Hacking LT+ 2.0 Is Out.

godsakes

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*just to make it complete updating through these new dashes requires some fiddling that earlier updates did not. First you have to drop back to a stock firmware for the drive (if your drive had multiple original firmwares of the same base type- the 7 series liteon for example it does not matter what one of those you use), allow it to update (if you are offline I would use a USB drive with the update on) to the new stock firmware as well as dashboard, make sure it boots up and then flash it with a new hacked firmware.
Fast, do you mean i have to restore the stock firmware before updating the dash (i can understand in cases where a non-Liteon drive has been spoofed to be a Liteon)? but if it's a Liteon drive with hacked Liteon firmware, surely the new dash will just rewrite your firmware to the new version anyway?
 

FAST6191

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No you have to drop back to official, allow it to update (it checks it is original and will error out until it finds it- see some of the reports from the beta that flashed them) and then flash a new firmware if you want. Technically though it has also been recommended practice since the release of LT.

The first version to support it was bundled with official firmwares and they are not that hard to find anyway (when the MRA/pin lift stuff first appeared all the versions was dumped in fairly short order- most liteon hacks only release keys and other choice info rather than a full dump).
 

godsakes

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No you have to drop back to official, allow it to update (it checks it is original and will error out until it finds it- see some of the reports from the beta that flashed them) and then flash a new firmware if you want. Technically though it has also been recommended practice since the release of LT.

The first version to support it was bundled with official firmwares and they are not that hard to find anyway (when the MRA/pin lift stuff first appeared all the versions was dumped in fairly short order- most liteon hacks only release keys and other choice info rather than a full dump).

ah i see, thanks for your quick reply (again) :-)

i don't actually have the original stock firmware... i've just download a pack with them but there's quite a few for the liteon.... pre and post 13141 (whatever that means) and with teh pre version there's 7 variants... what's the best way to work out which version is right for my drive?
 

FAST6191

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13141 (well technically 2.0.13141.0/2.0.13146.0 but everybody ignores the 2.0 and trailing number) was the dash version that changed the dvd firmware and it as good a naming/reference method as was likely to be found so it got adopted.The post version (which is what the update will flash the drive to) is the new version that came with the 13141 updates and newer which you will need if you want to drop down to stock from here on in.

I doubt you would have the stock firmware- the liteon probe method only dumped keys and serials (if any) rather than a complete dump (the method was held back until it was "discovered" as the lifted pin hack which then became the MRA hack and ultimately pogo ma thoin) but that is OK as you only really need the keys. Minor aside for others reading- recall the several times a guide you were told to make sure you can always get the keys/dumps.... I hope you have them now for where pre LT firmwares would cough up keys by asking LT and beyond will not (it was part of the move towards greater stealth) meaning if you lack the keys and are on LT you get to do mra/pogo ma thoin or glitch attack to run xell and get keys (either there and then or to CPU key to the rest pull from the NAND).

The various versions of the pre 13141 7 series liteon firmwares- although it got called the 7 series liteon there were various sub revisions within that for whatever reason but they never changed the top sticker or blocked the probe hack so most were not even aware of it. As for what one to use it does not matter at all as far as I am aware (I looked it up when it all first hit and most people that I would have looked to said no worries) so flash your keys to whatever pre 13141 stock 7 series firmware you like (or 8 or 9 if you have one of those drives), flash that, do the update on the 360, build a new firmware with the new LT versions that support it and flash that to your drive.
 
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godsakes

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13141 (well technically 2.0.13141.0/2.0.13146.0 but everybody ignores the 2.0 and trailing number) was the dash version that changed the dvd firmware and it as good a naming/reference method as was likely to be found so it got adopted.The post version (which is what the update will flash the drive to) is the new version that came with the 13141 updates and newer which you will need if you want to drop down to stock from here on in.
i see the pre 13141 is the original stock version(s) and the post 13141 is the one which comes with the new dash (with XGD3 protection)

The various versions of the pre 13141 7 series liteon firmwares- although it got called the 7 series liteon there were various sub revisions within that for whatever reason but they never changed the top sticker or blocked the probe hack so most were not even aware of it. As for what one to use it does not matter at all as far as I am aware (I looked it up when it all first hit and most people that I would have looked to said no worries) so flash your keys to whatever pre 13141 stock 7 series firmware you like (or 8 or 9 if you have one of those drives), flash that, do the update on the 360, build a new firmware with the new LT versions that support it and flash that to your drive.

okay so any pre 13141 liteon firmware will work on mine for the purpose of updating the dash... can the 360 use a USB card reader + SD card to install the update? (i don't have a pen drive)

Re the cracked post 13141 firmware... the pack i've downloaded has a ton of files just want to check which is a right version.... is it the LTPlus-025-v2.0.bin file?

