Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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noX1609

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@mattytrog: Do you know if thats a capacitor or a resistor where you solder the 3v point to and do you know the value and size?
Because a friend of mine tried to solder the chip in and got lost of this tiny piece and now we need to know what it is to order a new one and place it in :(
 

slslasher

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Ah i had over seen it, was only reading the Post on mobile phone so picture wasn‘t really big ;) After i zoomed in i saw it.


Doesn‘t matter you can use any ground point because normally they are all connected to each other on the motherboard.

None at all
Thanks to both!
Alright, because picture 2 gnd point is nearer so I would use that.

For the rcm strap point for picture 2, it is the left pad of the orange line you draw right? Because I saw that alternate points to solder from other pics not in this thread is in on the underside of the mobo and you gotta bridge 2 components.
 

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4.7μF 0402/1005
Thanks, you saved us :)
Ok now i have to order some of them on ebay and hope he don‘t destroyed the pads on motherboard :(
Is there an alternative for this point so i can repair it with wires if the pads are gone? Because when i have seen it right and messured correctly One side of the pin (opposit from where you need to solder is a ground point so i could use any ground point for it and there are a lot on the mainboard ;)
 

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Another question to the point where 3v needs to be soldered. I just saw that he ripped the Pad where the top of the capacitor is soldered to :( (the point to 3v is the bottom one just for orientation.
So is there an alternative point where i can solder the new top pad of the capacitor to?
I would search for my own but because the pad is gone that doesn‘t work :(
Please help us. We would be happy if we could get the switch back working because he just got it to his birthday last week.
I told him to wait until i have time because i have done 3 Switches now without a problem but he wanted to try it for his own and now this happened.

EDIT: And is the other one underneath the one you solder to the same? Because this one doesn‘t look good too so i would change both
 
Last edited by noX1609,

mattytrog

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@mattytrog: Do you know if thats a capacitor or a resistor where you solder the 3v point to and do you know the value and size?
Because a friend of mine tried to solder the chip in and got lost of this tiny piece and now we need to know what it is to order a new one and place it in :(

4.7 microfarad (uF).

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Will the payload work on a Pro Trinket 3V?
Pro trinkets are 328p if I remember correctly. Therefore no it won't work due to lack of usb host mode.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Another question to the point where 3v needs to be soldered. I just saw that he ripped the Pad where the top of the capacitor is soldered to :( (the point to 3v is the bottom one just for orientation.
So is there an alternative point where i can solder the new top pad of the capacitor to?
I would search for my own but because the pad is gone that doesn‘t work :(
Please help us. We would be happy if we could get the switch back working because he just got it to his birthday last week.
I told him to wait until i have time because i have done 3 Switches now without a problem but he wanted to try it for his own and now this happened.

EDIT: And is the other one underneath the one you solder to the same? Because this one doesn‘t look good too so i would change both
Just have a check that the ruined top pad isn't going to ground. If it is, then it's used for filtering and you can omit it as the bottom pad would still have power. If it isn't going to ground, then you are going to have to flip the board over.
Looking at it from a picture, there seems to be two testpoints nearby underneath if you flip the board over. Check one of them are 3v. I could help you but I don't have a removed motherboard with me :(

EDIT: just read that you have buzzed it out and it is indeed going to ground. Lucky! So it seems it is used for filtering or smoothing. You could leave it out but the power supply would be less smooth. Will it cause problems? Maybe, maybe not.

You could fit the trinket to the remaining good bottom pad as per the install instructions and when it comes to the capacitor that is missing, fit it to the trinket instead! Cheeky way of doing the job but it will work. The 3v we solder to on the trinket goes to the trinket LDO regulator. Remove the regulator as we don't use it anyway and fit the 4.7 uF ceramic cap there going to ground.
 
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mattytrog

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Thanks to both!
Alright, because picture 2 gnd point is nearer so I would use that.

For the rcm strap point for picture 2, it is the left pad of the orange line you draw right? Because I saw that alternate points to solder from other pics not in this thread is in on the underside of the mobo and you gotta bridge 2 components.

Yes the left pad.

Shit. Double posted. Sorry double posted police!
 

subcon959

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I'm having a heck of a time getting the trinket into bootloader mode. Any tips?

I read a few pages back that you just have to be in the home screen and connect to pc and press reset twice?
 

mattytrog

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I'm having a heck of a time getting the trinket into bootloader mode. Any tips?

I read a few pages back that you just have to be in the home screen and connect to pc and press reset twice?

It is a pain in the rear. If you can see the light for the trinket then its all about timing. Alternative is to power externally. Thats the only caveat with the whole operation :(
 

mattytrog

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I can't see the light unfortunately, but what is the correct timing supposed to be?

The way I do it and it seems to work...

1) Disable AutoRCM or just boot to OFW
2) Remove left joycon (not sure why but this seems to make a difference)
3) Let switch boot
4) once in home screen, press back panel twice
5) Upload what you need to to TRINKETBOOT, then fully reboot switch
6) Get into RCM manually and select AutoRCM if you disabled it.

Works for me. Not sure about removing the left joycon though. Maybe it was a fluke and I`ve turned it into a habit. Maybe something to do with it sensing 1.8v from one joycon, so looking for the other keeping trinket on for longer?
 

a7mag3ddon

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I got mine today, theres already files on CUIRCUITPY drive, do I delete them or just add to them from the zip file I downloaded.
 

mattytrog

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I got mine today, theres already files on CUIRCUITPY drive, do I delete them or just add to them from the zip file I downloaded.

Double press reset to get into bootloader first.

The drive you need is TRINKETBOOT. Delete/backup if you wish. It is circuitpy software. Not required. Drag and drop new files there. Or just overwrite.
 

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ok so i installed autorcm and powered off the switch at 100% battery, when i woke up the system was kinda hot and battery was at 70% so sadly yeah, the switch wont turn off with autorcm installed :(
 

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ok so i installed autorcm and powered off the switch at 100% battery, when i woke up the system was kinda hot and battery was at 70% so sadly yeah, the switch wont turn off with autorcm installed :(

Very strange... What method did you follow? What straps have you connected and to where? Every switch I have done it is working fine... Puzzled!

EDIT:::

Gemma M0 files added to OP btw everyone if needed...

DOUBLE EDIT::: If you are using Hekate, I had a similar problem. See OP for details.
 
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a7mag3ddon

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Double press reset to get into bootloader first.

The drive you need is TRINKETBOOT. Delete/backup if you wish. It is circuitpy software. Not required. Drag and drop new files there. Or just overwrite.
Thanks for that, when I double tap I don't get trinket boot but work PC might be blocking. I only get the circuitpy drive.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
 

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