Hey guys i bought last week a ps4 for 50€ with a broken hdmi port (2 pins are away)
To hard work to change the hdmiport
https://www.sintech-shop.de/hdmi-buchse-fuer-playstation-4/a-9132/
Plz only buy the orginal hdmiport ...
not every connector is working on the ps4
many people have buyed hdmi smd female connector on amazon and all people write (dont buy it no function)
I open the console and become dirt and dust like in 8years old laptops....... i realize that i have to clean it everyyear..
So what i have too do to fix the broken pins ?
Right! I cut a hdmi cable and search the 2 right cable to make a bypass
,and solder it on the hdmiport direct before the 2 broken pins
I opened the hdmi port to see big enough soldering points
Dont forget new thermal compound
I make with a little srew driver the hole a littlebit bigger for the 2 cables
Costs: ps4 50€
Hdmicable 3€
Thermal compound 5€
Networkcable 2€
Hdmi-clutch 3€(to protect the hmdi-cable thats soldered on)
My frend have better soldering skills and comming in a few hours
I will update this threath
Any questions?
Ps: when you have pins broken on the other side then you cant solder it in the hdmi port but i found out you can solder it here too but small soldering points too
This is the other boardsite direct under the hdmi port you have to desolder the shield before you see the solderingpoints from Playstation 4 Chip MN86471A HDMI Transmitter they are connectet to the hdmiport
To hard work to change the hdmiport
https://www.sintech-shop.de/hdmi-buchse-fuer-playstation-4/a-9132/
Plz only buy the orginal hdmiport ...
not every connector is working on the ps4
many people have buyed hdmi smd female connector on amazon and all people write (dont buy it no function)
I open the console and become dirt and dust like in 8years old laptops....... i realize that i have to clean it everyyear..
So what i have too do to fix the broken pins ?
Right! I cut a hdmi cable and search the 2 right cable to make a bypass
I opened the hdmi port to see big enough soldering points
Dont forget new thermal compound
I make with a little srew driver the hole a littlebit bigger for the 2 cables
Costs: ps4 50€
Hdmicable 3€
Thermal compound 5€
Networkcable 2€
Hdmi-clutch 3€(to protect the hmdi-cable thats soldered on)
My frend have better soldering skills and comming in a few hours
I will update this threath
Any questions?
Ps: when you have pins broken on the other side then you cant solder it in the hdmi port but i found out you can solder it here too but small soldering points too
This is the other boardsite direct under the hdmi port you have to desolder the shield before you see the solderingpoints from Playstation 4 Chip MN86471A HDMI Transmitter they are connectet to the hdmiport
i think i make for this better a new post..How to fix a pin thats bent like mine pin 3 from the left side
View attachment 73572
1:buy clue
2:use a small screwdriver to do the pin in the right position
do a littlebit clue of the driver go with the driver behind the pin
3:use a other small screwdriver to press the pin in the right position
4:wait
5:use a knife an go a little bit over the pin remove the unnecessary clue
6:connect a hdmi cable and measuring from the right point on the mainboard from the hdmi-port, to the right point on the other end from the hdmicable (TV side)
in lack of a suitable part, I'd have bought one of these: http://neotechbangladesh.com/wp-con...-to-female-extension-cable-e1409219559770.jpg
Cut off the male part, directly solder the cables on the board and then enjoy a new, extended external HDMI port With the massive advantage that you can always replace the cable if you need a longer one or if something goes wrong with the current one.
Soo update: 2 cable are soldered and isolated with glueView attachment 73606
Will Update When the clue is hard.. Tomorow
so 12 hours later and i hate clue ...cant wait and its not complete hard
Muhahahaha its worked wonderfull with a litllebit alluminium as radiationsshieldView attachment 73662
640gb seagate worked too
wait of a good price from a ps4 controller, and then i hope so we can play backups in the future...
The solder mask in this case is the shiny coloured top layer (usually green or blue but can be any number of other colours) of the PCB that most commercial boards have, it stops solder sticking to it and means it tends to only go on the pins. If you do something with a homebrew PCB (or veroboard/stripboard) it will likely not have it though.
Remove the old port, clean it up with solder braid. After that take a well tip soldering iron (for best results, any iron can do drag soldering) and run a ball of solder along the pins of the new port after it has been placed on the board. The solder mask should mean it only goes on the pins and sticks it down. You might have to clean up a bridged connection (where you would go across the pins on the initial pass this tends to want to go with the pins) or if one gets missed then sort that but it is a very effective way to do relatively fine pitch surface mount soldering with only a soldering iron.
Hot air or IR, a sheet/stencil like the image linked, solder paste in a syringe and other such gear is nicer but drag soldering is still effective. Many times if I have to fix a microUSB port or something I will not feel like busting out the hot air and instead just do that.
Videos
First part is air but the second part is drag soldering
Last edited by loler55,