Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

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RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[Ali90]

Hi guys. Noob question
Regarding the dreaded v3 soldering point on that dot called a capacitor.
During my research I came to the conclusion that this 2 adjacent edges of the 2 capacitors provide 3v. So if I bridged them by mistake (highly likely) will it cause any permanent damage (point A and B in the first pic).
I stumbled upon another illustration diagram with an alternative v3 point (2nd pic) which looks more doable to me. Is it advisable to use it.
My trinket is straped at 5 point( D+,D-, GND, usb disconnect, joy on start) ready for the final (v3 strap). My battery is disconnected as advised.
You guidance is highly appreciated. I don’t wanna f**k this up.
Thanks.

 

[Romain80200]

You can also use the 3v point on the nand board, so much easy to solder.

 

[Ali90]

hi everyone,
need some advise from the pros.
after researching and going through a lot of posts and tutorials on how to install and flash the trinket m0 chip, I finally got brave and dove head first in to my switch guts.
Every thing went well (joycon, gnd, D-, D+, usb disconnect). But that damn v3.3 cap got me so nervous I started sweating. Tried it 3 time and each time it get bridged with the adjacent cap. So I cleaned it off and went for another point recommended in a post I previously saw (2 tiny caps, resistors or fuses....am not sure) but I managed to royally f**k both of them. Yep....I lifted both of them.
Good news everything is working well. My question is:
What is the significance of those being missing?
Can I use my switch like this or I have to replace them?
And if so, what are those so I can order them?
Thanks guys

 

[coldfire47]

Hi there,
I have some questions:
Is this trinket m0 based hack is also compatible with the Switch Lite (HDH-CPU-02) ?
If it's the case, please tell me where to solder the wires.
TIA

 

[Ali90]

Hi there,
I have some questions:
Is this trinket m0 based hack is also compatible with the Switch Lite (HDH-CPU-02) ?
If it's the case, please tell me where to solder the wires.
TIA

Both switch lite and switch mariko(new version of old switch which comes in a red box) are unhackable at the moment, but team xecuter are working on a solution which will be released this year.
Visit team xecuter website for more details.

 

[vulp_vibes]

here's a new one guys: I was able to fit an LED next to the ambient light sensor, which means that my rear-board "stealth" installs can now implement the status LED of the modchip by using the light sensor's viewport (please forgive the state of the board and console though; these are junk/test parts)

 

[metaljay]

here's a new one guys: I was able to fit an LED next to the ambient light sensor, which means that my rear-board "stealth" installs can now implement the status LED of the modchip by using the light sensor's viewport (please forgive the state of the board and console though; these are junk/test parts)

that's incredible!

 

[DerEineee]

When I was in OFW I accidentally pressed the reset button on my installed trinket m0. This caused my switch to freeze. Shortly after this I was banned. I believe I got banned because of this. How can I avoid this happening again on another switch?

Thanks in advance

 

[vulp_vibes]

redid my personal switch's install with my new LED option made a little video to show it off as well

 

[Dolphin678]

I just installed the Trinket M0 with all straps except the volume one and I have a few problems:
1) The right Joy-Con won't register as being attached to the console. Is this normal?
2) The Switch will turn on normally, but after a few seconds, will go from an almost full charge to shutting off because of battery. Is this fixable via Hekate battery sync or is it an issue with my soldering?

I've uploaded a picture, I can take off the ribbon cables near the Joy-Con strap if I need to for a picture, they're just a pain to put back in.

Thanks in advance!

 

[SwitchM0]

Hey guys, i'm new and just start posting a noob question i guess

I've got my Trinket M0 and got Fusee-Suite on it but got confused on a (or two) soldiering point(s). In the Trinket M0 picture in the first posting, there are the Joincon Strap points, side by side in the orange marking. Does that mean i have to connect them both to the cable/Trinket or just one of them?

Thanks!

