Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

Devo552 · Mar 2, 2020

I am looking to get a chip. justt wanted to ask.
would this one work?
It’s 5v and 16mhz
Or do I need the 3v one?

Devo552 · Mar 2, 2020

Or would this be a better one?

vulp_vibes · Mar 2, 2020

Devo552 said:
I am looking to get a chip. justt wanted to ask.
would this one work?

this modchip method is only compatible with the Atmel SAMD21 microcontroller, and will only work with boards built around this chip. a number of common ones are listed in the opening post of the thread (trinket m0, rcm x86, etc).

Devo552 · Mar 2, 2020

Alright. So it must have the atsamd21 chip.
I am struggling to find one of the ones listed that wont take months to ship or cost too much.
Whats your thoughts on this one?
It is an ATSAMD21 Cortex m0.
Only thing is it has a wireless card built-in.
That shouldn't be a problem would it? I could possible remove the wireless board from the main samd21 board.

vulp_vibes · Mar 2, 2020

Devo552 said:
Whats your thoughts on this one?
It is an ATSAMD21 Cortex m0.

you would need to remove the wireless card, battery connector, and USB connector in order to make it fit; the height of the board needs to be considered. if cost is more of an issue than time, I would simply order an rcm x86 from aliexpress, if no reasonable alternative can be found.

Devo552 · Mar 2, 2020

I assumed the battery connector and usb port would need to be removed. I have a Switch Lite so I thought I would have to slim out the board as best as I can.
Thank you for your assistance it is greatly appreciated.
I really didnt want to buy something and then be stuck with a piece of hardware that wouldn't work,
But as long as it can work, I can have fun figuring out the rest.

vulp_vibes · Mar 2, 2020

Devo552 said:
I have a Switch Lite so I thought I would have to slim out the board as best as I can.

only original switch models manufactured before a certain date are vulnerable to the exploit this modchip solution uses; all switch lites have had this vulnerability patched and cannot be exploited. team xecuter purportedly has a solution in development for patched units, but information is thin on the ground. they should be sending units out to a small number of selected testers sometime in the coming weeks.

Devo552 · Mar 2, 2020

Well I had read this post in the thread Trinket] [Rebug] [Others] [Modchip Software] *NEW* Fusee_Suite UF2 packages
over in the backup loaders and modchips discussion.
And the last Q in the FAQs is in regards to the Switch Lite and patched devices.
That was why I felt confident that it should work.
If you have reason to think otherwise, I would be glad to hear.
Any and all information is greatly appreciated and I am always ready learn

mattytrog said:
V6_090220 full changelog:

Ability to use a bootlogo... Usage is as follows...

If bootloader/bootlogo.bmp is found, this will be shown by default.
If you want a special bootlogo, just for your modchip side (excluding hekate-side), rename your bootlogo to bootloader/bootlogo1.bmp.
If bootlogo1.bmp is found, this will be shown INSTEAD of bootlogo.bmp. This will free Hekate or whatever to use bootlogo.bmp as usual, permitting you to have 2 different bootlogos if you wish. (1 for fusee, 1 for Hekate).

Example:
You have a "Fusee" bootlogo you want to use at power-on and you have an "atmosphere" one you wish to use via Hekate.
Name the Fusee one bootlogo1.bmp and the Atmosphere one bootlogo.bmp (as Hekate will use it). Both will show in order.

To completely disable bootlogo from being rendered, this can be done in modchip settings or just place an empty file called "fusee_bootlogo_disabled" in bootloader folder. This will enable you to use the OEM boot animations from previous releases, if you wish.

Flat battery code is now checking battery voltage as well as a percentage of SOC (state of charge).

There were occasionally discrepancies between fusee / hekate / Horizon regarding battery percentage, which caused black screens for some people. This was due to Horizon thinking the battery was flat when it wasn`t and thinking it was charged when it was indeed flat.
So percentage AND voltage is checked now.

If both % and voltage are down, charging without booting (cutting out bootloop) will happen as it should.
If voltage is down, but % is being reported as higher, this will begin charging loop also. And visaversa.