Thanks again
 

FAST6191

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Pretty much although XDG3 is not so much protection as a new format that allows more space on the disc.

I would match the firmware to the big revision- theoretically it should not matter with liteons and you can flash a 7 series with a 9 series (certainly LT was based on a 9 series dump) but for the sake of scrolling up.....

The original 360 liteon is the Lite-On DG-16D2S but if you grab the FW LT+ V1.92 Pack it will have it among those.

LTPlus-025-v2.0.bin refers to the firmware on the drive not being 7,8,8v2 or 9 series any more but 02510C so yes that is the case.

If in doubt at present the slims have liteons with numbers 9504, 0272, 0225, 1071 and 0401 (also they are a new version entirely called DG-16D4S).

Card reader should be fine although I have heard of some having issues with some multireaders that try to spawn many drive letters (try it and if it fails then find a proper USB drive or another reader).
 

godsakes

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Hi Fast

I've finally gotten around to trying to do the update and already I'm stumbling on the 1st hurdle...

using firmtool (v1.3.1) I've been trying to make a customised stock & LTplus2 firmware but i'm getting the following error message:

"no valid version found"

Any ideas?

EDIT nevermind managed to get the equivalent firmtool feature to work in jungleflasher
 

codezer0

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One Question regarding these XGD3 games.

Simply... any way of verifying their contents as of yet? Even though my Lite-On (in my 360) and my BenQ (0800) are both flashed to handle XGD3 backups, I've yet to find one (for testing purposes, obviously) that ABGX will even recognize, much less test. And according to the site, I have the latest version of ABGX installed already, so I'm currently stumped. I've been doing pretty well thus far; it'd be foolish of me to go trying to play XGD3 games without making sure they're okay after all.
 

Zaertix

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The games are ripped by 0800 v3 drives, which rips the full content. The games are slowly being verified by ABGX at this time, we just don't have a way to verify them ourselves. They are legit 100% rips and if you burn them 100% with an iHas Lite on drive, you will be fine for the most part.

If you burn truncated and go online, you will most likely be banned sooner than with a 100% burn.
 

IronMask

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Zaertix is right, you will most likely get banned with the truncate method. As for ABGx they are working on it very hard. I have been messing with these firmwares and modding Xboxes for awhile now and I can tell you that your best bet for burning these games (xgd3) is to get the iXtreme burning software and a compatible burner (iHas) to burn these games so you have a less chance of being banned if you go live.
 

Nujui

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I'm still waiting for the Hitachi release.

Of all the drives my 360 had to have, it had to be that one :P. Easy to mod, but takes forever for the fw to come out.
 

IronMask

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I'm still waiting for the Hitachi release.

Of all the drives my 360 had to have, it had to be that one :P. Easy to mod, but takes forever for the fw to come out.
Patience my child, C4EVA is working his arse off on these firmwares! I believe he is finished just testing to make sure it works when you do get to flash your hitachi!

For those wanting to know what he's up to you can always find out the status by visiting this site. http://c4evaspeaks.com/
 

codezer0

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I'm just hoping that we will soon be able to start burning these XGD3 games properly on other drives. Looking now, I can get an iHAS drive on Newegg fairly cheaply, but no way of verifying that it is a supported chipset to use for the purpose. Not to mention, doesn't make much sense to buy another DVD burner when I already have one BenQ (0800 mode) and a still-working DVD burner here.
 

431unknown

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I'm just hoping that we will soon be able to start burning these XGD3 games properly on other drives. Looking now, I can get an iHAS drive on Newegg fairly cheaply, but no way of verifying that it is a supported chipset to use for the purpose. Not to mention, doesn't make much sense to buy another DVD burner when I already have one BenQ (0800 mode) and a still-working DVD burner here.

I had bought 2 of the baseline models from newegg and can say that they are indeed the flashable chipsets.
 

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