Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[JaRocker]

hey, Idk if anyone here is able to help.
I just a switchme up mod chip made but I'm not able to program it, I tried doing it just as I would a trinket me but it is not using up on my pc no light no nothing

 

[mattytrog]

hey, Idk if anyone here is able to help.
I just a switchme up mod chip made but I'm not able to program it, I tried doing it just as I would a trinket me but it is not using up on my pc no light no nothing

Check the right hand side of D1(looking at your pic).

Looks dry to me.

 

[JaRocker]

Check the right hand side of D1(looking at your pic).

Looks dry to me.

here is another pic this is what I've been doing. am wondering if the ships are blank if so how would i do about programming them, the reason I think the chip is blank is that i took a chip from a trinket m0 and try it on a switch meup and after doing that, then i tried the switchup me ship on the trinket m0 and nothing

 

[mattytrog]

here is another pic this is what I've been doing. am wondering if the ships are blank if so how would i do about programming them, the reason I think the chip is blank is that i took a chip from a trinket m0 and try it on a switch meup and after doing that, then i tried the switchup me ship on the trinket m0 and nothing

Yep will be blank.

Follow the OP for openOCD image and connection guidelines.

Read the datasheet for SAMD21, as you are using a G18 which is QFN48, rather than the E18, which is QFN32.

Match up SCK / SDIO according to datasheet, grab a pi zero, flash the image in OP, flash chip.

Sounds easy if you say it fast enough...

 

[JaRocker]

I've been trying to use openocd but idk what I'm doing, I have been looking at some videos online but I haven't been able to find any that works with the img that I got from your post. I'm looking for a noob-friendly guide

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

trying this now hope it works,
cd ~
sudo apt-get update
sudo apt-get install git autoconf libtool make pkg-config libusb-1.0-0 libusb-1.0-0-dev
git clone http://openocd.zylin.com/openocd
cd openocd
./bootstrap
./configure --enable-sysfsgpio --enable-bcm2835gpio
make
sudo make install

 

[mattytrog]

I've been trying to use openocd but idk what I'm doing, I have been looking at some videos online but I haven't been able to find any that works with the img that I got from your post. I'm looking for a noob-friendly guide

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

trying this now hope it works,
cd ~
sudo apt-get update
sudo apt-get install git autoconf libtool make pkg-config libusb-1.0-0 libusb-1.0-0-dev
git clone http://openocd.zylin.com/openocd
cd openocd
./bootstrap
./configure --enable-sysfsgpio --enable-bcm2835gpio
make
sudo make install

why not just use the image in the OP? Its ready to go

 

[JaRocker]

why not just use the image in the OP? Its ready to go

whats what I'm using now but idk where to find the commands.
like I said I'm a noob so I'm pretty much lost to what I'm doing

 

[mattytrog]

whats what I'm using now but idk where to find the commands.
like I said I'm a noob so I'm pretty much lost to what I'm doing

cd bootloader
sudo openocd
if i remember correctly

 

[JaRocker]

cd bootloader
sudo openocd
if i remember correctly

thanks seem like I'm getting somewhere now I was using the wrong folder. i CD in the openocd folder not the bootloader

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

thanks seem like I'm getting somewhere now I was using the wrong folder. i CD in the openocd folder not the bootloader

oh one more thing are the pins the same for the pi2 as the pi0

 

[JaRocker]

still no luck where can I find the SWDIO / SWDCLK pads on the switchme up chip

 

[cormaltes]

Hello, I damaged the resistance or must weld the CFW permanent. I would like to know the reference to replace it. Thx

 

[mattytrog]

still no luck where can I find the SWDIO / SWDCLK pads on the switchme up chip

Yes pins are same across all pi.

Should be labelled. SDL sck?

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Hello, I damaged the resistance or must weld the CFW permanent. I would like to know the reference to replace it. Thx

150r 0201 50mW

 

[JaRocker]

still haven't been able to able to flash the file

 

[mattytrog]

Shorter thicker cables... 5v dedicated supply and gnd...

About all I can suggest.

I did have issues with a pi zero once. If using one of those, use a pi2 maybe?

 

[JaRocker]

thanks ill give it another try

 

[JaRocker]

Shorter thicker cables... 5v dedicated supply and gnd...

About all I can suggest.

I did have issues with a pi zero once. If using one of those, use a pi2 maybe?

sigh sill nothing

 

[JaRocker]

this is my latest attempt still no luck

 

[pure3d2]

@mattytrog, after about a month of reading, I've finally finished this entire thread LOL. I'm going to do my install this weekend/next week then post pictures.

 

[Skuffe]

So i installed a trinket m0 in my switch, and initially everything worked as expected. It seemed a bit janky with auto rcm though, so i thought i'd solder the rcm strap as well, since i had not done that to begin with.

I unplugged the flex cables from the two connectors marked in the left side of the image (right joycon, and not 100% sure what the other one is for, but i assume its something for the display), and soldered the rcm strap and then attached the two flex cables to the connectors again. Unfortunately something went wrong in those steps, i cant see any damage anywhere, but the screen no longer comes on. I can hear the audio after the switch boots, so the switch seems to be working fine, and so does the trinket m0, since cfw loads, but nothing happens on the screen. In the dock i get the image as expected as well.

Any ideá what could have happened? i can't see any damage to the flex cables visually, and i didnt apply much force to them at all (i flipped the little plastic locks before removing the cables).

 

[pure3d2]

So i installed a trinket m0 in my switch, and initially everything worked as expected. It seemed a bit janky with auto rcm though, so i thought i'd solder the rcm strap as well, since i had not done that to begin with.

I unplugged the flex cables from the two connectors marked in the left side of the image (right joycon, and not 100% sure what the other one is for, but i assume its something for the display), and soldered the rcm strap and then attached the two flex cables to the connectors again. Unfortunately something went wrong in those steps, i cant see any damage anywhere, but the screen no longer comes on. I can hear the audio after the switch boots, so the switch seems to be working fine, and so does the trinket m0, since cfw loads, but nothing happens on the screen. In the dock i get the image as expected as well.

Any ideá what could have happened? i can't see any damage to the flex cables visually, and i didnt apply much force to them at all (i flipped the little plastic locks before removing the cables).

View attachment 189260

Did you disconnect the battery before you started soldering?