Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[Brusely]

Does this only work for SX OS?
I need one for Atmosphere

 

[mattytrog]

Does this only work for SX OS?
I need one for Atmosphere

Works for any firmware. Even Android and unix

 

[Brusely]

When it says "You will only have dual boot" (located in the trinket M0 image) do i not need to have that connected and ill still be able to switch between ofw and cfw

 

[mattytrog]

When it says "You will only have dual boot" (located in the trinket M0 image) do i not need to have that connected and ill still be able to switch between ofw and cfw

Have what connected sir?

I'm assuming you mean the vol strap.

If you leave the vol strap disconnected, it will only be possible to dual boot, as RCM requires a push of vol+.

If vol+ strap is disconnected, it cannot do it. So it needs you to do it

 

[Brusely]

Dual boot as in CFW only? Or both stock and CFW

 

[mattytrog]

Dual boot as in CFW only? Or both stock and CFW

Dual boot means ofw/cfw by pressing vol button. Perma cfw is just pressing power button for cfw

 

[Brusely]

So I don't need to connect that to the trinket if I'm using Dual Boot

 

[mattytrog]

So I don't need to connect that to the trinket if I'm using Dual Boot

No. You dont even need the joycon RCM strap if you want to use autoRCM. We used to call this "Method 1" back in the day.

 

[Brusely]

Let's say I made a mistake when programming the Trinket and it boots Hekate 1.5.3 instead of 5.0.2. Can I reprogram the trinket without a port?

 

[mattytrog]

Let's say I made a mistake when programming the Trinket and it boots Hekate 1.5.3 instead of 5.0.2. Can I reprogram the trinket without a port?

It's not a mistake. Switchboot version is 1.5.3.

It's basically Hekate with a fair bit of modification.

You are flashed correctly by the looks of it

 

[ModFusion]

Hi thank you for this thread ^^ Can i use this alternative point 3v3 ? Thank you

 

[mattytrog]

Hi thank you for this thread ^^ Can i use this alternative point 3v3 ? Thank you

I wouldn't. That goes to pin 5 iirc. We used to use pin 5 back in the day, until we refined the bootloader. It won't inject/ trigger RCM in time if you use that point

 

[Brusely]

After i installed the switchboot and Hekate Mod, i realised that it only injects Hekate 1.5.3. Right now it doesnt have a usb port, but is there any i can reprogram the device inside of my switch? (Hekate-wise)

 

[FunThomas]

After i installed the switchboot and Hekate Mod, i realised that it only injects Hekate 1.5.3. Right now it doesnt have a usb port, but is there any i can reprogram the device inside of my switch? (Hekate-wise)

as @mattytrog said you mean Switchboot 1.5.3
Hekate exists only in version 1.5.1 and then 1.6 there is no 1.5.3 and it will be hard to find a version from may 2018 now

is your hekate menu in text or graphical UI ?
can you make a screenshot of your hekate menu?

if you want to reprogramm the modchip you need the samd-update mode payload and follow the steps
https://gbatemp.net/threads/trinket-rebug-others-switchboot_uf2-fusee_uf2-modchip-software.526607/

but i am sure there is a misunderstanding

 

[mattytrog]

After i installed the switchboot and Hekate Mod, i realised that it only injects Hekate 1.5.3. Right now it doesnt have a usb port, but is there any i can reprogram the device inside of my switch? (Hekate-wise)

Yes. Go to switchboot thread and have a read of op.

Hekate isn't v1.5.3. even though it says

as @mattytrog said you mean Switchboot 1.5.3
Hekate exists only in version 1.5.1 and then 1.6 there is no 1.5.3 and it will be hard to find a version from may 2018 now

is your hekate menu in text or graphical UI ?
can you make a screenshot of your hekate menu?

if you want to reprogramm the modchip you need the samd-update mode payload and follow the steps
https://gbatemp.net/threads/trinket-rebug-others-switchboot_uf2-fusee_uf2-modchip-software.526607/

but i am sure there is a misunderstanding

He has the new version. NYX is picking the version number up

 

[ModFusion]

Hi I have a problem i'm not able to charge the switch when it's powered off.
I need to power on to charge the switch.

 

[luzifers]

Hi @mattytrog

I've installed the RCMX86 v2.0 without USB logic chip. Everything was working fine but recently I've realised that the USB is not working properly and it was before.

I put the switch in rcm mode to use tegrarcm to inject a payload but it's not recognised by the computer, it shows a message of an error from the last USB device connected.
USB devices are not recognised into Sxos to load xci, and nxmtp to mount the switch as a device its also not working. The first time I installed the chip all this things were tested and they worked.

Every time I connect the usb, the switch charges properly and I can use the Dock to play on the TV without problem.

I've checked all the solder points and they look OK and tested ok in continuity.

I've tried to disable the samd21 with a file you gave previously on the forum but I continue having the same problems with the usb.

I remember that you told me about worng GND connection could produce that kind of problems. My GND is connected to one of the USB screws, but when I test for continuity in every GND point the test it's flawless.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

 

[ModFusion]

Hi I have a problem i'm not able to charge the switch when it's powered off.
I need to power on to charge the switch.

EDIT : It's all good now i had to press 2 times the button of the modchip

 

[mattytrog]

Hi @mattytrog

I've installed the RCMX86 v2.0 without USB logic chip. Everything was working fine but recently I've realised that the USB is not working properly and it was before.

I put the switch in rcm mode to use tegrarcm to inject a payload but it's not recognised by the computer, it shows a message of an error from the last USB device connected.
USB devices are not recognised into Sxos to load xci, and nxmtp to mount the switch as a device its also not working. The first time I installed the chip all this things were tested and they worked.

Every time I connect the usb, the switch charges properly and I can use the Dock to play on the TV without problem.

I've checked all the solder points and they look OK and tested ok in continuity.

I've tried to disable the samd21 with a file you gave previously on the forum but I continue having the same problems with the usb.

I remember that you told me about worng GND connection could produce that kind of problems. My GND is connected to one of the USB screws, but when I test for continuity in every GND point the test it's flawless.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

OK... What file are you using for your chip?

How long are your cables / in particular the USB signal lines?

 

[luzifers]

OK... What file are you using for your chip?

How long are your cables / in particular the USB signal lines?

I was using RCMX86 PART1 Dualboot and the TRINKET M0 PART2 SWITCHBOOT (because the new RCMX86 V2 it's like a Trinket M0), and was working flawless. Now I've tried to update the PART2 with the last version, I've also changed for the RCMX86 version, and tried with FUSEE version too, but I get the always the same problem.

I also tried to disable the chip with a disable samd21 UF2, but the USB problem continues.

The cables are the same I was using in my previous RCMX86 first release with IC USB Logic chip, and after your solution in your last UF2 releases was working flawlessly with these cables.

I could try to make the USB signal lines a little bit shorter just in case its longitude could be causing this USB problem.

Should it cause problems even with the chip disabled?