Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[a7mag3ddon]

Thank for all the updates and info on this @mattytrog much apreciated. Going to fit this method 1 style at the weekend now i have the new files on there, i dont want to have to mess about holding buttons down etc.. just turn it on and go.. if i wanna boot OFW can be done via SXOS and if i want to do nand dumps again etc, can be done via launch external payload in SXOS :-D

Ill keep my pro dongle as a back up :-D

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Oooh forgot to ask, do we still flick the resistor off for the LED or should we just leave as is or remove ALL led's

 

[mattytrog]

Thank for all the updates and info on this @mattytrog much apreciated. Going to fit this method 1 style at the weekend now i have the new files on there, i dont want to have to mess about holding buttons down etc.. just turn it on and go.. if i wanna boot OFW can be done via SXOS and if i want to do nand dumps again etc, can be done via launch external payload in SXOS :-D

Ill keep my pro dongle as a back up :-D

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Oooh forgot to ask, do we still flick the resistor off for the LED or should we just leave as is or remove ALL led's

Up to you. If doing method 1, just leave it on. Not like it draws much. Keep the RGB DotStar thing on it.

The only logical reason for removing the LED is to save power when it is connected permanently. But since it isn`t being connected permanently...
I`d remove it for method 3.

 

[noX1609]

On the flip side of the board, the point comes out under the audio chip - the ALC. At least I`m assuming its an audio chip. Not got docs to hand.

You could probe around that to see if it "bells out". I haven`t got one in bits at the moment.

EDIT: Actually... Fook it. I`ll take back off and have a probe for you. Gimme half hour.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------



@noX1609 Yes. It goes to ground.

Furthermore, under the reset switch on the trinket, the smoothing cap for the trinket is connected to the same points. Buzz it out yourself. So you can just connect the trinket and be back as you were. So instead of using the point on the switch to smooth it, we are using the trinket. Have you tried this?

Thank you so so much for testing it.
Will solder the trinket to the console and test if it works

 

[mattytrog]

Thank you so so much for testing it.
Will solder the trinket to the console and test if it works

Yep, keep us informed!

 

[pandavova]

Btw, could you share your edited script, with which you uploaded the M0 files?
(Maybe make a fork of the git and do your changes/improvements there?)
Would be very nice!

 

[mattytrog]

Btw, could you share your edited script, with which you uploaded the M0 files?
(Maybe make a fork of the git and do your changes/improvements there?)
Would be very nice!

I can do, but there is literally bugger-all to change apart from a couple of lines and values. I`ll github it later and provide source. But you will see there is no real difference.

 

[noX1609]

@mattytrog: Could you check another point for me? Because as i have seen now he also burnt the resistor (should be one because on picture s it‘s black) where Pin 4 is soldered to (it’s marked on Picture 3 in the OP) and because of that his power button doesn‘t work. It‘s hard to see on the pictures is it connected with the resistor that‘s above it or not? And do you know the value of it?

 

[mattytrog]

@mattytrog: Could you check another point for me? Because as i have seen now he also burnt the resistor (should be one because on picture s it‘s black) where Pin 4 is soldered to (it’s marked on Picture 3 in the OP) and because of that his power button doesn‘t work. It‘s hard to see on the pictures is it connected with the resistor that‘s above it or not? And do you know the value of it?

Are you sure it is burned and ruined? Could it just be a poor connection due to crud off the soldering iron? No idea of the value. But lets guess...

V = 1.8v, because it is a signal and it isn`t passing any real current... Lets be generous and say 1mA.

So if we say R=V/I, this would make 1.8v / 0.001 = 1800 Ohms. So I`d try a 1.8Kohm there to start with..

I can`t give an exact answer as the wife has stolen the bloody switch and others are waiting for collection first thing. And our scrapper that I use for testing stuff is somewhat indisposed at the minute

 

[noX1609]

Are you sure it is burned and ruined? Could it just be a poor connection due to crud off the soldering iron? No idea of the value. But lets guess...

V = 1.8v, because it is a signal and it isn`t passing any real current... Lets be generous and say 1mA.

So if we say R=V/I, this would make 1.8v / 0.001 = 1800 Ohms. So I`d try a 1.8Kohm there to start with..

