleted member 512337]

Yes. Alternative solder points means it's another choice you can make if the main one isn't to your liking. You just choose 1 out of all of the alts, though.

Well thats okay since ive heard that the volume + strap point is super brittle and so are the other points where you solder to smd parts.

 

[pure3d2]

Well thats okay since ive heard that the volume + strap point is super brittle and so are the other points where you solder to smd parts.

I soldered to the pad which goes to the connector (yellow arrow):

 

[Deleted member 512337]

I soldered to the pad which goes to the connector (yellow arrow):

Super close to the other pins and im not very good at soldering, so ill just use the tp on the back

 

[Matius]

So I just finished a gemma m0 install with the full 7 wires and I'm really happy with it. Thank you so much @mattytrog and @pyorin and everyone else in this thread who posted support/feedback/pictures/etc for everyone. I skimmed through the whole 162 pages of the thread before installing and all the info definitely helped!

That said, I bungled something somewhere because my computer no longer recognizes the switch when plugged in via USB.

The one mistake I know I made is with two of the 100k resistors next to the USB power delivery chip. I think I fixed it properly, but not 100% sure. Could these two resistors have any impact on USB data? I figured they would be related to charging and not data. USB charging itself still works right now. I checked some of the other things that a couple other folks had issues with for USB data but nothing is sticking out to me. If these two resistors wouldn't be the culprit, then I'll dig deeper and capture some photos of my own board too.

If I can't figure it out, then I'll gladly trade USB data for the trinket, though!

View attachment 208386

Hi.

"No longer" You mean after you installed the Trinket it worked then never worked, regarding USB?

or you mean, before Trinket install, it worked fine but after it doesn't?

Also, what wire did you use mate for the soldering?

 

[dzdncfsd]

Some answers to my own questions, now that I've gone through the process:

- Is an Itsy Bitsy m0 or Trinket m0 a better option? It looks like there's no removing of components for the former, but the latter seems to the be object of choice for most. I don't have a heat gun/rework station, so am leaning to the former.

I ended up going with the Trinket M0. It worked fine. I'm sure the other would too, but I was concerned that it would be harder to get help if things went wrong since most people seem to use the Trinket. In the end I borrowed a heat gun with small novel and the USB port removal was quick work.That said, when trying to clean up the trinket a little, I did lose one of the USB pads. Luckily it wasn't one of the ones needed for the project.

- Anything missing from this list of equipment before I were to proceed?

• Hakko FX-888D soldering iron with a T18-C05 tip
• No clean liquid rosen flux, suitable for lead free or leaded soldering (has a giant "DANGER" written on it, so I guess it meets the more deadly the better expectation)
• Magnet wire, 30AWG (I'm guessing 22 or 26 gauge is not a good option?)
• Leaded solder, 0.8mm (60/40 mix)
• 1cm wide kapton tape
• A very bright light

Added: Sharpie, cotton buds, scissors, iFixit tools, USB Microscope from amazon to this list. The T18-C05 tip is very thin and pointy and was good for some of the tasks, but I found it hard to get the right heat from it for some of the tasks, so I swapped between the standard tip that came with the iron with this one. I'm definitely glad I had it for some of the tiny pads though.

- What would be the appropriate temperature for the soldering iron?

It depended on the tip I used and the work being done. generally I tried to stick to around 350C, but went as high as 450c at times with the narrow tip,

- While I've done a fair bit of standard component soldering over the years, I've never done SMD soldering, and I'd really like to avoid trying to solder to SMD caps/resistors based on the number of issues I've read about on this thread. My plan is:

• Joycon strap - over on the left side of the board
• Ground/D+/D-/USB Strap - the usual suggested locations around/to the right of the Switch's USB port
• Vol+ strap - not planning to connect this. I don't mind holding two buttons down to get into the payload (not worried about burning fuses)

Which leaves the 3V. Any reason to choose the eMMC over the left hand side main PCB point, or perhaps a point on the other side of the switch pcb? Actually, is there any reason not to just use the pads on the other side of the PCB that @pyorin has shown for all points, or is running magnet wire from the top side m0 to the bottom side not a wise decision?

I ended up doing the Joycon strap on the left hand side of the board, the 3V point underneath the emmc board, and didn't do the Vol+ strap. I didn't go with the points under the main PCB as I realised there would be a lot more disassembly required.

Ultimately, it seems to have worked. I did reconnect the right joy con ribbon cable the wrong way the first time, but that was quickly and easily addressed. Thank again @mattytrog for the efforts in sharing how this can be done.

 

[dzdncfsd]

Strange thing happening with my Switch. It's been working just fine since the above mod, but last night when I tried to use it, the screen was black, despite it being on and otherwise functional. I can hear the UI sounds when I move the joysticks, the touchscreen works (I can hear clicking when I tap it). I've tried turning the console off completely. When I power on the switch from off, there is no display at any point. I've tried using a flashlight to see if its a broken backlight, and suspect it might be - I can see the UI. If I plug it into a dock, the green light glows, and I can see output on the TV.

I opened it up and disconnected and reconnected the battery, but no change. I've checked the connections and they seemed okay. The M0 end of the USB strap wire seemed a little loose, so I re-soldered it, but still no change.

Any suggestions what the problem might be? Like I said, the Switch was working fine for several days before-hand, so unsure why this might have suddenly occurred.

*Fixed!*. Don't know what caused this issue in the first place, but I disconnected the battery for a while, wiggled the ribbon cables again, and the screen came back. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯.

Edit 1: initially said I couldn't see UI with a flashlight, but on further inspection, was able to.
Edit 2: initially said I couldn't get anything up on the TV when docked, but have now been able to.
Edit 3: fixed for now.

 

[shadowLord05139]

Hi all was just wondering has anyone came across a issue where the right joycon wont connect with the joycon strap installed

 

[dzdncfsd]

Hi all was just wondering has anyone came across a issue where the right joycon wont connect with the joycon strap installed

I did on my initial install, as I’d taken the joycon ribbon cable out and when reasembling put it in upside down. Maybe check if you did the same?

 

[shadowLord05139]

I did on my initial install, as I’d taken the joycon ribbon cable out and when reasembling put it in upside down. Maybe check if you did the same?

This is what i thought at first but Upon disconnecting the joycon strap it works again, im starting to think the RCMX86 chips i got are dodgy the other one had pads not connected. I wonder if this one has bridged connections