hi @WadsRUs i have the same problem
I have two 2017 switch models. (no cfw of any sort)
One comes with all its accessories including the dock and is on 3.0.1. It works and output video through dock fine
The other switch is on 3.0.0 and consists of the tablet and joycon only. But the issue is that it does not output video through the same dock.
I have tried to reintialize it but it still does not output video.
the dock works fine. the charger works fine as well, hdmi cable works fine (all original nintendo)
i used a magnifying glass and found some pins bent and straightened them out (the rapid blinking green light of the dock has been now corrected)
Usb c works double sided in case of charging (in case one side goes wrong). Is it same with video output???
i also noticed that the usb c port on the normal switch has no holes inside both the parallel walls of usb c port unlike the damaged one.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Now all my USB ports are dead! fck Nintendo and their broken dock and console...
I think my story can help some one.
2 days ago i got totally dead switch with 0.13 Amps on a charge.
I checked M92T36 and P13USB were shorted and one line of the HDMI coil wasn't reading thru.
Replaced all of them, system boots up and worked fine but doesn't worked with a Dock(just green light on the dock).
Next i checked USB-C port with a microscope and found that port had missing pads, replaced the port... still no signal...
I have 6 donor boards with different revisions and i noticed that on my HAC-CPU-10 board i didn't have some resistor and capacitor from the factory, decided to take a gamble place them and everything is works perfectly fine now... May be from the factory they used custom version of P13 chip that had custom lines inside.
Check image what elements you need to check.
Thanks Agilato, ill be sure to check my switch for the resistors and capacitors at those locations.
What i also dont understand is why the switch i have doesnt dock AND does is not detected by the computer when plugged in (but charges). Is data transfer handled by the P13USB chip as well?
Im thinking just try to "build" a OpenBoardView schematic myself.. I have a couple of donor boards that have all the chips now been taken so yesterday I was looking at the board and thinking hmmm if I get the fibreglass pen out and start scratching I may get to see the layers!! ahahahahaThere is a-lot happening, problem is that we don't have schematics... we can just guess...
Same issue here... Console had bad charge port, replaced it with a new one. Console charges and is recognized by computer, no display when docked. Green light comes on on the dock. So, I replaced every "typical" chip on the board with all known good ones, no change....
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Im thinking just try to "build" a OpenBoardView schematic myself.. I have a couple of donor boards that have all the chips now been taken so yesterday I was looking at the board and thinking hmmm if I get the fibreglass pen out and start scratching I may get to see the layers!! ahahahaha
such a shame we have to work like this
Wow... Replaced all 5, works perfect! You're the man!Check HDMI chokes and resistors near p13usb chip, HDMI chokes get bad very easy same problem we have on PS4
oh man.. thats a ballerCheck HDMI chokes and resistors near p13usb chip, HDMI chokes get bad very easy same problem we have on PS4
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I had one switch with no Joy-Con connection... i repaired 6 internal traces spent 4 long nights testing and jumping around with a tester... didn't worked...
I think my story can help some one.
2 days ago i got totally dead switch with 0.13 Amps on a charge.
I checked M92T36 and P13USB were shorted and one line of the HDMI coil wasn't reading thru.
Replaced all of them, system boots up and worked fine but doesn't worked with a Dock(just green light on the dock).
Next i checked USB-C port with a microscope and found that port had missing pads, replaced the port... still no signal...
I have 6 donor boards with different revisions and i noticed that on my HAC-CPU-10 board i didn't have some resistor and capacitor from the factory, decided to take a gamble place them and everything is works perfectly fine now... May be from the factory they used custom version of P13 chip that had custom lines inside.
Check image what elements you need to check.
Is it just happened randomly or after some actions?