Percentage and mV is shown on screen now.

Longer timeouts for screen dimming / screensaver

SD card is checked for mounting every half-second, via a resetting counter that triggers a refresh

A quick glance over the thread, people have asked why we cannot set chip particulars within Fusee directly... This is because, as of yet, I have not figured out how to enable serial over USB from the Switch / BPMP side. Other workarounds to this, are using one of the GPIOs that are currently connecting joycon, vol or USB and reprogramming the chip that way. I just don`t yet know enough about how the USB subsystem operates to implement a solution.

V6 full changelog:

Improved button polling for faster boot.

Long-press VOL+ has a "progress" graphic

Refactored all variables for easier hexedit

Screensaver added (bouncing Nintendo logo - can be toggled by button press (Blink 4 VOL+ long press)

Boot animations added - (1 = no bootlogo at all, 2 = static, 3 = sliding, 4 = wiping, 5 = "glitching")

Change colours of bootlogo and text (either Hexedit, or change in Arduino. Very easy to do!)

Screen dimming after period of inactivity

Tidied menus

Removed SD mount / remount upon every boot attempt - Speeds things up

New "button control" graphic on main screen. Less intrusive.

BLZ more assets, change colours upon decompression... Sneaky.

Typos and bugfixes behind the scenes. New ones probably added. I`m that daft.

Version 5_030120 (part 2) changelog...

Bug squishing...

VOL+ override (boots payload<x>.bin

VOL- override (boots bootloader/update.bin)

Rename any payload to "payload<x>", x being a number 1 - 8. This is for people who like to set their payload via SAMD hardware. Most people won`t bother with this...

Animated bootlogo available. Changeable in "long press" blink 3...

In "Blink 3" mode, (see above if you are thinking WTF is blink 3)...
Count the following blinks...

Blink 1 is white / black - non animated

Blink 2 is white / black - animated

Blink 3 (default) is white on red - non animated (for @metaljay)

Blink 4 is white on red animated

FAQ (in progress)

Q - I have just had a chip fitted, with all straps. I want to use Kosmos. What do I do?
A - Drag and Drop as described in top post. You are ready to go. No need for a "payload.bin". Go to sdsetup (google it) and build your SD card.

Q - I have just had a chip fitted, with some straps. I don`t know which ones. I want to use SXOS. What do I do?
A - Drag and drop both files. Download SX Loader (it is already called "payload.bin" for your convenience). Place on SD root, along with your boot.dat and licence.dat and you are away. You MAY be locked into dual-boot only if you do not have a VOL+ strap fitted. You may need to use a jig and enter RCM and activate autoRCM if you do not have VOL+ strap or joycon(NVidia home) strap.

Q - I cannot get my head around this whole "swap between autoRCM and dualboot" thing...
A- Look through your switch`s grille. When you press VOL+, you may see a light. If you do, great.Just hold until this light blinks. The FIRST BLINK! There are several "blinks". Let go at the first one to swap to dualboot / autoRCM.

Q - Why not just make a UF2 with Hekate or SXOS baked in?
A - Several reasons... Switchboot (my other project) is a Hekate mod that does this. The only downside, is that whenever a new Firmware comes out, you will be reflashing UF2 files. Nyx cannot be included in the SAMD chip flash as it is too big. Same with SXOS.

Q - Can I use Argon with this? Why not base it on Argon, with touch features and stuff?
A - Assets. Argon loads its icon assets from SD. This is designed so no INI / folders or ANYTHING is required. I want you to forget about this once installed!

