You can, but I`d keep it. I did it really for people who want"hidden" chip installs.
--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------
Anyway... Removing V2 links. Just discovered an off-by-one error.
My drunk mind was convinced 50 / 2 = 20.
:fail:
correcting UF2s now. Sorry if your fully charged battery only shows 3/4 percent charge in fusee!
Edit: files corrected... Grab from OP
--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------
Anyway... Removing V2 links. Just discovered an off-by-one error.
My drunk mind was convinced 50 / 2 = 20.
:fail:
correcting UF2s now. Sorry if your fully charged battery only shows 3/4 percent charge in fusee!
Edit: files corrected... Grab from OP
Last edited by mattytrog,
Ok just went through a bit of a headache and wanted to share what I discovered with others.
First - Dragging and dropping the UF2 after reseting the trinket results in the trinket popping back up as TRINKETBOOT and not SWITCHBOOT. If I flash the .ino first, then drag the UF2 that seems to work.
I didn't know this so I just flashed the ino with arudino installed it into my switch and was only getting a solid red light on the trinket at boot. I booted into horizon to try and update it and no matter how many times I tapped my RST wire to GND I couldn't get it into flash mode. Was pulling my hair out because this was actually the replacment trinket because when I went to update the installed trinket (had like 4.2 hekate on it) I flashed the INO and the same thing happened...got red light and couldn't recover it. Assumed it was a brick, installed a new tricket......and right back to the same exact place (pulling hair).
By accident I unplugged the battery while keeping the USB connected and BOOM, instantly went into SWITCHBOOT! Dragged over the UF2 and it flashed it and rebooted it and it was working great!
You have any idea why the trinket is not working directly with the update-bootloader-SWITCHBOOT_TRINKET-4958550.ino mattytrog? It definitely requires a 2 step process. Perhaps im really bad at reading but I didn't understand that at all from reading the instructions? I thought it was just drag and drop the UF2? That doesn't seem to work either IMO, or at least doesn't seem to be a stable flashing solution. The only way I could guarantee it to reset to SWITCHBOOT is by flashing .ino first then dragging UF2. Strange times.
First - Dragging and dropping the UF2 after reseting the trinket results in the trinket popping back up as TRINKETBOOT and not SWITCHBOOT. If I flash the .ino first, then drag the UF2 that seems to work.
I didn't know this so I just flashed the ino with arudino installed it into my switch and was only getting a solid red light on the trinket at boot. I booted into horizon to try and update it and no matter how many times I tapped my RST wire to GND I couldn't get it into flash mode. Was pulling my hair out because this was actually the replacment trinket because when I went to update the installed trinket (had like 4.2 hekate on it) I flashed the INO and the same thing happened...got red light and couldn't recover it. Assumed it was a brick, installed a new tricket......and right back to the same exact place (pulling hair).
By accident I unplugged the battery while keeping the USB connected and BOOM, instantly went into SWITCHBOOT! Dragged over the UF2 and it flashed it and rebooted it and it was working great!
You have any idea why the trinket is not working directly with the update-bootloader-SWITCHBOOT_TRINKET-4958550.ino mattytrog? It definitely requires a 2 step process. Perhaps im really bad at reading but I didn't understand that at all from reading the instructions? I thought it was just drag and drop the UF2? That doesn't seem to work either IMO, or at least doesn't seem to be a stable flashing solution. The only way I could guarantee it to reset to SWITCHBOOT is by flashing .ino first then dragging UF2. Strange times.
Hmmm...
Strange indeed.
The way I build UF2s, I build on my test jig that I made myself.
Then just before I push to Git, I try ALL files on their respective boards(I use a standard Trinket in place of a Rebug)
All build and I flash via drag and drop without any issues at all. I do it on my Unix laptop and my Windows 10 touchscreen all-in-one PC. I test on both platforms.
I`m struggling replicating your problem sir. Please stick with me, we need to sort this. I remember over a year ago we had a similar discussion
My procedure is as follows...
A virgin Trinket...
Plug in, double-press RESET... Trinketboot pops up.
Drag over part 1. After a few seconds, SWITCHBOOT now opens.
Then I drag part 2. With the new Fusee suite bootloader, you may get an overwrite warning...
Thats it.
OK... Made one last release for this.
Will be V3. That will be it then, 3 versions to suit your requirements.
All do the same thing. And work in exactly the same way
However, v3 has the following additions:
Simple, eh?
Won`t ever need to update. If you are using V1 or 2, no need to update at all. Unless you want the extra features ofcourse.
Advantages of using V3:
All do exact the same thing.
Let your chip run payload, payloadx or update.bin in that order.
Later today...
Will be V3. That will be it then, 3 versions to suit your requirements.
All do the same thing. And work in exactly the same way
However, v3 has the following additions:
- If you hold power when you turn on, you can interrupt the boot process and do the following:
- Press VOL- to see strap information / payload number
- Press VOL+ for file browser / SXOS licence regeneration
- Press power to continue boot.
Simple, eh?
Won`t ever need to update. If you are using V1 or 2, no need to update at all. Unless you want the extra features ofcourse.
Advantages of using V3:
- Copy/paste your SXOS licence into the UF2, where SXOSSXOSSXOS... is written (JUST over the SXOS words) and you will have it stored on your console forever
- Browse and boot any payload apart from the standard one.
- Acts just like the OEM bootloader, with similar graphics.
