Homebrew Tried to hardmod, now 3DS won't power on unless plugged into AC adapter.

[grahamvinyl]

I was getting an error message when trying to Flash the modified nand.bin to my 3DS, and got the impression from looking online that it could be a bad solder joint.

Here's where I screwed up: when trying to fix things, I had a blob of solder hit another area of the motherboard. Obviously I tried to clean it all up. After, I just disconnected the wires I had connected to hardmod, to see if any major damage had been done.

Unfortunately, now it doesn't turn on unless it's connected to the power cord. I did a battery test, and the battery still has full power, so that's not the problem.

How can I go about troubleshooting this problem? I have included 2 photos of the motherboard, where I got in there with a soldering iron. Do any of these areas that look messed up have influence over the battery?

 

[donneee]

if we had schematics this wouldn't be so hard.

i work on cell phones and other handhelds so i can try to give you some advise. i've even fixed quite a few 3ds as well, and i also am planning to do a hardmod myself for a friend.

i'm prolly going to need HQ photos of where your battery's connection starts to where it leads up to. i don't technically know what they're called. this is micro soldering, a territory i'm not really familiar with but i do know basic TS and how to fix more simple problems.

the way i'd trouble shoot this is to see if anything that is leading to the battery has been damaged. check caps, transistors, anything really that looks like it has been melted, joined together with heat, or missing. if you have another 3ds, you could compare with that. if the PCB has been damaged that's gonna be hard to fix without jerry rigging it to hell.

i'll try to help you as much as long as it's within my knowledge.

 

[gamesquest1]

there is a fuse by the battery connector, I had a console that was doing the same thing g once and iirc bridging/replacing that fuse fixed it, obviously replacing would be preferable but if you tore pads already I do think think you would have the ability to replace it whilst bridging it as a botch job fix should be much easier for a beginner at soldering

 

[grahamvinyl]

the way i'd trouble shoot this is to see if anything that is leading to the battery has been damaged. check caps, transistors, anything really that looks like it has been melted, joined together with heat, or missing. if you have another 3ds, you could compare with that. if the PCB has been damaged that's gonna be hard to fix without jerry rigging it to hell.

The only areas that look damaged whatsoever are the areas where I got in there with my soldering iron. You can see them in the 2 photos I included: the connectors you attach to when hardmodding (1st pic), and C147-C150 (2nd pic). I really appreciate you offering to help. I think I'll look to bridge the fuse that gamesquest1 mentioned is located close to the battery.

 

[gamesquest1]

if it helps here is the fuse location

 

[grahamvinyl]

there is a fuse by the battery connector, I had a console that was doing the same thing g once and iirc bridging/replacing that fuse fixed it, obviously replacing would be preferable but if you tore pads already I do think think you would have the ability to replace it whilst bridging it as a botch job fix should be much easier for a beginner at soldering

That actually seems to make the most sense right now. Before noticing the blob of solder, I put the battery pack back in and tried to turn it on. If that blob caused a short, it makes sense that the fuse would be blown. Is it pretty easy to tell which component is the fuse by the battery connector?

Also, I'm not familiar with the phrase "tore pads already." What's that mean? Thanks!

 

[gamesquest1]

That actually seems to make the most sense right now. Before noticing the blob of solder, I put the battery pack back in and tried to turn it on. If that blob caused a short, it makes sense that the fuse would be blown. Is it pretty easy to tell which component is the fuse by the battery connector?

Also, I'm not familiar with the phrase "tore pads already." What's that mean? Thanks!

tore pads means you already ripped off solder pads trying to hard mod. ...which generally suggests your not very experienced at soldering and soldering surface mounted component's will probably be out of your skill set

and I already ninja'd the fuse location request

 

[munchy_cool]

this thread has pic in first post showing a tore pad

https://gbatemp.net/threads/o3ds-xl-can-i-hardmod.455191/

 

[grahamvinyl]

if it helps here is the fuse location

You read my mind!

Also, is the torn pad you're talking about the top solder point I made in the top picture? Or are there more and I just don't have the eye to see it?

For bridging the fuse, I'm assuming it would be smartest to leave the fuse in place and just run a short wire from one side to the other on top of it?

 

[grahamvinyl]

Okay, update here: it was the fuse!!! You're a life-saver gamesquest1! I heated it off, and just use a tinned wire to bridge the gap. It powers on normally now.

Last question: Does tearing the pad mean that I can not reattempt a hardmod? Is there now nowhere to attach that wire?

 

[donneee]

tearing the solder pad doesn't necessarily mean that. if you know how to scrape off the green pcb, which i'd advised not doing, unless you know for sure you will scrape off just enough to expose the proper connection underneath, it's hard to with this particular board. Though i haven't researched which contacts you need to jerry rig wires to, so this would also help me as well xD

umm i guess if you can post a picture of the area your working with for the hardmod, anyone that has posted in the thread can/will clearly see if you've gone pass the point of failure or not. (a current picture if you worked on it again)


PS flux is your best friend. infact, nc-559-v2 is going to be my best friend when i find a cheaper supplier.

 

[gamesquest1]

Okay, update here: it was the fuse!!! You're a life-saver gamesquest1! I heated it off, and just use a tinned wire to bridge the gap. It powers on normally now.

Last question: Does tearing the pad mean that I can not reattempt a hardmod? Is there now nowhere to attach that wire?

you can try, but it will be much harder than the normal solder pad, here is a alt point

that's the left most point on the little resistor array

 

[grahamvinyl]

Awesome tip. When retrying the hardmod, I tore the pad for CLK (bottom connection point), as well (damn these shaky hands!). Is there a secondary connection point for that as well?

 

[dubbz82]

...and this, boys and girls, is why if you have ANY doubt in your own skill, you should send it off to someone that doesn't to get it hardmodded.

 

[grahamvinyl]

But then I wouldn't have this learning experience. Any pointers with a secondary CLK point?

 

[munchy_cool]

But then I wouldn't have this learning experience. Any pointers with a secondary CLK point?

you may want check with pbanj_ ..

https://www.reddit.com/user/pbanj_

He is very helpful ..

 

[munchy_cool]

But then I wouldn't have this learning experience. Any pointers with a secondary CLK point?

you will find alt clk in this thread ..

http://gbatemp.net/threads/tutorial...ing-2ds-3ds-3ds-xl-n3ds-n3ds-xl.414498/#newxl

 

[gamesquest1]

there is no known alt clk point for the o3ds xl the trace goes directly under the nand so the only known alt is to scrape away the pcb coating and solder directly to the trace

 

[grahamvinyl]

Thanks, all. I did end up scraping it and was able to connect that way. I really appreciate the help!!

 

[119880114]

@gamesquest1
Hard downgrade after my new 3ds ll can not charge up
Can you help me？