Q - Why four versions?
A - Version 1 is the first version. Uses ASCII graphics for the battery asset. Characters manually placed. Framebuffer is actually vertical. Characters manually placed one by one.
A - Version 2 is the "new" version. Functionally identical to version 1. But this has a much more accurate battery asset made out of bitmapped graphics. Emulates the OEM version. Slightly bigger in size, due to bitmap arrays. I could make it tiny by using BLZ compression. But I couldn`t be bothered compressing them. Framebuffer is horizontal and mirrored to run from left to right. Just changing to horizontal turns all characters back to front, as you would expect.
A - Version 3 tidies things up a little, adds an info screen with strap information
A - Version 4 brings most "Switchboot" functions to this. Safe backup of PRODINFO etc etc, backup / restore (including small "blank" BOOT0), payload selection, renaming features, etc etc.
A - Version 5 lets you name any payload to payload<x>.bin (from 1 - 8) for SAMD hardware payload selection. Animated start logo, which can be disabled or changed to red

Q - How do I use the SXOS licence regenerate feature?
A - Refer to this post - [Had to remove link do to ru

Q - Is there any reason I MUST use a particular payload? ie Hekate?
A - No. If you don`t want to use Hekate (as excellent as it is), you don`t need to. It will make your life easier making an EmuMMC though! But no. Once your EmuMMC is made, however you do it, you can just use Fusee-Primary.

Q - Will there be updates to this?
A - Not really. Any bugs I may find, I`ll fix. But no... There will NEVER be any reason you MUST update. V1,2,3 and 4 operate basically all the same. No sigpatches are needed or ini`s or anything. Nothing needs to be done when a new FW comes out. If I do put out any new versions, will be just to add features. But, if in 5 years time, you are still using V1, thats fine.

Q - Are you working on iPatched / Mariko / Lite support?
A - Yes! Testing collapsing the stack, post payload by alternative means is a success. However, I have no lite/Mariko boards to properly confirm it is "working". To test, it needs a Trinket fitting to a Mariko unit. Just as we do with the unpatched units. Nobody has bothered to do this yet. If anyone fancies swapping a Mariko for an unpatched board / unit, PM me.

vulp_vibes · Mar 2, 2020

Devo552 said:
Well I had read this post in the thread Trinket] [Rebug] [Others] [Modchip Software] *NEW* Fusee_Suite UF2 packages
over in the backup loaders and modchips discussion.

@mattytrog would be able to explain it better than I could, as he developed the software. if he truly had a solution for patched units/lites and was poised to beat xecuter to the punch, I'm sure we would have heard about it in earnest by now

Devo552 · Mar 2, 2020

Well I have gone over to the TX Support Chat site. And have gone through all the pasts posts they have.
From what I can tell, and this is just my thoughts, it seems that they are working on something that is very similar to this internal modchip. From what I had read, they are planning on releasing some sort of hard/soft mod that does not involve soldering the chip in. It does look as if it will be installed inside the nintendo switch, just kinda hooks/clips/plugs in without actually being soldered down.
Here is the clip that they had released in the annoucements section of their support chat site.

And this is another video I happened to find where buddy goes into a bit more detail regarding what has been released or "leaked"

mattytrog · Mar 2, 2020

I have tried various methods of getting the patched consoles working, using, as daft as it sounds, unpatched one. The basic approach involves sending signals over GPIO to cause a "glitch".

It is ALL THEORY at the moment, very crude, also i do not and have never had a patched or Mariko that I could experiment on. They normally get sent straight back.

I'm a mere humble peasant, so buying a console just for this isn't an option. I have better things to spend my money on. Like bills.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

gamesquest1 said:
hmmm, ok so I disconnected the USB disconnect strap and now the console actually charges and the battery drain i'm not too sure about, seems like its not as bad as it was previously but i'm assuming this means the chip remains on so its probably draining to some degree, but unfortunately its still doing the connected/disconnected stuff, is there a payload that functions for a set cycle of injections, then disconnects, im thinking this would probably be acceptable to my friend, going to see how long the battery lasts to make sure the battery drain isn't too bad, just means they won't be able to use the USB install feature on tinfoil etc as basically the USB port is non functional in the state its in now, but at least its charging properly now

PS I reflashed the trinket and had the same results in regard to the usb constantly reconnecting, I did at least see that at least once the new device being picked up by the computer was the Nintendo Switch as opposed to the trinket, but i'm assuming they are basically both trying to initialise and fighting with the PC over what device it thinks is connected, as in uf2 mode in the fusee suite it just showed up as the UF2 drive for flashing without any random disconnects, same when I disconnected the 3V lead, the switch showed up as the APX device as normal

And you have flashed both parts from fusee suite op?

