I came here to ask a quick question about how exactly the 3ds slider/parallax barrier works on the top screen; i.e. when you slide it up and down do both the left/right images have to be re-rendered, or is the parallax just increase so the two images are shifted further apart creating an illusion of more depth. If the latter is true, then it might mean I can use my expertise to work with it. There is surprisingly little information on how exactly the 3ds screen technology works.
It's quite simple and akin to the plastic
"3D pictures" you see on for example post cards. Unlike most LCD's, the 3DS LCD has rectangular pixels rather than square ones. This can be seen under a microscope.
Now, imagine the parallax barrier as a set of slits. The slits move along the screen, across the pixels - their sides reflect light created by the pixels at pre-set angles. Depending on the angle, the FOV changes, increasing the perceived depth of the picture. The two images generated by the system are interlaced - when the parallax slits move across the screen, the
"strips" of each image become either wider or narrower, again causing a change in the perceived depth. That's really there is to it.
EDIT: Apparently those
"slits" are generated by a secondary LCD panel stuck above the main one as well as a set of
"lens-like" panels, photo further in the thread.
I didn’t come into this thread trying to show off about my expertise, or extort money out of anyone for testing. I presumed that this kind of thing had been done before, and was giving experts on this forum some background information to help me out, with the presumption that someone had managed to emulate the 3DS’s OS and firmware on a desktop. I had no idea until someone kindly pm’d me that ROMs didn’t even exist for the 3DS (Kudos to Nintendo, that’s impressive for a 2 year old console).
Nobody has managed to successfuly emulate the 3DS yet.
If you’re looking to be some kind of Poirot or Sherlock figure for the forums that’s brilliant, but I really don’t like being labelled an enemy/liar when I simply come here looking for some answers. I mentioned PAL because I’m based in the UK and some portable devices sometimes include different hardware to their US counterparts. It was wrong of me to use this I apologise for making this mistake in terminology. I am frankly amazed that me mentioning the word ‘solder’ is some kind of alarm bell, as if it’s a one off non-skill used to make an LED light up once in second grade.
Portable devices in the UK may very well have slightly different hardware than devices from other countries, but never in reference to the signal used unless they connect to a television set.
A few people are also acting as if I’d claimed to make some miraculous internally upscaled anti-aliased 3ds emulator, this is merely the beginning stages of a pet project that inevitably will also be done much better by someone incredibly more competent than me in the next 18 months. Unless I’ve done something completely wrong, I’ve been able to intermittantly produce (incredibly dark purple and glitchy) 1600x480 images, comprising of the two images side by side. If people want incrementle updates on what I’m doing that’s fine, and I’ll try and provide some schematics, but please don’t take out pitchforks on me when this isn’t/wasn’t even my initial intention.
I'd love to see that in action if it's true, but I will remain sceptical. The 3DS hardware may very well render at varied resolutions, but the end result after the LCD signal goes through scaling is always 2x 400x240.