THANK YOU for the close up pictures. What size resister do you have on pin 33? Also where did you buy it? And lastly when you push the birghtness switch with the resistor does it go from full bright to less bright? Thanks
THANK YOU for the close up pictures. What size resister do you have on pin 33? Also where did you buy it? And lastly when you push the birghtness switch with the resistor does it go from full bright to less bright? Thanks
I used a 420R
I used a 430R 0805 SMD type resister, I borrowed it from work. They are easily available on Ebay but you might have to buy a 100 of them but they are really cheap. A quick search brings up lots.
Yes, adding the resister on pin 33 makes it so that the screen dims or full brightness. People adding screens to the AGB-001 should also add a 12v step up to achieve maximum brightness, soldering to DA1 is not really good enough.
I'm lucky to have access to a good Metcal solder station and a Microscope, so it makes things easier for me.
Got a few close up's from under the scope.
This is the where I cut the track to pin 34. I used a good scalpel and small screwdriver to scrape it clean.
A close up of pins 34 and 33 on the right. I think the pitch between the contacts is 0.5mm. I had pin 33 off and on a few times so it's not the best of my soldering and it melted off the insulation a bit. But it does the job. Some people have said to lift the pin 34 instead of cutting the track. I don't think it possible due to the construction of the connector.
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I found this pic on aliexpress they sell a small 12v step up converter for the GBA SP to power the lcd.
I don't understand what the extra resister and the removal of C40 is for? Does anybody have any ideas?? I brought a couple of them but I have no more Sp's and screens to try this mod on.
I made a quick drawing of the board.
Last edited by Bazahazano,
I really want to do this because I have a spare AGS-001 mobo without a screen but I'm debating about putting in the "dim" part, connecting a resistor from pin 33 to ground. I would say my soldering skills are decent but I wouldn't say good and I've never soldered between .5mm connections. Do you have any advice for me? I was thinking about taking my solder and putting just a bit on my wires and then put the wire right on top of the pin and just tap it enough to get it to melt and stick to the pin. I was also so thinking to avoid getting solder from shorting pins was putting electrical tape on the other pins while soldering onto the I was working with.
Also what wire gauge did you recommend? I was planning on using 20.
I used single core 30AWG wire with a 0.25mm² CSA. Lightly tin your wire and then do as you have said. If your only doing pin 34 you could try placing it to the left-hand side to make it slightly easier. On full brightness I have had well over 6 hours of play time so not too sure if it's worth doing, but it's good that it can work. If you do get a short between pins you can use solder wick or keep trying to wipe it off with a clean tip.
At work I do some hand soldering and rework so I have a bit of experience. If you take your time and be patient it will work out fine.
Look forward to seeing your results. It's really worth doing
Last edited by Bazahazano,
i also have the old board with no trace. can i get few more details on how it without cutting the trace. i see there are 2 contacts behind the screen. should cut the ribbon cable going to it and then connect the power cable to the contact. thanks for any help.
Last edited by onni,
Check out the photo in the last post on page 3 from JeffTheNerd.
That is what you need to do to the ribbon on the back of the screen the two pads at the bottom are the 0v and 12v connections for the backlight. Cutting the lifted ribbon would work but it would be safer to tape it over to insulate it. Then you will have the option to put it back if needed.
Hope this helps.
Yes that will work and will be less detuctive than cutting the ribbon. Hope it goes well
Just remembered i'd seen some good pictures of the process here https://www.retromodding.com/blogs/tutorials/voltage-regulator-connection-guide
Last edited by Bazahazano,
Hope I'm not breaking the rules with this, if I am sorry Mods.
I went to ebay and looked for a top rated seller in the states found this: www (D0T) ebay (D0T) com/itm/PHILIPS-RC12H-Thick-Film-Chip-Resistor-430-Ohm-1-0805-2012-SMD-NEW-Qty-50/192259131518
I googled PHILIPS RC12H hoping to at least find an image of it but I found the datasheet it didn't provide an image. Is this the resistor I need? Also I have access to pretty much an unlimited supply of 22AWG. I'm assuming I would be fine using it but my knowledge regarding resistors/transistors/soldering/etc.. is very limited and it's pretty much all been by my experience. So I just wanted to get a double check, I should be fine with 22 gauged wire right?
Also, sorry for all the noobish questions. Seriously though, I really appreciate you helping me out.
Search this on ebay "430R 0805 SMD"
I used single core 30awg with a 0.25 diameter witch is around the same as the pins on the display connector. 22awg may be too thick to easily use.
Search this on ebay "0.25mm 30AWG"
Hope this helps
If you only cut the trace there then 12v would also go into pin 31. It may damage the screen. I don't know if anybody knows what pin 31 is for, it won't have been designed to take 12v. The easiest way is to add the 12v on your board would be to directly solder to the pad at the back of the screen. The other alternative would be to de-solder the connector and cut the trace underneath and then replace it.
It's may be stupid but when you solder directly the Vout of the polulu to the left pin of the backside of the screen, you feed the screen with 12V, right?
Because I already remove the pin 34 of the connector and solder the Vout of the polulu on left pin of the screen. It works but when I try to close the shell, the backlight of the screen switch off. It like there is a shortcut when I push on the connector. I also try to cut the first pist of the ribbon cable to make sure that the pist will be cut, but nothing better, same issue.
My previous idea of cutting the pist on the picture was to be sure that the pin 34 (and obviously the pin 31) would be cut like it is on the other board revision (arzi84's first post)
I'm not sure what is wrong maybe damage to the ribbon cable? Perhaps a wire elsewhere is shorting out when pressed by the case?It's may be stupid but when you solder directly the Vout of the polulu to the left pin of the backside of the screen, you feed the screen with 12V, right?
Because I already remove the pin 34 of the connector and solder the Vout of the polulu on left pin of the screen. It works but when I try to close the shell, the backlight of the screen switch off. It like there is a shortcut when I push on the connector. I also try to cut the first pist of the ribbon cable to make sure that the pist will be cut, but nothing better, same issue.
My previous idea of cutting the pist on the picture was to be sure that the pin 34 (and obviously the pin 31) would be cut like it is on the other board revision (arzi84's first post)
I have not worked on that board version so I can only guess. Did you isolate the 12v board? I used tape underneath mine to stop it shorting to the place I mounted it.
Yes I isolate the 12V board.
there is obviously a shortcut somewhere.
But If I cut the trace (red one) on the picture . It will be like the other revision board when the trace of Pin34 is cut, no?
this mod is really bad implemented ....battery drain is so crazy....combined with an EZflash IV .....only 1 hour of autonomy....
...probably i will sell my SP modded, not really practical as handheld
greetings
...probably i will sell my SP modded, not really practical as handheld
greetings
maybe try cutting the trace on pin 31. if it don't work. u can resolder it back. only do it if good at soldering and trace cutting etc
Last edited by onni,
I have had almost 6 hours from mine with an Ez Flash IV so it's not too bad. Perhaps your battery needs replacing.
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But what is pin 31 for? My guess is that it powers the lcd part of the screen.
what model you have, old or SP? im using a older NDS battery and red ligth on 30 min ....in any case, im waiting for a new NDS Battery for replace it
greetings
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