 

[Dolphin678]

Hey guys, i'm new and just start posting a noob question i guess

I've got my Trinket M0 and got Fusee-Suite on it but got confused on a (or two) soldiering point(s). In the Trinket M0 picture in the first posting, there are the Joincon Strap points, side by side in the orange marking. Does that mean i have to connect them both to the cable/Trinket or just one of them?

Thanks!

You solder to both of them, since they are both highlighted. As a warning, the alt 3V point near there is difficult to solder to. I'd go for the normal 3V point.

 

[vulp_vibes]

1) The right Joy-Con won't register as being attached to the console. Is this normal?

you have the ribbon cable inserted upside-down; the contacts are meant to be on the underside. look at the connector for the left joy-con

In the Trinket M0 picture in the first posting, there are the Joincon Strap points, side by side in the orange marking. Does that mean i have to connect them both to the cable/Trinket or just one of them?

these are two pads on the same line, so you can solder to either, but it is easiest to solder to both.

 

[Dolphin678]

you have the ribbon cable inserted upside-down; the contacts are meant to be on the underside. look at the connector for the left joy-con

Ah, thank you. I'm dumb. Do you have any advice for the battery thing?

 

[vulp_vibes]

Ah, thank you. I'm dumb. Do you have any advice for the battery thing?

looking at that area, I did see two other issues; you have the 3V line attached to the bottom of the upper capacitor, but it should be attached to the top of the lower capacitor. also, it seems the battery pad on the trinket is grounded, might be worth cleaning up as well.

 

[Dolphin678]

looking at that area, I did see two other issues; you have the 3V line attached to the bottom of the upper capacitor, but it should be attached to the top of the lower capacitor. also, it seems the battery pad on the trinket is grounded, might be worth cleaning up as well.

Thank you very much! I'll try those out.

 

[Dolphin678]

looking at that area, I did see two other issues; you have the 3V line attached to the bottom of the upper capacitor, but it should be attached to the top of the lower capacitor. also, it seems the battery pad on the trinket is grounded, might be worth cleaning up as well.

Thank you very much! I'll try those out.

Do you think you could tell me where the 3.3V connection is under the NAND board please? I'm getting too nervous about bridging the two capacitors near the normal 3V point.

 

[vulp_vibes]

Do you think you could tell me where the 3.3V connection is under the NAND board please? I'm getting too nervous about bridging the two capacitors near the normal 3V point.

this image is near the bottom of the gargantuan first post of the thread, so I don't blame you for missing it however, you can also use an alternate point on the rear of the board if you like; I made a graphic for the main test points a few pages back. for 3.3 specifically, the highlighted test point and the ends of the two big capacitors above it are on the same plane, so you can solder to those capacitors to make things easier.

also, @mattytrog, would it be possible to put this image in the alternative solder points section of the original post? there's a similar image there, but it illustrates voltage points and not specifically the points used for trinket installation.

 

[mattytrog]

this image is near the bottom of the gargantuan first post of the thread, so I don't blame you for missing it however, you can also use an alternate point on the rear of the board if you like; I made a graphic for the main test points a few pages back. for 3.3 specifically, the highlighted test point and the ends of the two big capacitors above it are on the same plane, so you can solder to those capacitors to make things easier.

also, @mattytrog, would it be possible to put this image in the alternative solder points section of the original post? there's a similar image there, but it illustrates voltage points and not specifically the points used for trinket installation.

Yeah sure. Might go for a full cleanup of OP actually.

 

[Dolphin678]

this image is near the bottom of the gargantuan first post of the thread, so I don't blame you for missing it however, you can also use an alternate point on the rear of the board if you like; I made a graphic for the main test points a few pages back. for 3.3 specifically, the highlighted test point and the ends of the two big capacitors above it are on the same plane, so you can solder to those capacitors to make things easier.

also, @mattytrog, would it be possible to put this image in the alternative solder points section of the original post? there's a similar image there, but it illustrates voltage points and not specifically the points used for trinket installation.

Thank You so very much! Greatly appreciated!