Part one needs upgrading too. Any chance of putting a vid up and a pic of your install?

Also, which gnd connection are you using? This is important. Poor gnd connection can cause all your problems too. Forgot to mention that.

Dolphin678 · Mar 6, 2020

So I just got that flux, and the two large capacitors look like they each have one end wrong. Basically, it isn't silver colored like the other end. Is this normal? I also used a multimeter and those two are the ones that don't work; the readings fluctuate on both sides.
Edit: grammar, also @pyorin if you wouldn't happen to be busy, I'd appreciate your help here since you were a huge help before.

gamesquest1 · Mar 6, 2020

mattytrog said:
I have tried various methods of getting the patched consoles working, using, as daft as it sounds, unpatched one. The basic approach involves sending signals over GPIO to cause a "glitch".

It is ALL THEORY at the moment, very crude, also i do not and have never had a patched or Mariko that I could experiment on. They normally get sent straight back.

I'm a mere humble peasant, so buying a console just for this isn't an option. I have better things to spend my money on. Like bills.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

And you have flashed both parts from fusee suite op?

Part one needs upgrading too. Any chance of putting a vid up and a pic of your install?

Also, which gnd connection are you using? This is important. Poor gnd connection can cause all your problems too. Forgot to mention that.

sorry for the late reply, I ended up just settling for leaving it as it was (friend really wanted it back for his kid and said he doesn't really use the USB port for anything, along as it charged and worked on the dock he was fine with it), I did solder a second ground wire just to rule out it being the grounding issue and it still persisted, I did indeed refresh both parts of the fusee suite, idk, not too big of an issue, I will see about getting another trinket m0 for doing my own system and see if I can figure it out then

Dolphin678 · Mar 6, 2020

Well just an update, the capacitors were loose so I went ahead and took them off, which may have been a stupid decision. However, I found that the two joints are bridged. I have no idea how to remove the solder, as these points are so small and close to each other.

EDIT: Joints unbridged, top capacitor in place, readings are 1 on top and on the bottom is the same reading as the other capacitors. Now all that's left is the smaller capacitor and to test it

Dolphin678 · Mar 6, 2020

So the 3V capacitor may have flown off when I was attempting to solder it back into place. Where can I get a replacement?
EDIT: Found it, sorry
EDIT 2: Wait, the one I found is 6.3V exactly. Does it have to be over this or will it work?

vulp_vibes · Mar 6, 2020

Dolphin678 said:
So the 3V capacitor may have flown off when I was attempting to solder it back into place. Where can I get a replacement?
EDIT: Found it, sorry

glad you found it

for future reference, this thread is a treasure trove of information on specific component values
https://gbatemp.net/threads/compone...stly-the-motherboard-and-main-console.525026/

Dolphin678 · Mar 6, 2020

pyorin said:
glad you found it for future reference, this thread is a treasure trove of information on specific component values
https://gbatemp.net/threads/compone...stly-the-motherboard-and-main-console.525026/

Whoops, I worded that poorly, sorry. I meant that I found one to buy.

Dolphin678 · Mar 6, 2020

@pyorin would this one work?
https://www.amazon.com/04026D225KAT...402+size+MLCC+capacitor&qid=1583525358&sr=8-4

vulp_vibes · Mar 6, 2020

Dolphin678 said:
@pyorin would this one work?
https://www.amazon.com/04026D225KAT...402+size+MLCC+capacitor&qid=1583525358&sr=8-4

that one is rated for 6.3v, but the components thread (or rather, mattytrog

) says the part is originally rated for 10v, so I would match that. this should be an exact match: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MMZ6MSU/
and here is an alternate source: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/963-LMK105BJ225KV-F

Dolphin678 · Mar 6, 2020

pyorin said:
that one is rated for 6.3v, but the components thread (or rather, mattytrog ) says the part is originally rated for 10v, so I would match that. this should be an exact match: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MMZ6MSU/
and here is an alternate source: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/963-LMK105BJ225KV-F

Thank you very much!

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