Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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mattytrog

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This may be a stupid question, but Im taking my board out to just use the easier looking test points on the back... is the alternate 3.3V fine to use in place of the 3v points on the front?

Yes. Its the same rail.

hello, it is normal that the switch with the internally installed trinket m0 does not turn on with the charger connected or in the dock.

This is why we fit the USB strap.

It doesn`t fix the issue, though it does automatically push a payload when you disconnect, getting you out of RCMK and either completely shutting down or bootikng up depending on max77620 state
 
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edwardsalazar97

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Yes. Its the same rail.



This is why we fit the USB strap.

It doesn`t fix the issue, though it does automatically push a payload when you disconnect, getting you out of RCMK and either completely shutting down or bootikng up depending on max77620 state

ok, I have the usb strap installed, but it does not inject it when I disconnect the usb, I must turn it off completely and turn it on again
 
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ok, I have the usb strap installed, but it does not inject it when I disconnect the usb, I must turn it off completely and turn it on again
[/QUOTE]
Hmmm... Try reflashing the UF2 or holding down the vol+ button for around 30 seconds(you will see LED long flash). Do this WITH USB CONNECTED TO POWER
 

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It will do a full reset on the chip if you hold it down long enough(assuming you have vol+ strap connected, that is)
It will do a full reset on the chip if you hold it down long enough(assuming you have vol+ strap connected, that is)

ok, it remains in rcm, it only comes out of the black screen if I restart the chip, when i disconnect the usb nothing happens, with the reset of the volume plus reinject the payload
 

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Okay just got switchme installed.... I plugged my phone into the USB port to try and just boot it up to test it... My phone screen flashed like it always does when I plug in and it goes to push a payload but nothing happened on my switch screen... Screen black. This is first time I've ever had this plugged in. Idk if there was anything flashed on the switchme from factory? Just hoping I didn't mess anything up lol. Did the ground and USB slot and the option ish disconnect on the front... Then I did the joycon and 3.3 v on the back of the board... Does the switchme light up or anything to test if it's getting Power or anything. Any ideas what I should check or do now?
 

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ok, it remains in rcm, it only comes out of the black screen if I restart the chip, when i disconnect the usb nothing happens, with the reset of the volume plus reinject the payload

The correct behaviour is:

Upon disconnect from USB, the chip should reset and attempt to re-inject the payload.

Okay just got switchme installed.... I plugged my phone into the USB port to try and just boot it up to test it... My phone screen flashed like it always does when I plug in and it goes to push a payload but nothing happened on my switch screen... Screen black. This is first time I've ever had this plugged in. Idk if there was anything flashed on the switchme from factory? Just hoping I didn't mess anything up lol. Did the ground and USB slot and the option ish disconnect on the front... Then I did the joycon and 3.3 v on the back of the board... Does the switchme light up or anything to test if it's getting Power or anything. Any ideas what I should check or do now?

The SwitchME has just the standard Trinket bootloader on there as far as I know.

Yes it should have an LED on there. Try double-pressing RESET and sent switchboot payload, select SAMD21 update. See if REBUG_BOOT pops up.
 

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Well damn. I got no led and can't get my switch on either... Was in autorcm before... Guess mess with it some more here. I felt my solder points and stuff were fine.
 

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Ground looks like maybe im pushing through it kinda? whats weird is I was able to do rcm mode or something at least my phone thought i was doing it when i plugged it into my switch.. but now im not getting that at all... and never had an led on the switchme.... I guess I can tear down and take pics of the 3.3v and joycon strap one on the back. Lol
 

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Ground looks like maybe im pushing through it kinda? whats weird is I was able to do rcm mode or something at least my phone thought i was doing it when i plugged it into my switch.. but now im not getting that at all... and never had an led on the switchme.... I guess I can tear down and take pics of the 3.3v and joycon strap one on the back. Lol
Use an alternative GND (the one next to battery connector) then retest
 

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well i was able to get my switch back on... still no LED from the trinket or anytthing. sitting in sxos payload right now with it. double hitting reset nothing else getting me anything. is my 3v one most likely bad?

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

but then tried to boot stock firmware from sxos menu and got nintendo errror 2101-0001! nooooo lol. payloads and stuff randomly work from my phone and such. cant get back into sxos payload again. no idea what deal is.
 

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Here's the back of the board. Joycon strap looks little less then ideal lol. Idk about the 3.3 v one... And last page has the rest of the soldering @mattytrog
 

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Here's the back of the board. Joycon strap looks little less then ideal lol. Idk about the 3.3 v one... And last page has the rest of the soldering @mattytrog

It sounds silly, but that wire you're using has a coating of enamel, you've removed it well, the tin if you are making contact in the right way can be that.
 

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