All do exact the same thing.
Let your chip run payload, payloadx or update.bin in that order.
Later today...
I may be stupid, but I’m confused on how I get the graphics to show? E.g if I want to know if chipRCM or AutoRCM is enabled? @mattytrog
Good point.
Remove SD card.
In V3, I may put in emmc autoRCM / Chip autoRCM on display.
Haven`t uploaded v3 yet
@mattytrog V3 working well, any way you can get the graphics/info screen to stay up longer? (or add text to say HOLD the Vol button) maybe?
not sure what I am doing wrong, but chip based RCM is enabled, but I constantly boot into hekate (perm CFW) rather than dual boot. How do I program it to dual boot? I read the guide a few times and I'm missing where it explains
"Hold until first rapid blink to change from modchip-based autoRCM, to dual-boot. Approx. 4 seconds hold time."
At what point am I doing this? from RCM mode? From emuMMC?
not sure what I am doing wrong, but chip based RCM is enabled, but I constantly boot into hekate (perm CFW) rather than dual boot. How do I program it to dual boot? I read the guide a few times and I'm missing where it explains
"Hold until first rapid blink to change from modchip-based autoRCM, to dual-boot. Approx. 4 seconds hold time."
At what point am I doing this? from RCM mode? From emuMMC?
Last edited by metaljay,
From any mode. The chip / console just needs to be powered on.
Hold vol+, look for the light... When you see the rapid blink, let go. Done.
Its designed so it will stay on forever if charging. Don`t want it running forever if not charging...
I`m open to suggestions on how to get it better.
Oh yeah... Info, you just hold. Once you let go, it disappears.
Hold vol+, look for the light... When you see the rapid blink, let go. Done.
Its designed so it will stay on forever if charging. Don`t want it running forever if not charging...
I`m open to suggestions on how to get it better.
Oh yeah... Info, you just hold. Once you let go, it disappears.
Last edited by mattytrog,
Hey @mattytrog, this is some good stuff! I don't use SXOS anymore, but I'd like to store my license on my Trinket for posterity just in case and I'm a little confused on how to do it. A step-by-step for dummies would be greatly appreciated.
OK... The steps areas follows... (you only need to do it the once).
Download HxD (or your favourite hex editor), install it.
Open your license.dat in HxD
Download V3 or V4. Open in HxD in a new window.
Find SXOSSXOSSXOSSXOS... eg Trinket starts at offset 0x1F084 (or 0001F084 if you prefer) in version 3.
In version 4 or any other chip, just search for SXOSSXOSSXOS and follow...
Overwrite all the SXOSSXOS chains with your license.dat code. You copy / paste from one HxD window into the other.
Now, this bit is important... ONLY OVERWRITE THE SXOS LETTERS. Nothing else.
You may need to do it in two parts...
IMPORTANT:
YOUR SXOS LICENSE.DAT SHOULD FIT EXACTLY OVER THE SXOS letters.
If it doesn`t seem big enough, or seems too big, you have DONE IT WRONG.
Once you have done this, double check!
Save... Upload to chip by dragging your modded UF2 to it.
YOU MAY NEED TO DRAG PART 1 over first as described in OP. Simple enough.
TO TEST:
Rename your current licence.dat to something else. ie licence1.old
Enter the bootloader screen, by holding power and hold VOL+.
Select the option of regenerate SXOS licence.dat
It will now generate the file...
Try to boot.
If SXOS boots without issue, congratulations...
If it goes to their "boot screen", then something is wrong.
Last edited by mattytrog,
Baked Nintendo logo in. Shows on first boot. Good or bad idea? Adds a second to boot time...
Guess so. However, it is blz compressed, so is only around 3000 bytes so negligible. Decompressed is 30kb!
The graphic goes on the heap, not the stack, so zero impact.
Just adds a second(or half a second if you wish). However, during that second, payload is read and buffered. (Not shown in the video, just plain old delay)
Graphic / backlight fades to 0, pointer is moved to buffered payload and bam... That's it.
Gives the illusion of being faster, as something is displayed straight away, rather than black screen waiting. A very noticeable improvement when using sxos
Last edited by mattytrog,
Great work! I need some noob advices as this is the first time I hack a switch (already checked and it's not patched). It's for a kid, so I need something simple to operate and was thinking to buy the RCMx86. I thought about using the dual boot mode, so to have the original untouched fw to be able to play original games online and the CFW on emunand with blocked access to Nintendo's servers. I can solder the Vol+ strap no problem. Now:
1.What configuration do you think is the best? I was thinking chipRCM + dual boot mode.
2. It would be nice to not burn the fuses when starting OFW, will this happen in dual boot mode using this firmware for the chip?
3. Is there any advantage in choosing autoRCM vs chipRCM? I read the switch has some trouble charging in autoRCM mode
4. If I chose PermaCFW, is there an option to launch the OFW from, say, Atmosphere, like from a menu or something?
Sorry for the long question and thank you for your patience
1.What configuration do you think is the best? I was thinking chipRCM + dual boot mode.
2. It would be nice to not burn the fuses when starting OFW, will this happen in dual boot mode using this firmware for the chip?
3. Is there any advantage in choosing autoRCM vs chipRCM? I read the switch has some trouble charging in autoRCM mode
4. If I chose PermaCFW, is there an option to launch the OFW from, say, Atmosphere, like from a menu or something?
Sorry for the long question and thank you for your patience
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