Hardware Supposedly broken Power Button is more now? Switch just died

[rvcjew]

sorry i thought you had already opened the second switch to compare voltages, but you can get a battery charger to charge the battery externally then plug it in and see if it works using something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TP4056-U...629465?hash=item36344bfe19:g:J3QAAOSwukVbIinT

Thanks for the info, before anything else i'm waiting on those leads as it was odd to me as well to not even have a hint of some juice in there.

 

[rvcjew]

So I got the new leads, they didn't fit my cheaper multimeter so got a okay one (digital one) and they worked and I used the very thin leads to indeed determine that the battery is 0v. I'm not sure what I should be probing though to see if the board has a short anywhere. I think perhaps the battery just went bad as it had now been drained fully twice and even though it was put out of auto rcm when working then the button started acting up and it would just turn off randomly so I thought the battery might have been toast at that point with the odd behavior so I bet the battery was going bad from the whole beginning perhaps from getting drained continually in rcm in storage? I think at this point I need a new battery as I don't want to really mess with my good switch if the board on this one will just ruin that ones battery. But the main question now is what does the switch do if you plug it into usb-c with no battery, does it do anything that would turn on a usb tester if functioning properly?

 

[The Real Jdbye]

So I got the new leads, they didn't fit my cheaper multimeter so got a okay one (digital one) and they worked and I used the very thin leads to indeed determine that the battery is 0v. I'm not sure what I should be probing though to see if the board has a short anywhere. I think perhaps the battery just went bad as it had now been drained fully twice and even though it was put out of auto rcm when working then the button started acting up and it would just turn off randomly so I thought the battery might have been toast at that point with the odd behavior so I bet the battery was going bad from the whole beginning perhaps from getting drained continually in rcm in storage? I think at this point I need a new battery as I don't want to really mess with my good switch if the board on this one will just ruin that ones battery. But the main question now is what does the switch do if you plug it into usb-c with no battery, does it do anything that would turn on a usb tester if functioning properly?

When a li-ion/lipo battery goes under about 2.5V it is considered dead according to the datasheets but you can often resurrect them with a device designed to trickle charge the battery at very low speed (you can find some cheap USB ones) without much loss in battery capacity if you're lucky, although it's not recommended by the manufacturers, but since this happened twice it sounds like your battery capacity is already completely shot. I don't think OG replacements cost too much, just be careful when removing the old one as it's glued down pretty well. Some heat applied to the back side (screen side) using a hair dryer might make it easier to remove.

 

[rvcjew]

When a li-ion/lipo battery goes under about 2.5V it is considered dead according to the datasheets but you can often resurrect them with a device designed to trickle charge the battery at very low speed (you can find some cheap USB ones) without much loss in battery capacity if you're lucky, although it's not recommended by the manufacturers, but since this happened twice it sounds like your battery capacity is already completely shot. I don't think OG replacements cost too much, just be careful when removing the old one as it's glued down pretty well. Some heat applied to the back side (screen side) using a hair dryer might make it easier to remove.

Yea I was like my god it's a good glue but at least if it's fully dead its not so bad to hopefully warp it somewhat. I will be gentle and try without heat at first as I don't want to soften the screen adhesive if I don't have to. I have ordered a new battery off ifixit and while it may cost a little more I know they will warranty it. Thanks for the advice.

EDIt: got the battery out easily with some gentle force, will update when I have the new battery.

 

[The Real Jdbye]

Yea I was like my god it's a good glue but at least if it's fully dead its not so bad to hopefully warp it somewhat. I will be gentle and try without heat at first as I don't want to soften the screen adhesive if I don't have to. I have ordered a new battery off ifixit and while it may cost a little more I know they will warranty it. Thanks for the advice.

EDIt: got the battery out easily with some gentle force, will update when I have the new battery.

In theory if it's fully discharged it shouldn't be dangerous to accidentally puncture or damage it but it is full of possibly volatile and dangerous chemicals so still not a good idea. Use a plastic tool to pry it off, don't use anything made of metal.

 

[rvcjew]

In theory if it's fully discharged it shouldn't be dangerous to accidentally puncture or damage it but it is full of possibly volatile and dangerous chemicals so still not a good idea. Use a plastic tool to pry it off, don't use anything made of metal.

I used a thing designed for it that is metal. the plastic would just snap from the glue strength plus the angle you have to work with is horrible. I did the corner first then stuck in gutiar picks as i went and it popped out with no bend.

 

[bootaholic]

This is truly a new one for me. I have never seen a switch battery pack completely discharged. This makes me think you have some other issue within the console.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

 

[rvcjew]

This is truly a new one for me. I have never seen a switch battery pack completely discharged. This makes me think you have some other issue within the console.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

What if it was stuck in rcm with no power button to turn it off, will rcm let it go below 2v? This is why I chose to get another battery and not try my good one out my switch.