I can`t give an exact answer as the wife has stolen the bloody switch and others are waiting for collection first thing. And our scrapper that I use for testing stuff is somewhat indisposed at the minute

Ok thanks will try it with that value and see
If you could check if these both are connected tomorrow/when you get your hands back ln the switch it would be great

 

[mattytrog]

Ok thanks will try it with that value and see
If you could check if these both are connected tomorrow/when you get your hands back ln the switch it would be great

Will do! Good luck

 

[Deleted User]

Awesome guide. Just ordered me a batch of 5 and method one looks legit. Thank you.

 

[efxonly123]

Mattytrog, thanks for the guide. I installed my trinket using method 1 with 4 wires, but when I turn on my switch I don't get a green light, only blinking red and then solid red. When I connect the switch to a pc, I'm able to get into trinketboot and then the light is green. I'm trying to use the sx loader os from your files. Also, do you need to get into RCM mode before you load the sx os and set up autorcm? Thank you,

 

[mattytrog]

Mattytrog, thanks for the guide. I installed my trinket using method 1 with 4 wires, but when I turn on my switch I don't get a green light, only blinking red and then solid red. When I connect the switch to a pc, I'm able to get into trinketboot and then the light is green. I'm trying to use the sx loader os from your files. Also, do you need to get into RCM mode before you load the sx os and set up autorcm? Thank you,

Hmmm... Sounds like the files are not copied to the drive correctly. Are you sure you are putting the device in bootloader mode before copying the files over? And you haven`t used the Gemma M0 files by mistake have you? They are on the root of the TRINKETBOOT drive, yes?

If so, corrupted download?

 

[efxonly123]

Hmmm... Sounds like the files are not copied to the drive correctly. Are you sure you are putting the device in bootloader mode before copying the files over? And you haven`t used the Gemma M0 files by mistake have you? They are on the root of the TRINKETBOOT drive, yes?

If so, corrupted download?

The files show up in the trinketboot on the pc when I'm in bootloader mode. I'm using the SX loader files for method 1 and 2. Do I need to manually enter rcm first?

 

[mattytrog]

The files show up in the trinketboot on the pc when I'm in bootloader mode. I'm using the SX loader files for method 1 and 2. Do I need to manually enter rcm first?

Yes. If using method 1, you need autoRCM

 

[efxonly123]

Yes. If using method 1, you need autoRCM

Is that what's preventing the payload from launching (green light on trinket)? Thank you

 

[mattytrog]

Is that what's preventing the payload from launching (green light on trinket)? Thank you

Yes.

 

[efxonly123]

Ok, hopefully last one....I stripped a screw trying to remove the joycon rail to reach point 10 for the rcm, is there another method to get into rcm mode without a jig and without the alternative point near the joycon cable? Sorry if I'm being confusing. I'm guessing that I have to manually get into rcm mode before I can enable autorcm right?

Edit: Ok, I get how to install autorcm. Thank you.

 

[noX1609]

Will do! Good luck

New day, hopefully more luck

I messured the point of the resistor and there are 4,02V

But i have a very weard problem: The switch boots completely (i can hear klick sounds if i touch the touchscreen so it should have booted) but only backlight is on but the screen doesn‘t show anything. Could this be related to the missing capacitor or the missing resistor?
Because if i bridge the point where the power button goes to and a gnd point the switch starts but as i said it doesn‘t display anything. The cables are sitting correctly i just checked that.

 

[mattytrog]

Oh. I thought it was 1.8v there. My brain full of rubbish so prob not thinking clearly! In that case, try a 4k resistor. I was thinking of something else...

 

[noX1609]

Oh. I thought it was 1.8v there. My brain full of rubbish so prob not thinking clearly! In that case, try a 4k resistor. I was thinking of something else...

Yeah will try it but i‘m really confused that the display doesn‘t show anything but console seems to be fully booted, so the problem with the capacitor seems to be fixed with the trinket.
But what is now the problem? It‘s very annoying to test different things and have to get the board in and out each time. Yesterday the screen worked but console didn‘t boot completely now it boots but the screen don‘t display anything.
Don‘t know whats wrong with this console^^

I think it would really help if i would know if the two resistors are connected or not and where the top pad is connected to (i mean the resistor where the trinket is soldered to but not the pad where it‘s soldered, i mean the other. Marked it red in the picture attached)