 

[The Real Jdbye]

I used a thing designed for it that is metal. the plastic would just snap from the glue strength plus the angle you have to work with is horrible. I did the corner first then stuck in gutiar picks as i went and it popped out with no bend.

I have some plastic iFixit opening tools and they would probably be good for stuff like that, they are pretty sturdy. But I could see thin plastic tools like guitar picks breaking easily.

What if it was stuck in rcm with no power button to turn it off, will rcm let it go below 2v? This is why I chose to get another battery and not try my good one out my switch.

Probably not below 2V but it can discharge so low that the console will not charge it up if AutoRCM is enabled because it tries to boot into RCM but RCM mode does not support charging properly so it fails to charge and dies again (or something like that)

 

[bootaholic]

What if it was stuck in rcm with no power button to turn it off, will rcm let it go below 2v? This is why I chose to get another battery and not try my good one out my switch.

I suppose this is possible!

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

 

[rvcjew]

Okay so the battery came in and it read at 3.7v like normal so attached it and charging seemed to do nothing but hitting the power button yielded the pic attached. If you hold the power at that screen then it will reboot once then as you keep holding it will turn off but it will make a audible pop sound which seems bad. It also while off then with the jig in does not go into rcm and goes straight to that screen. The back of the device was getting warm at that screen or at least not cool to the touch. I then proceeded to turn it all off and open it again to the point i could detach and battery in case it ruins this one dead too. Any advice or info on that code as it just seems to mean sd issue or general issue. I also did not try holding the vol button with power with the jig I just realized, I have to do that too right if not on auto RCM (which it should not be anymore).

 

[tirlibibi]

Hmmz got the same problem yesterday, Switch worked fine, i can play, reboot with SX Reboot without any problem but no Power Off with the button, (as i saw troubles coming, i disable AutoRCM), no wake up with power, but OK with Home.
So, i try an hard power off (12s on the button), the console shut down ... but now, impossible to start it, tried evyething ...

 

[The Real Jdbye]

Hmmz got the same problem yesterday, Switch worked fine, i can play, reboot with SX Reboot without any problem but no Power Off with the button, (as i saw troubles coming, i disable AutoRCM), no wake up with power, but OK with Home.
So, i try an hard power off (12s on the button), the console shut down ... but now, impossible to start it, tried evyething ...

The power and volume buttons are on a ribbon connector which can be replaced cheaply. But it might just need some cleaning with IPA.
It should still turn on when you plug in the charger though. Does it not?

 

[rvcjew]

The power and volume buttons are on a ribbon connector which can be replaced cheaply. But it might just need some cleaning with IPA.
It should still turn on when you plug in the charger though. Does it not?

I second this, does it react to your OG adapter at all?

Hmmz got the same problem yesterday, Switch worked fine, i can play, reboot with SX Reboot without any problem but no Power Off with the button, (as i saw troubles coming, i disable AutoRCM), no wake up with power, but OK with Home.
So, i try an hard power off (12s on the button), the console shut down ... but now, impossible to start it, tried evyething ...

I will be bringing mine to a shop and they always swap both power ic's as they said its a nightmare to figure out which one has gone bad. Thing is if yours was fine then did what my friends did just like it did for me (was okay but then I turned off Auto RCM in the SX payload bootloader thing) then after a while the console would not respond to power it also would turn off after a while to sleep mode so I thought the battery just needed charged. Thing is it would wake up if you stuck in the usb c cord when it was in this state but once it was OFF completely it was shot and by the time the power ribbon came and I had time to swap it the battery was toast, it might have already been toast then too. if you can you might want to prob your battery and see what voltage it is at unplugged. I wonder if turning off Auto RCM did anything to it (though I don't know how that would).

 

[tirlibibi]

The power and volume buttons are on a ribbon connector which can be replaced cheaply. But it might just need some cleaning with IPA.
It should still turn on when you plug in the charger though. Does it not?

It does not Power Up with charger, and the button works as i was able to make an hard power off (12s on the power button)

 

[tirlibibi]

I second this, does it react to your OG adapter at all?


I will be bringing mine to a shop and they always swap both power ic's as they said its a nightmare to figure out which one has gone bad. Thing is if yours was fine then did what my friends did just like it did for me (was okay but then I turned off Auto RCM in the SX payload bootloader thing) then after a while the console would not respond to power it also would turn off after a while to sleep mode so I thought the battery just needed charged. Thing is it would wake up if you stuck in the usb c cord when it was in this state but once it was OFF completely it was shot and by the time the power ribbon came and I had time to swap it the battery was toast, it might have already been toast then too. if you can you might want to prob your battery and see what voltage it is at unplugged. I wonder if turning off Auto RCM did anything to it (though I don't know how that would).

I got 2 switch, so i'm sure adapters are ok ... i made tests, it got 3.7-3.8 on the battery, and 3.7-3.8 on point test (ground poiunt close to the battery connector and + close to the grey 2R2)